Luckily, I haven't had idle issues in a while and mine were related to low coolant or a vacuum issue, can't remember.

I haven't had my low-RPM misfire cold startup in several days, the AFM wasn't fully plugged in so I snugged up that connection...maybe it was my issue. I still take more cranks to start than I used to. My first check for that is to look for a condensation issue in the fuel system, I had frozen lines twice this last winter. Dry Gas needed at every fillup to prevent the issue.


EDIT - Oh and I'm right with you on the swap. I started studying the 3RZ assuming easiest compatibility, but I've been on an SBC kick lately ever since I sat in a crappy fun 327 hot rod last winter. Full 3RZ trucks are hard to find for a good price right now, but I see them now and then...that's probably still the easiest and cleanest way to go but I won't turn down a good 4.3/350 deal if it comes along.

 

My buddy is trying to talk me into om617

So many options!

But I think I will probably end up just trying to fix up the good 'ol 22re More than anything it just sounds like fun!

 

clay,

what's your fuel pressure? i've been down the same path as far as gradually worsening starting issues. changed the pump, FPR, pulse damper, etc. runs well for about a week after install of new parts, then slowly starts to have issues.

finally got tired of guessing what the fuel pressure was, so i added an LCE fuel pressure gauge. takes the guess work right out of it. now i KNOW that my pressure is 0 after it sits for an hour, and prior to starting (key on & jumpered test ports), the pressure only goes to 20 (should be around 33). once it starts, pressure hangs and bounces around 22, runs rough/dies, and then suddenly smooths out, which is when the pressure jumps to a steady 31-32.

there are no obvious leaks in the fuel lines/hard lines/csi/injectors. does not smell rich at all once it starts (unlike when the injectors failed/were failing). i assume that the new parts are just a crapshoot, and that either the pump or FPR (or both) are failing less than 1 month after install.

wally

 

Thanks Wally. I haven't a clue how fuel pressure is doing, and I see there's a lot of value in grabbing that kit. I'm going to rule out vacuum leaks, bad wire connections, coil, and anything else cheaply and then look into that.

The truck did it to me again today at work, and since I was paying attention, I just let it sit there on low low idle misfiring while I poked around under the hood. Very rich smell while doing this. AFM was all the way in so it wasn't that like I previously hoped. Jiggling the coil-to-dist wire made a difference (but it had also been running a minute or so...long enough to snap out of it.). I think my issue started after I did a tune up (Toyota plugs, NGK wires) so I'm going to troubleshoot there and then other free stuff first.

 

Wally- any idea how old your fuel filter is?

Doesn't seem likely that's the problem, but I guess it's possible.

My fuel pressure jumps right up to 31-32 immediately. Up to 40 with low vacuum to the FPR (either by WOT or disabling the FPR vacuum hose). Just like it should.

 

i have a very good idea. it's brand new toyota, and was installed 3 weeks ago. has about 700 miles on it now. replaced the toyota filter that i installed 22K miles earlier. gas tank was new 2 years ago.

like many, i'll solve it eventually.


clay, i'm still running my original toyota plug wires - they're date-stamped 1986. nice strong spark, and no arcing. ima keeping them.

wally

 

I still don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but my symptoms sound just like what you described and they're just getting worse. Nearly couldn't get it started to come to work this morning, and that's after having run it yesterday.

So 3 of us have the same problem, you two have done TONS more troubleshooting and parts swapping than I have. Can we rig up something to hit it with ether to get it going quicker? In a few months the temp is going to drop and if this problem rares its head when we're in the 20's I'll be stuck without a backup like starter fluid.

 

so, since replacing the pump/filter a few weeks ago (right after my post on 6-6-2015), rig has been running well, and keeping pressure where it's supposed to be. maybe i've been getting junk pumps and filters. the filters are toyota, and my most recent pump is a denso unit. we'll see.

wally

 

I now have a Denso pump in hand, ready to install that as soon as I can to see what difference it might make. For now, feathering the throttle slightly makes it start right up and snap out of the misfire condition, but only if you get it right on the first try. If you have to try twice it takes 3 or 4 more attempts to get started.

