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Help.... Replacing upper control arm bushings

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Old 03-12-2017 | 03:27 PM
  #41  
Hugh_Mann's Avatar
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From: BC
Originally Posted by RatLabGuy
In Crawling4Runner's pics above, it looks like he pushed out the one at least on the end opposite he nut. I don't see how that is possible though?
Also a buddy of mine who is an old Toyota tech thought that outer metal ring the bushing is in actually comes out (e.g. it's a metal cinylinder pressed into a thinner metal ring sleeve in the arm). I'm not sure that's right though? It looks like only the bushing part could come out.

I used the drilling method to get out my LCAs. Messy and time consuming but it worked. I hear you on scoring the cross shaft though, but it's pretty cold here still and I don't want to torth those things indoors...
​​​​​​It depends what you're doing. If you're installing poly bushings, they don't come with outer sleeves so you want those to stay in the arms. Replacement rubber bushings come with inner and outer sleeves are are fully bonded. Poly bushings "float" in the sleeves on a layer of silicone grease. They also often don't come with inner sleeves so you have to retrieve them from the stock rubber bushings.

As for the UCA, the cross shaft slides through the bushing hole on the end with the single bolt hole. Otherwise there wouldn't be any way to get the cross shaft inside the arm.
Old 03-20-2018 | 09:15 PM
  #42  
RatLabGuy's Avatar
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Thought I might post up something I learned...

When I went to remove the bushing from my UCAs, I discovered that there was a small amount of play between ine inner metal ring and the cross shaft. More than I was comfy with.
I discovered this:
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-RK620680-Control-Joint-Assembly/dp/B009B443JU/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Toyota%7C76&Model= 4Runner%7C1005&Year=1993%7C1993&ie=UTF8&n=15684181 &s=automotive&vehicleId=11&vehicleType=automoti ve
You
can buy complete new MOGG UCAs. at the time they were < $100 each and come with upper ball joints already installed.
And it turns out - they have poly bushings in them!
I weighed them and the new ones are actually heavier than original by about a pound, and look identical. Not flimsy crap like you might expect.

In retrospect, IMO if your looking at replacing the bushings, give this some serious thought. It costs more but after you consider the cost of bushings + ball joints + the pain the buttocks of dealing w/ removing the bushings etc.... not sure its worth it.
Old 07-22-2024 | 06:33 AM
  #43  
Chopped Liver's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2024
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From: Prosper Texas
Originally Posted by Andy A
Hope it helps, they are some tough nuts to crack!!!! Popping the last one did my breaker bar in. :-(


Found 04485-35060 for approx. 104 + ship if I remember correctly.


Cheers
Andy
Andy - I read somewhere that when mounting the control arm that the tab on the anchor should be pointing up. Do you know what they are talking about as far as the TAB goes? I have mine all back together and read this in some notes I made and im worried I don't have them facing the right direction because I don't see a TAB anywhere. Any ideas? (never mind, the tab is on the anchor arm that mounts to the control arm that the torsion arm slides in)....I panicked for a minute...LOL

Last edited by Chopped Liver; 07-22-2024 at 06:44 AM.
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