Oh, I know what's happening now... When high beam is on (red-black provides12V and red-yellow grounds the HB filament), the HB and LB filaments are connected to each other at pin 3. The filaments have very low resistance so the Pin 85 of relay still sees ground!
Can't think of a workaround now...

The red-back will always have 12V when headlights are on. The stalk / dimmer switch selects which filament gets the ground, the LB or HB.

 

Well, even though I haven't been able to get this working as I'd like, I appreciate your time and efforts helping me think this through. At least the fog lights come on with the headlights. Shoot me if they don't go off when the high beams come on. I don't think any officers will ticket me for that and I don't think it's a big deal. I'll live with this setup as is. :-)

Here's what I've been withholding: I have a second set of lights installed (driving lights), but not wired up. I was hoping to have these ones automatically come on when the high beams come on. Obviously that will not be possible. My second most preferable option is to have them wired...
Now I echo these sentiments also. I'll be leaving the fog lights as they are now. But the driving lights I'll put on a switch.

Thanks for your help, guys!

 

Come to think of it, stock headlight wiring is flawed. Clean, Robust, plug-and-play and inexpensive fix would be an H4 conversion harness (search "H4 harness conversion").
Once you do the conversion, You can do exactly what you want:
Fogs on with Low-Beams ONLY
Driving lights on with High-beam ONLY.
There would be no more bleeding "ground" through bulb filament.
You wire lights to back of bulb connector same way a I drew.

 

Thanks, but I'm done spending money on this. I got a wife who spends enough money. I'm stuck with the light setup I have... for a while anyway.

 

LOL! No more Christmas shopping for you?
Want my Trucklites LED, too, but that would have to wait until I get a new job

 

A visual of what I'm looking to do… Visuals are helpful. Maybe somebody on this forum has found a way to do this that doesn't involve me spending more money?

 

Upon having a second look at the schematic, saw that my theory of grounding through bulb filament is incorrect. Wanna double-check your wiring? Did you wire pins 85 and 86 directly to wires behind the bulb connector? Post a pic?

 

Yes, I wired directly to the those wires. Wired exactly as you said. Here's pics, but not sure how helpful these will be since you can't see my wiring. I don't want to pull out the battery for the 8th time. :-)

 

I just picked up this switch, but I don't know how to wire it in. I see 4 wires. One for the ground. One to slot 86 on the relay. And one to a 12v supply. Right? But where does the 4th one go? This is per Hella's instructions for THEIR aftermarket switch. But since I'm using a factory Toyota switch how do I know which wires on the pigtail to connect to? :-) All expertise is appreciated.

Here's what I'm shooting for: This switch will be used with the driving lights (green circles in the image I already posted). The 12v supply I will tap will probably be the headlights. I've given up on the low beam:high beam thing.

 

That's what a multimeter is for (even if you HAVE the instructions, you'll still check it).

Are you sure (or do you know at all if) this is a lighted switch? Your diagram calls for a SPST (single-pole, single throw) switch. I'm guessing you have a SPDT switch with an incandescent (not polarized) lamp that shares one of the switch conductors. You can tell which pair is the lamp; it should be "around" 20-40 ohms, and not change with switch position. Then just work out which pairs open and close with the switch actuation.

 

Having spent a lot of time pouring through Toyota EWDs, the W-B (solid White with a Black stripe) wires are typically tied directly to ground. I would assume one grounds the led/bulb in the switch and the other grounds the switched circuit.

Ground those 2 wires, and apply 12V to each of the wires and see what happens when you activate or de-activate the switch, a multi-meter will help.

 

You guys are talking beyond me. I'm not the proud owner of a multimeter. I wish I knew which color wires needed to be connected to what. I can't find appropriate schematics online, and even if I could find them, I can't read "electrical talk."

Ideally, this is the information I need:
1. White w/black stripe wire goes to...
2. Green wire connects to...
3. Purple wire connects to...
4. Orange/Peach wire connects to...

I have no clue here. I only know that I need a wire connected to the relay, ground, 12v power, and maybe dash lights or something else. I can understand that. Looks like I'll have to connect stuff up and see what happens... sans multimeter.

I appreciate the advice, fellas! If anyone else has expertise I'd be happy to listen to it!

Looks like this diagram could be helpful to me, even if the colors are different.

 

If he guesses correctly and hooks up to a 12v lamp, then the lamp will light and all is good. More likely, he'll connect 12v to two switch contacts, and when they close the battery will try to put 100amps through those itty-bitty wires. I just hope you're not holding the switch in your hand when that happens.

No excuse for that. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-90899.html Not to be unnecessarily harsh, but no one has any business messing with electrical items without some sort of multimeter. You can get hurt, start a fire, fry your whole electrical system ...

Ideally, I need a solid gold toilet. If we knew what those color wires did with that switch, someone could tell you which ones match to your diagram. But those colors are not standard. I really doubt anyone can tell anything from a list of colors.

But not to worry, all you need is a ... (yup!) ... multimeter. Or maybe a friend with a multimeter.

When you get your multimeter, this may help you get started: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Media/Supra/...otaTech/h4.pdf

 

Understood. And I'm not trying to mess with electrical items. I know of the dangers, but appreciate the words of caution. I mean, that's why I'm posting here and hoping someone can help me out. :-)

Haha! And I want a red one made by Ferrari. But up to now they're not manufacturing them. I'd settle for solid gold.

I hear ya. I am hoping for the opposite. We're in the internet age and I'm hoping somebody out there knows this information or has had this same issue and knows the answer. That's why I've posted as much information and pics as I can.

No multimeter, but I own something that looks like this thing:

 

That will tell you something (very crudely) about whether there is voltage. But it won't help you (without a bit of extra work) to learn anything about resistance. Which is all you really want to know. (And even then, only in the most trivial sense, open v. shorted.)

So spring for the 6 bucks. You'll be (very) glad you did.