Thanks for checking Terry I really appreciate it! I would try my roommates, but I stole his thermo housing

Mine is chuffing pretty hard out of the valve cover breather next to the oil cap. With the PCV still connected, I pulled the breather hose from the valve cover and felt the air coming out. It felt like a lot- very noticeable. Definitely enough to shoot oil into the intake through the breather and/or PCV.

I didn't test it at the PCV yet. Maybe it chuffs less there with the breather connected and PCV off.

I need to check that all my TDC's are lined up. Maybe it slipped somewhere or wasn't installed properly

 

Leak down and vac testers in the mail. Good thing I worked a few extra days this fall..

I am learning too much to care at this point. Looking back at when I started this thread, I think I have about doubled my knowledge of motors in general and especially 22re. Kinda nuts. I'm going to keep going if y'all don't mind!

A recap of full list of symptoms I'm chasing:
- low idle on warm start
- random subtle miss at warm idle
- oil leak in front
- oil in TB through breather
- oil in intake through PCV

 

Pulled the pcv and breather hoses from the valve cover and put a piece of paper over the hole.

I guess it's not blowing out so much as it's just pushing in and out... The piece of paper stayed. Not so worried about it anymore.

 

I can`t remember have you ever done a compression test ??

Granted it can`t tell between rings and valves but will give you a idea.

My one 22re engine was so loose I could turn it over with my hand on the crank pulley but it keep going for another 2 years.

 

Compression was 171+ on all cylinders and within 7psi.

doing a leak down test tomorrow

 

Progress update

- New pcv grommet from Toyota (LCE grommet had a very loose fit, now super snug!)
- removed charcoal canister because it was serving me no purpose anyway
- denso wires
- deleted PS idle up and idle up valve
- some cleanup

Also some new things since my last pic update, LCE headers and blackmagic fan

491,000 my butt

 

Purty!

What impact, if any, did deleting the PS idle up/idle up valve have?

Laughing at the 491,000 comment. You must be cleaning that engine with a toothbrush. Your pride in ownership is awesome!

 

Haha thank you rw

Not quite a toothbrush, wire brush and occasionally dremel with fine metal brush on it.

As far as the PS idle up thing, I just simply saw it as clutter with the vac hoses crossing the valve cover. I actually just took the next step and relocated the wire to the igniter... Discovered some awesome stuff by the previous owner. Found my first household lamp wire!



The loom material had completely melted around the lamp wire. Also this was completely sopping with oily crap on the inside



Respliced it with good wire and heat shrink, with enough length to route it back along the firewall, leaving a clear view of the valve cover

 

I'm amazed at the junk wiring you and others find at times.

I'll be dropping my Tacoma by your place next summer to get the detail treatment. Seriously, clean work you do.

 

Ha ha ha. Maybe scope can come too and we will double team it!

I drove to dinner across town tonight and just got back. I'm hoping it's not placebo, but I felt a difference in the engine. Seems to have more bite at lower rpms. I almost wonder if that bunk melty wiring to the igniter was the cause of my idle miss and possibly some low end power loss from weakened spark. Seriously, I have not felt it run this smooth ever. Idle was perfect the whole trip!

Even when I started it up again after dinner, normally it would have dropped to 7 or 800 and it fired right up at 950, slowly dropping to 850 where I have it set. Perfection

The true test will be tomorrow. Still not holding my breath, history has taught me that much.

 

The fact it runs at all means you are a favorite of the Yota Gods.

If the 4Runner starts talking to you next don`t be surprised .

With the amount of poor wiring what will you find next??

 

Keep going!! It is nice to have a thread where you can go back and look and see where you were and where you are at. Some of the things I have seen you do, I thought you were experienced at these repairs and then I seen your earlier comments. I like seeing the jump in and get it done attitude.

Huh???...Speaker wire doesn't make good wiring on these trucks? I have seen that too, you will find all kinds of rigging on these trucks. I always check the stereo and trailer wiring on these trucks at that is usually the most botched wiring you will see.

On my builds listed below in my signature, I list on the first page and first post several of the common issues that you will find on these trucks and how to go about fixing them if you run into something that is sure to come along.

You are doing great on getting your runner back up to speed. Great Job!!!

