So I have a Weber 32/36 on my 87 pickup, it runs great but takes forever to start when cold. It has to crank over 30 seconds total before firing up. This is just in cool 60* weather. It doesn't have the choke but pumping the gas a time or two doesn't make any difference. It just cranks with no start. Keeping the throttle open a little doesn't help either.

I believe the float level was ok last I check it, any idea what could be causing this? It seems like the carb is flooding the motor out when it sits, but it's not confirmed.

If I run it and turn it off and start it 30 minutes later she fires right up. This only happens when it sits over an hour and longer.

 

You need the choke and it needs to be in working order. Even in warm weather. I have never seen a carb engine that is cold fire up and run without using the choke. what happened to the choke?

 

My drag car fires up no choke at all, I know it's a way different engine and has a big duration cam but a few squirts from the accelerator pump and she fires right up.

The choke was removed from previous owner, but honestly I have never had to use one and Florida never gets super cold.

I gave the carb a super small squirt of starter fluid and she fired right up. Once it starts it runs great.

 

I too live in Florida and both my 32/36 and 38 need the choke to start quickly.

 

Hi, had the same problem on 87 wrangler 6cyl, after installing new Weber. After playing with carb adjustment screws and choke for a few days, reading all the forum threads there are on the internet. Turned out, if I slowly pump the gas pedal for 5-6 times before cranking it with ignition on, it fired up right away, or from a second try. The colder it is, the more pumps I’d need, normally 5-8. I’ve started that Weber in sub zero temps with that technique. Give it a shot

 

There is no needed to "pump the gas" if your choke angle and fast idle cams are working correctly. You should only need to "tap" the throttle to engage the choke plate. Manually loading the motor with fuel means your carburetor is not working correctly or not adjusted correctly.

 

Dang almost 4 years later.

The float bowl would drain fuel somewhere if it sat for an extended period of time. Not sure where it went. But the carb got jetted correctly and ran great, no choke, just had an issue with the fuel disappearing somewhere after a few weeks.

truck has been sold.

 

Maybe, but it runs great after it starts, and no need to pump the gas after the first start of the day. Hope it’ll help at least one other guy out there with this problem. What it really should, is it should’ve come with proper carb from the factory, so you wouldn’t need to replace it with Weber...

 

These Trucks did come with the proper carburetor from the factory.

 

If you do some research about the factory Aisan carburetor you'd learn real quick how advanced they truly are. For example, the Weber doesn't have a High Altitude Compensator, as some models had, nor a Hot Air Intake system to provide for better cold weather driving, nor does it have a Choke Breaker to prevent too rich of a mixture on cold starts. I realize this OEM "system" is difficult to comprehend as I've had my own struggles at trying to figure it out. But once you realize what Toyota was doing in the 1980's, you'll realize just how far advanced they really were for their time. Frankly, I think too many people are removing the best system simply because it needs rebuilding.

 

I agree that the factory Aisan carburetor is pretty advanced. Toyota was "killing two birds with one stone" so to speak. They needed to reduce emissions and also wanted to improve carburetor driveability under a variety of conditions. Much of the "emissions" sub-systems did both.

The thing that makes the Weber enticing is that it is really simple and are pretty easy to get the engine running decent.

The factory Aisan carburetor is much harder to set up if things are all out of whack, and require knowledge of all of the related sub-systems in order for everything to work properly.