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How to get better fuel mileage

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Old 11-28-2011 | 08:51 PM
  #21  
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I found my 22Re got better MPGs with 33" tires and 5.29 gears than it does now with 4.88s. 22RE peak torque is around 2800-3000 RPM and if you can stay in/above that range, I think it does fairly well on mileage.

Another thing that can help in some situations is an air/fuel meter. You can see when the engine is running in the closed loop mode vs. in open loop mode. Seeing that closed loop has the ECU regulating the air/fuel ratio it likely is getting the best mileage, since in open loop mode, the meter will flop over to full rich. I find this is handy where you might be trying to decide between 2 gears for a given stretch of road. Sometimes it'll be a higher gear/lower RPM that will stay closed loop, other times a lower gear/higher RPM. In closed loop mode, the meter will swing back and forth lean/rich every second or so.
Old 11-28-2011 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by fork
***

edit: regarding weight, the difference in fuel economy between unweighted and having a 235lb dirtbike, all my riding gear and tools, and the 45lb carrier on the bumper of my 4runner is marginal at best... under a mile per gallon, and I have numbers to back that up if you want them. the biggest contributing factor is how far my foot is into the pedal and for how long.
funny that. if i unload the 450+ lbs of tools and stuff from the back of my 88 4runner i get about 2-3 mpgs more cause my foot isn't in it as far when empty as when full

Last edited by 4wd4fun; 11-28-2011 at 10:30 PM.
Old 11-29-2011 | 03:13 AM
  #23  
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Just do as our wonderful (not) president tells us to do. Get your free tire pressure gauge and keep the tire pressure at 32 psi. What a f ing joke he is.
Old 11-29-2011 | 03:28 AM
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My hot rod granny says, get there as fast as you can. That way the engine runs for less time.
Old 11-29-2011 | 02:11 PM
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From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
Another thing that can help in some situations is an air/fuel meter. You can see when the engine is running in the closed loop mode vs. in open loop mode. Seeing that closed loop has the ECU regulating the air/fuel ratio it likely is getting the best mileage, since in open loop mode, the meter will flop over to full rich. I find this is handy where you might be trying to decide between 2 gears for a given stretch of road. Sometimes it'll be a higher gear/lower RPM that will stay closed loop, other times a lower gear/higher RPM. In closed loop mode, the meter will swing back and forth lean/rich every second or so.

Air/fuel gauge? Never see one of those. How does it work and were can you get them.

Could you also explain a little more about the ECU modes. Got me curious.
Old 11-29-2011 | 02:18 PM
  #26  
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From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
coast with the clutch in when possible (driving in neutral is illegal in some places)
Huh? No way

Thats like saying you can't wear green socks.
Old 11-29-2011 | 02:18 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ThatGuy1295
Air/fuel gauge? Never see one of those. How does it work and were can you get them.

Could you also explain a little more about the ECU modes. Got me curious.
A/F meter:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...FuelRatioGauge

ECU operation:
- http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf
Old 11-29-2011 | 04:19 PM
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Here in lovely Californy it's illegal to coast or be in between gears for longer than shift requirements(but gettn' caught is something else, right?) Has anyone seen an actual difference with an air intake versus replacement aftermarket style - preferrably K&N? People also like to say these engines like to rev(4 cylinders) but it seems like that just makes the gas go down, I have a fresh new engine with approx. 8,000 miles on her and get only about 20 mpg with full exhaust and header, gonna be purchasing the intake from LC engineering in the next day or two so we'll see
Old 11-29-2011 | 04:34 PM
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I maybe wrong, but I believe the no coasting laws were made before synchronizers were used in manuel transmissions. If you coasted (down hill) out of gear the engine would be hard to match the transmission speed causing a lost of control, plus back then brakes were inferior and faded much easier without the engine helping. I don't think anyone would know or care if you were in gear or not with a modern vehicle, unless it is a semi.

Coasting with the clutch disengaged would cause a lot of wear on the throwout bearing.

Last edited by sechott; 11-29-2011 at 04:54 PM.
Old 11-29-2011 | 06:11 PM
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From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
Kinda what I was thinking, just without the facts. Thought that would be a little ridiculous these days.

And coasting with the clutch in could cause clutch wear.
Or throwout bearing as mentioned above.
Old 11-29-2011 | 06:20 PM
  #31  
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From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
Not trying to go off topic hear but "downshifting"

Ive seen a lot of people who shift thru all the gears and then shift back down thru all the gears every time they accel and decal. Downshifting is for big hills, and towing.
After all brake pads are cheap, a transmission is $$. Why double the wear on the syncros and other transmission parts to save on a 20 dollar part that takes an hour to change.

