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Hello, I have this truck, manual, v6. I was wondering if someone could help to figure out if there is some wrong configuration with the vacuum hoses. I did valve cover gasket change but now the job is finished idle is acting weird, maybe I am missing some vacuum line. When I start the engine on the morning it goes up to 1500rpm even warm. After driving a couple of miles it drops to below 500rpm. The idle screw is tight so I thought I could be able to tighten the screw but I can't do it anymore. I am posting a couple of pics maybe some can take a look an tell me what is wrong.
There really isn't any way for someone to look at a picture, even a few, and trace out each of your vacuum lines. I can say that the loop in the first picture (right of the orange/black check valve), which connects #5 to #6, shouldn't be there. (Those ports go to the FPR and EGR VSVs). From the factory, the vacuum lines are numbered (eg., #4), and the ones I can see are not in the factory position (though it is possible someone just swapped lines around).
Get yourself a sheet of paper, and write up a complete diagram. Compare it to the sticker under the hood. Then ask questions.
I was comparing against the sticker under the hood but I can't figure out the lines that appear on the second picture, can you point me out how to trace those?
In the 2d picture, the VSVs on the LEFT power the ADD (auto disconnect diff). (Center of 3d pic) They're powered by plain-ole vacuum (from a line labelled #* from the factory), and that line continues to a reservoir under the right fender. They have NOTHING to do with emissions, so probably aren't on the sticker.
The VSVs in the center of 2d pic are PAIR, FPU (Fuel Pressure-up), EGR, and AC (idle-up) from back to front.
have u bled the cooling system properly? there could be an air lock in the throttle body which is giving u grief? had a very similar issue with a different car. easiest way to find a vac leak (not that it helps with routing the vac lines correctly) is to grab a can of carby clean or start-ya-bastard...something like that. spray it around all the vac lines carefully and listen for an increase in idle rpm.
Brand new to the forum and I'm also having trouble with my vacuum hoses (I assume) on my '95 4runner 4x4 5 spd. 3VZE;
I had a full head job done a few months ago, and upon paying $2,400, had that nasty little check engine light come on for the first time since I've owned the runner. After bringing it back to the mechanic 4 times (1 of which was on a tow truck) to have the vacuum lines redone to no avail, I finally gave up and decided to do it myself and I'm regretting it already....I've pulled at least 4 different vacuum diagrams off the internet (re-routed the vacuum hoses myself 10 times using said diagrams), called multiple mechanics, trolled this forum for tips and pictures, and the devil-light persists. (A mechanic told me the code it was giving was "EGR Fault", but I've tested EGR and it is functioning properly) Every picture/diagram I see looks different than mine in some way or another, and every one of them has different lines plugged or omitted.
All of this said, there does not seem to be any other symptoms associate with a vacuum leak (no rough/high/low idle, pinging, loss of power, etc.). The truck idles happily at 750 RPM, has more power than any other 3.0 I've ever driven, and consistently gets 19 mpg all day long. I'm no professional mechanic by a long shot, but I'm also not a muppet when it comes to working on my own vehicles.....this one has me up against a wall though. Any thoughts? Should I just leave it alone and tape over the "Check Engine" light?
Thanks for the input scope103, but I was miraculously able to fish out the problem today! My AC idle up valve was incorrectly hooked up to the PAIR valve, resulting in insufficient vacuum flow to the PAIR/EGR valves. One of those simple fixes that you're too angry about to see clearly.
I thought it ran and idled fine before, but now it's like a brand new truck!
06-09-2016 | 05:48 AM