 

eh, i'm tired of it. back to stumbling & hesitation. my frigging legacy went 297,xxx miles on two fuel filters and original pair of fuel pumps. toyota is POS engineering, with an overblown reputation. i beat the crap out of that legacy, and this toyota is babied, but not reliable. even though the legacy is rusted, and has been dormant for more than two years, i'd trust it more than the 4runner to drive across the country.

 

I am giving up on the 22re, swapping in an om617. I have my adapter plate, and donor car. Doing the swap at the end of July

 

That kept working until it didn't anymore. I think I was slowly fouling the plugs which finally resulted in flooding. I tried grounding the FPU switch as laid out here in The infamous warm start issue. I've had several good starts out of it, looking forward to good long-term results.

 

updated:

replaced my fuel pump, AGAIN. i'm now on my 6th pump in less than 3 years and 40K miles.

the LC engineering pressure gauge worked for about 2 weeks, then failed. they replaced it, and it worked for about 2 weeks, then failed.

that was all last spring/summer. fast-forward. purchased a liquid-filled pressure gauge from northern tool. installed it, and, no surprise, fuel pressure was only reading 18 to 20 psi, even though pump had less than 1k miles on it.

replaced the pump over the weekend with a cheapo, since i got tired of the expensive pumps failing quickly. it worked................for less than 15 seconds before it froze up. good thing i purchased two cheapo pumps. pulled the failed pump (0 miles, obviously, since it worked for 13 seconds), and installed the second new pump (and 6th since i purchased the 4runner in May 2013).

pressure sits at 30 under normal conditions (for now) and jumps to 38 to 40 when i remove the FPR vacuum line (which is what it is supposed to do). we'll see how long it lasts. perhaps the pressure gauge will survive longer than the 2-week lifespan of the LCE gauges, so i can keep tabs on the fuel pressure IF (and likely when) the sputtering/hesitation/bogging returns.

but for today, it ran nicely, the way i'd imagine it is supposed to run.

wally

 

Dang, do you have crud in the bottom of your tank? Seems strange that so many pumps have failed on you. You have the prefilter sock thing on there, right?

 

tank was new two years ago, and is still clean inside (i've seen the inside of this tank plenty of times). each pump has had a sock filter.

as noted in another thread, both the liquid and vapor return lines are clear. some are positing that running the tank low causes the pump to get hot, but i don't believe it works that way. the fuel being pumped is sufficient to cool the pump, and i have not "run out of gas".

wally

 

I might suggest to check, double check, and triple check the electrical lines and connectors going to it. Perhaps it is shorting... possibly with some sort of momentary reverse polarity type of situation caused by vibration that causes the pump motor to fry? Just throwing out ideas.

There is also the fuel pump relay and the circuit opening relay, both of which provide power to the FP if memory serves. However if there were a short, I would think it might be the positive contacting the fuel pump holding bracket... maybe a shoddy connector or gouged wire from a previous installation. Once again just throwing out ideas in case it fails prematurely again.

I hope it doesn't! No fun at all to be dropping mad cash on fuel pumps

 

jennygirl:Pretty amazing thread.

I'm wondering if you modified the ECU connector as instructed in the Toyota Service Bulliten to improve the startability and idle stability after a hot dead soak or an extended dead soak.

Or maybe I missed that part...

The document is here: http://www.toyotapart.com/22R-E,_22R...T-EG011-89.pdf

 

three days into it, and so far, the pump is working properly. system has 28 to 32 psi, and when i remove the vacuum line from the fpr, pressure jumps to 38 to 40.

hopefully will be able to exchange the blown new pump for another to have as a backup.

 

Sounds like a good thing to check. Unfortunately I never got around to finding this gremlin. I pulled the 22re before figuring it out completely. OM617 swap is almost done

 

another pump on the downward spiral. noticed some bog/hesitation yesterday. checked fuel pressure gauge and sure enough, it was low - about 26 psi. removing the regulator vacuum line did not result in a pressure jump. pinching the return line did nothing, either.

virtually the same experience as for four of the previous five pumps. two to three weeks of good operation, and then beginning to fail.

wally