Home Alignment with pics
#21
That would be 0" inches toe-in(out) if the track width is the same fr/rr and the string is just touching all surfaces. If the string isn't touching the rear of the front tires that's toe-out, no toe-out. Gotta have no toe (0" toe-in/out), or no more than .125" toe-in MAX. Once you have them squared by the string method, to get accurate toe-in if desired, another measurement can be taken from the center of the tread, mid tire height, between the front of the front tires. This is where I employ the "redneck" tape measure trick. It's all I use. I take the measurement at the front, then at the rear from the middle of the tread, mid tire height between the front tires. No differerence is 0" toe(in/out), closer in the front equals the exact toe-in measurement. All this done under the proper alignment parameters, level ground, 1/2 tank gas, etc. For example, on my truck the "magic" number is 60.5", if that's what I get when measured from mid-tread/mid tire height between both the front and rear of the tires that's 0" toe-in. If I get 60.6" measuring behind the tires then I'll have 60.4" when measured in the front of the tires, or exactly .10" toe-in.
Last edited by MudHippy; 05-09-2007 at 09:48 PM.
#22
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Thread Starter
I suggest to all that are having trouble visualizing the toe setting per string method to just get a string are run it around the front wheels to the rear.
Take the string and see how parallel your front wheels are to the rear wheels right now. Measure the distances between the rear wheel surfaces and write them down. When your alignment goes out you can reference these figures for your toe specs.
Frank
Take the string and see how parallel your front wheels are to the rear wheels right now. Measure the distances between the rear wheel surfaces and write them down. When your alignment goes out you can reference these figures for your toe specs.
Frank
#23
Contributing Member
Its in the pic...
The lower A arm has TWO adjusting points; front and rear
By varying these (front / rear) the caster and camber can be affected.
Most people can figure out that if they dial BOTH the front and rear "out" (that is the hole is on the cam is on the "in" side) that you have effectivley "lengthend" the lower A arm and thus increase the "negative" camber.
What people dont realize is that the dialing the rear cam "in" and the front cam "out" you add caster...
I could never get one alignment shop to understand that...
The lower A arm has TWO adjusting points; front and rear
By varying these (front / rear) the caster and camber can be affected.
Most people can figure out that if they dial BOTH the front and rear "out" (that is the hole is on the cam is on the "in" side) that you have effectivley "lengthend" the lower A arm and thus increase the "negative" camber.
What people dont realize is that the dialing the rear cam "in" and the front cam "out" you add caster...
I could never get one alignment shop to understand that...
#24
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#25
Contributing Member
That or maybe they want you to think it can't be done so they don't have to do it. I've had them tell me before that it can't be done because there is no adjustment for it. Keep in mind their main goal is to get back on a coffee break.
#26
Contributing Member
I suggest to all that are having trouble visualizing the toe setting per string method to just get a string are run it around the front wheels to the rear.
Take the string and see how parallel your front wheels are to the rear wheels right now. Measure the distances between the rear wheel surfaces and write them down. When your alignment goes out you can reference these figures for your toe specs.
Frank
Take the string and see how parallel your front wheels are to the rear wheels right now. Measure the distances between the rear wheel surfaces and write them down. When your alignment goes out you can reference these figures for your toe specs.
Frank
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...&Number=793177
Last edited by mt_goat; 05-10-2007 at 07:55 AM.
#27
Registered User
Here are some photos showing how to use the techinque that I described to set the toe.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/...steering-2.htm
Fred
http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/...steering-2.htm
Fred
#28
this is a dumb question but you adjust the tire rod while the tires are slightly above the ground or touching the ground?
also adjustment is needed if the steering wheel is not centered while the truck is going straight?
also adjustment is needed if the steering wheel is not centered while the truck is going straight?
#30
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#31
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#32
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Just saved myself $50 last night and my steering wheel is straighter than it was the last time I paid for an alignment. All thanks to this thread and the links in it. It can be a little tricky seeing when the string makes contact with the back of the front tire. You can pluck it like a guitar string and if the vibration is stopped at the back of the front tire, it's making contact.
Replaced the idler arm to get brass bushings on my primary idler arm. Made my front toe out bad. Surprised me how much an idler arm could affect the alignment. Oh, well. I can deal with it now.
Frank, I put new Alcan springs on last Thursday night, and my rig is "stink bugging" now as well. Hope I didn't order too heavy of springs. Does it make any sense that the camber (not caster) would be affected by that? It doesn't to me, but I seem to have a couple of degrees of negative camber (/ \ instead of \ /).
Replaced the idler arm to get brass bushings on my primary idler arm. Made my front toe out bad. Surprised me how much an idler arm could affect the alignment. Oh, well. I can deal with it now.
Frank, I put new Alcan springs on last Thursday night, and my rig is "stink bugging" now as well. Hope I didn't order too heavy of springs. Does it make any sense that the camber (not caster) would be affected by that? It doesn't to me, but I seem to have a couple of degrees of negative camber (/ \ instead of \ /).
Last edited by 86Original; 05-20-2008 at 10:18 AM.
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#36
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Nah, I'm really just kidding ya. Although, there /would/ be beer available if you wanted to stop by. My couple of attempts to do my own alignments have not turned out well, so with a smart fella like yourself walking me through it would be good since I'll probably have to do it again before starting back from Tahoe.
#39
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I think I get how it's done - I'm just having a dummy moment. I've never messed around there much, and I have no idea where the cam bolts are. They must be in the pics posted - but is anyone willing to make me a photoshop arrow???
#40
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