Home Alignment with pics
05-22-2008, 03:37 AM
#41
Contributing Member
05-22-2008, 05:49 AM
#42
When I first started out, I worked in tire shops for a number of years as a mechanic. I've aligned more cars than I care to remember.
Most of what I'm reading here is pretty good advice for a DIY alignment. I must admit, I was a little confused by the string method of toe adjustment, but it looks like an ok method. I've used the scribed line in paint method a lot on big trucks, and it works like a champ for measuring toe.
Camber is the easiest to measure. Caster is almost impossible to measure accurately without turntables. (you take several camber measurements with the tires turned in different directions and calculate). As the OP stated though, really the important part is not having a huge difference from one side to the other.
Out of spec toe wears tires fastest, followed by incorrect camber. Caster affects tracking and uneven caster will cause the vehicle to pull. I may be having a brainfart hear, but I think it will pull to the side with the least positive caster.
For the guys having a hard time explaining to the alignment tech about the cams: Go somewhere else! Cams are the absolute easiest adjusters known to the alignment world. I came up when there were still a lot of cars using shims on the upper control arms to adjust camber and caster, and I gotta say....cams are the shiznit.
Most of what I'm reading here is pretty good advice for a DIY alignment. I must admit, I was a little confused by the string method of toe adjustment, but it looks like an ok method. I've used the scribed line in paint method a lot on big trucks, and it works like a champ for measuring toe.
Camber is the easiest to measure. Caster is almost impossible to measure accurately without turntables. (you take several camber measurements with the tires turned in different directions and calculate). As the OP stated though, really the important part is not having a huge difference from one side to the other.
Out of spec toe wears tires fastest, followed by incorrect camber. Caster affects tracking and uneven caster will cause the vehicle to pull. I may be having a brainfart hear, but I think it will pull to the side with the least positive caster.
For the guys having a hard time explaining to the alignment tech about the cams: Go somewhere else! Cams are the absolute easiest adjusters known to the alignment world. I came up when there were still a lot of cars using shims on the upper control arms to adjust camber and caster, and I gotta say....cams are the shiznit.
Last edited by zlathim; 05-22-2008 at 05:52 AM.
05-22-2008, 06:37 AM
#43
Contributing Member
Extra Bump for this thread.
05-22-2008, 09:22 AM
#45
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Hey Dale (MtnGoat), thanks for posting the pic. You may also want to mark up the image to show the part that is the bracket lift. Most people won't have one. Some may be a little confused by that. Just a thought...
12-23-2008, 12:48 AM
#46
Its in the pic...
The lower A arm has TWO adjusting points; front and rear
By varying these (front / rear) the caster and camber can be affected.
Most people can figure out that if they dial BOTH the front and rear "out" (that is the hole is on the cam is on the "in" side) that you have effectivley "lengthend" the lower A arm and thus increase the "negative" camber.
What people dont realize is that the dialing the rear cam "in" and the front cam "out" you add caster...
I could never get one alignment shop to understand that...
The lower A arm has TWO adjusting points; front and rear
By varying these (front / rear) the caster and camber can be affected.
Most people can figure out that if they dial BOTH the front and rear "out" (that is the hole is on the cam is on the "in" side) that you have effectivley "lengthend" the lower A arm and thus increase the "negative" camber.
What people dont realize is that the dialing the rear cam "in" and the front cam "out" you add caster...
I could never get one alignment shop to understand that...
Here's how I understand the need for alignment after BJ spacer:
- LCA is at a steeper angle tha UCA thus you have to re-establish negative camber by turning the front and rear cam bolts equal amounts
- This slightly increases front track width, so you need to lessen the amount of toe-in by adjusting the tie rod ends equal amounts.
- This is all done with weight on the tires, right?
Last edited by Matt16; 12-23-2008 at 01:34 AM.
12-23-2008, 06:24 AM
#47
Contributing Member
Could someone explain this one in terms of moving the front and rear of the A arm inwards and outwards?
Here's how I understand the need for alignment after BJ spacer:
Here's how I understand the need for alignment after BJ spacer:
- LCA is at a steeper angle tha UCA thus you have to re-establish negative camber by turning the front and rear cam bolts equal amounts
- This slightly increases front track width, so you need to lessen the amount of toe-in by adjusting the tie rod ends equal amounts.
- This is all done with weight on the tires, right?
I thought ewong did a great job of explaining the caster adjustment (except I think he got it backwards, moving the rear out and the front in would make a positive caster angle) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle
Maybe you are missing the fact that the LCA cam adjusters move the LCA in and out in 2 slots, one in the front and one in the back? If you remove the big cam washers you'll see the slots, it helps me to visualize the slots when making adjustments and just ignore the markings on the cam washers.
Last edited by mt_goat; 12-23-2008 at 06:36 AM.
12-23-2008, 11:14 AM
#49
Contributing Member
12-24-2008, 01:09 AM
#50
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