Help.... Replacing upper control arm bushings
#41
In Crawling4Runner's pics above, it looks like he pushed out the one at least on the end opposite he nut. I don't see how that is possible though?
Also a buddy of mine who is an old Toyota tech thought that outer metal ring the bushing is in actually comes out (e.g. it's a metal cinylinder pressed into a thinner metal ring sleeve in the arm). I'm not sure that's right though? It looks like only the bushing part could come out.
I used the drilling method to get out my LCAs. Messy and time consuming but it worked. I hear you on scoring the cross shaft though, but it's pretty cold here still and I don't want to torth those things indoors...
Also a buddy of mine who is an old Toyota tech thought that outer metal ring the bushing is in actually comes out (e.g. it's a metal cinylinder pressed into a thinner metal ring sleeve in the arm). I'm not sure that's right though? It looks like only the bushing part could come out.
I used the drilling method to get out my LCAs. Messy and time consuming but it worked. I hear you on scoring the cross shaft though, but it's pretty cold here still and I don't want to torth those things indoors...
As for the UCA, the cross shaft slides through the bushing hole on the end with the single bolt hole. Otherwise there wouldn't be any way to get the cross shaft inside the arm.
#42
Thought I might post up something I learned...
When I went to remove the bushing from my UCAs, I discovered that there was a small amount of play between ine inner metal ring and the cross shaft. More than I was comfy with.
I discovered this:
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-RK620680-Control-Joint-Assembly/dp/B009B443JU/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Toyota%7C76&Model= 4Runner%7C1005&Year=1993%7C1993&ie=UTF8&n=15684181 &s=automotive&vehicleId=11&vehicleType=automoti ve
You can buy complete new MOGG UCAs. at the time they were < $100 each and come with upper ball joints already installed.
And it turns out - they have poly bushings in them!
I weighed them and the new ones are actually heavier than original by about a pound, and look identical. Not flimsy crap like you might expect.
In retrospect, IMO if your looking at replacing the bushings, give this some serious thought. It costs more but after you consider the cost of bushings + ball joints + the pain the buttocks of dealing w/ removing the bushings etc.... not sure its worth it.
When I went to remove the bushing from my UCAs, I discovered that there was a small amount of play between ine inner metal ring and the cross shaft. More than I was comfy with.
I discovered this:
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-RK620680-Control-Joint-Assembly/dp/B009B443JU/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Toyota%7C76&Model= 4Runner%7C1005&Year=1993%7C1993&ie=UTF8&n=15684181 &s=automotive&vehicleId=11&vehicleType=automoti ve
You can buy complete new MOGG UCAs. at the time they were < $100 each and come with upper ball joints already installed.
And it turns out - they have poly bushings in them!
I weighed them and the new ones are actually heavier than original by about a pound, and look identical. Not flimsy crap like you might expect.
In retrospect, IMO if your looking at replacing the bushings, give this some serious thought. It costs more but after you consider the cost of bushings + ball joints + the pain the buttocks of dealing w/ removing the bushings etc.... not sure its worth it.
#43
Andy - I read somewhere that when mounting the control arm that the tab on the anchor should be pointing up. Do you know what they are talking about as far as the TAB goes? I have mine all back together and read this in some notes I made and im worried I don't have them facing the right direction because I don't see a TAB anywhere. Any ideas? (never mind, the tab is on the anchor arm that mounts to the control arm that the torsion arm slides in)....I panicked for a minute...LOL
Last edited by Chopped Liver; 07-22-2024 at 06:44 AM.
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