 

Thanks gents! The encouragement is super appreciated

"Get it done attitude" that is so totally me. I tend to alternate interests, and right now it is the truck... Well it has been for a while. Just the other day one of my friends was like, "Wow, your mechanic phase is lasting a little longer than I thought it would". I guess I got pretty hooked on it. I have always been a fan of technical and mechanical things to say the least. This is fun because there is so much of a community behind it, if I were doing this stuff on my own I would have no idea what to do. So many youtube videos, tutorials, and forums dedicated to this rig. For most things all the information is out there already, and then some. It's a trip, really.

I've been reading up a lot on timing, and I think I'm going to try some different stuff tomorrow. I keep thinking that I have no idea what the previous owner has done to this car. I might have aftermarket cams in there, I'd have no idea. Setting it to 8degrees isn't going to hurt anything from what I can see online. I always run 91, too

 

Fingers are crossed that fixing the latest junk wiring is magical on the idle and random stumbles.

 

Me too, it usually only happened during heat soak- which with that melted loom around the ingitor wires, I have high hopes

Forgot to mention I also found a loose crimp for E1 engine ground. Crimped that sucker back up, too.

I should be getting the leakdown tester today in the mail, so I can hopefully rule out other junk. Hopefully the engine passes with flying colors

 

Ran some errands and it did its idle stutter thing again. Then came home and redid the wiring to my AFM. Previously I had used some really small gauge wire and resistance across 1 of the wires was measuring 1.0ohm. Kind of a lot. I replaced it with thicker wire with 0.1ohm. Just took it for a spin and it does seem better.. But that might be because it was a cold startup.

After getting home checked timing and it was good, so I shut it off and waited 15. Starting up I got the low idle again, but at least it was smooth and not jittering at all = so that is good. Used to be whenever I got the low idle it would stumble all over the place.

Also been noticing my brake will kinda "let out" under certain circumstances. It's hard to reproduce. Sometimes I'll be slowly rolling to a stop and loose pressure in the brake booster. Plus if I stomp the brakes repeatedly it drops the idle significantly. Something definitely weird going on there.

 

Master brake cylinder is totally out, pedal only has pressure at the very bottom. Hah.

I have the duralast one from autozone coming in in a few days, and I'm doing brake booster, too. Some funky stuff going on with applying brakes at idle and I want to rule it out. Plus the brake booster housing is ugly, covered in rust from when a previous master cylinder had been leaking onto it.

 

A little update, gapped the plugs to .032 and adjusted base timing to 8deg. AFM spring set 2 clicks richer and AFM idle mixture screw one turn richer. She is idling quite nice and feels more tuned.

I really wanna get a wideband O2, this mixture guessing game is driving me nutso!

I haven't ever felt it idle this smoothly, though! And seat of the pants analysis tells me I have approximately 12% more low end power

 

You are thorough and awesome, but did I just read all of that and not get to the bottom of the hard hot start issue? Several things fixed it temporarily but I thought it still persisted.

Mine is an occasional cold hard start, seems to be getting more frequent as the weather gets warmer. This thread is giving me lots of to-dos. My issue went away since spraying a can of carb cleaner into the running throttle body, but that's only been a few starts to test it so far.

Your coil info and the grounding stuff that helped you get back to one-crank starts is something I'm after too. Mine used to do that, not any more, even with the fuel pump jumped. And I've only had the truck for 1.5 yrs.

What coolant burp method worked best for you? I'm fairly certain I've had bubbles since my timing set job a year ago. I also have to top off coolant about every other week. And oil every week, a lot of which is the rear main seal...which could be because of high crankcase pressure due to blow-by, who knows. Compression has checked good in the past, haven't gotten into leak-down.

I'd rather throw time and funds at swapping the motor for something peppier, but those same time and funds might make me keep fiddling with little stuff like this for quite a while longer (c:

 

Same boat for me, I've been considering 3rz swap for some time now!

I have read about some other people having success with a switch directly controlling the FPU VSV, but I have yet to try it myself. The idea is that the switch disables the vacuum to the FPR which in turn brings fuel pressure up to max when the switch is on. That raises idle.

I had found a similar thing with my fiddlings, doing it the manual way with pulling the vacuum hose off of the FPR (then capping the hose with my thumb) and noticing the idle pop up.

Could be that all along I had a faulty FPU VSV