Not to mention the ease of just throwing it in neutral and using the brakes.

Back on topic, I'm sure that by downshifting your using more fuel.
Your forcing the engine to suck in more air then at idle, the ecu compensates for that extra air in all circumstance's to maintan proper air/fuel mix, as we all know.
If it didn't it would backfire every 2 seconds as your coasting at 2500rpms like a Nissan(POS).
Old 11-29-2011 | 06:27 PM
  #32  
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From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
Here in lovely Californy it's illegal to coast or be in between gears for longer than shift requirements(but gettn' caught is something else, right?) Has anyone seen an actual difference with an air intake versus replacement aftermarket style - preferrably K&N? People also like to say these engines like to rev(4 cylinders) but it seems like that just makes the gas go down, I have a fresh new engine with approx. 8,000 miles on her and get only about 20 mpg with full exhaust and header, gonna be purchasing the intake from LC engineering in the next day or two so we'll see
K&N filter adds a little more air but also more fuel depending on driving habits. I personally haven't noticed MPG difference but the truck does seem a little more peppy with the K&N.

I think the filter just allows more potential flow, driving with WOT is obviously going to yield bad MPGs but with normal driving a little more response shouldn't hurt your milage.
Old 11-29-2011 | 07:01 PM
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it's definitely illegal to coast out of gear here in Hawai'i. a friend of mine failed his driving test a few years ago for doing exactly that. I agree with ThatGuy1295 though, i'd much rather replace brakes than a transmission/motor/etc

FWIW i'm averaging 20.6mpg since september (40/60 city/highway) with a 22re at 0.5mm over, 5spd with a 261c/k&n/header/2.25" exhaust on 305/70r16 KM1's with 4.88's on a bracket lift. this average includes having all the added weight on the back for 2-4 days of the week. i've never driven a stock 22re-powered vehicle so i have no clue what baseline mileage is or should be, but this is the best i've gotten out of the 3 22re's i've owned. ymmv
Old 11-29-2011 | 07:27 PM
  #34  
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From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
thats good mpgs's.

4.88's with 305 thats 35's right?
Old 11-29-2011 | 07:31 PM
  #35  
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From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
I'm about 19mpg with 33's 4.56's, with 3.4 V6
I imagine with proper gearing the 22re would get better milage.
Old 11-29-2011 | 07:41 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by fork
edit: regarding weight, the difference in fuel economy between unweighted and having a 235lb dirtbike, all my riding gear and tools, and the 45lb carrier on the bumper of my 4runner is marginal at best... under a mile per gallon, and I have numbers to back that up if you want them. the biggest contributing factor is how far my foot is into the pedal and for how long.
Your kinda making my point for me.

If your vehicle weighs less then you will be in the gas less given the same amount of HP.

Here's a 60 page report detailing the effects of weight on fuel economy for various weight classes of vehicles from econo boxes to large SUV.
http://aluminumintransportation.org/...th%20cover.pdf

2 huge factors in efficiency are aerodynamics and rolling resistance.
Aerodynamics are hard to change on our trucks, short of slamming it and putting gurney flaps on the roof and diverter guides in front of the tires were stuck with rolling resistance.




.

Last edited by SoCal4Running; 11-29-2011 at 07:55 PM.
Old 11-29-2011 | 07:45 PM
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Just so you all know, the ecu cuts fuel when you are "geared down" or "downshifting"… If the engine is doing the braking there is ZERO fuel being used.
Old 11-30-2011 | 04:47 PM
  #38  
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From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
Good to know

No fuel or just not anymore then at idle. Because if theres some fuel then there would have to be enough to burn properly with the amount of air being sucked in when your coasting downhill @ 3000rpms or so, right? No fuel would make more sense that way it didn't matter how much air.
Old 11-30-2011 | 07:04 PM
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correct. . . . . remember we have throttle position sensors with an idle circuit. . . . .and coasting in gear is still with throttle CLOSED. air doesnt much get past it. engine braking due to the large amount of VACUUM. HELLO

COASTING OUT OF GEAR IS A SILLY PRACTICE. not sure on our ecu's logorithms, but, i know in newer systems, the ecu will COMPLETELY cut fuel with throttle closed, and enough vehicle speed sensed to keep the motor operational.
Old 11-30-2011 | 07:45 PM
  #40  
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From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
it is a large amount of vacuum, with a small leak called the idle passage.
drill an 1/8'' hole in your air compressor tank and see what happens, HELLO.


Last edited by ThatGuy1295; 11-30-2011 at 07:47 PM.


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