Grinding In front Wheel Hub
12-21-2008, 02:06 PM
#21
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Yeah, well this isn't the bushings. I'm pretty sure the noise I'm speaking of is the brass spindle sleeve inside the steering knuckle housing the rotating CV shaft. Got to grease that still.
12-21-2008, 02:41 PM
#22
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It's kind gross but heres what i did... I mixed some grease with oil to get a simi thick blend. jack up the wheel from frame. Then draw a straw full of it work it in between wheel hub and axle and blow it in. If it quits for a while then it is the brass bushing....
12-21-2008, 03:12 PM
#23
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mine for some reason has a bit of milky stuff under the cap... it goes away,comes..
it happened right befor i did my tchain, enw cover and gaskets and now it happening again..
god damit
it happened right befor i did my tchain, enw cover and gaskets and now it happening again..
god damit
12-21-2008, 04:16 PM
#24
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My truck's hubs are grinding also when locked and driving in 2WD. Since I do limited 4WD will this cause any damage if I do not fix it until spring?
There does not seem to be any resolution from the above threads-- is this process just a disassemble, clean, lube and reassemble?
Thanks.
There does not seem to be any resolution from the above threads-- is this process just a disassemble, clean, lube and reassemble?
Thanks.
12-21-2008, 07:20 PM
#25
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Those are exactly the bushings we have been referring to ... the brass spindle bushing.
12-23-2008, 02:20 AM
#26
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1) Yep
2) Not sure what you're referring to here. You don't need to remove the wheel bearing nuts - just the circlip on the end of the CV
3) You don't need to remove the balljoint or TRE - just jack the suspension to max compression - I find it easier if you put a jackstand under the opposite side rear so you have something to leverage against.
4) you'll need to undo the 6 bolts on the diff end of the CV. They are studs pressed in from the diff side - only the nut side will turn!
2) Not sure what you're referring to here. You don't need to remove the wheel bearing nuts - just the circlip on the end of the CV
3) You don't need to remove the balljoint or TRE - just jack the suspension to max compression - I find it easier if you put a jackstand under the opposite side rear so you have something to leverage against.
4) you'll need to undo the 6 bolts on the diff end of the CV. They are studs pressed in from the diff side - only the nut side will turn!
12-23-2008, 08:43 AM
#27
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My truck's hubs are grinding also when locked and driving in 2WD. Since I do limited 4WD will this cause any damage if I do not fix it until spring?
There does not seem to be any resolution from the above threads-- is this process just a disassemble, clean, lube and reassemble?
Thanks.
There does not seem to be any resolution from the above threads-- is this process just a disassemble, clean, lube and reassemble?
Thanks.
http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?w3ymjwzkztf here is the manual that will make it easier for you.
about 2.5 hours of total work.
Last edited by RaginYota; 12-23-2008 at 08:48 AM.
12-23-2008, 12:42 PM
#28
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Did you need any special tools (SSTs as the manual calls them)?
Is this like checking the wheel bearing-- if it grinds when you turn right it is the left bushing? From inside my truck I have not been able to pinpoint which side is grinding.
By the way, what causes the grinding? Is the bushing worn? What is actually grinding (driveshaft on the knuckle)?
Thanks.
Is this like checking the wheel bearing-- if it grinds when you turn right it is the left bushing? From inside my truck I have not been able to pinpoint which side is grinding.
By the way, what causes the grinding? Is the bushing worn? What is actually grinding (driveshaft on the knuckle)?
Thanks.
12-23-2008, 01:45 PM
#29
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No, you don't need any SSTs to remove/replace the CV.
You might be able to pinpoint it, but in all likelihood if it's happening on one side, it will probably be happening on the other soon because what has happened is that you have run out of grease in the bushing and now the brass bushing is contacting the CV axle directly, making the noise.
You might be able to pinpoint it, but in all likelihood if it's happening on one side, it will probably be happening on the other soon because what has happened is that you have run out of grease in the bushing and now the brass bushing is contacting the CV axle directly, making the noise.
12-23-2008, 04:41 PM
#30
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Laterz
01-20-2009, 02:51 PM
#31
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its doing it again except its the opposite side... i never greased the bushing on the one side and it quit and now the other side is doing it... when you say the bushing do you mean replacing it or just greasing it? or both?
01-20-2009, 03:11 PM
#32
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lol I am having the same problem I had figured I was going to have to replace the seals on the lockouts and re grease the wheel bearings so I will pay close attention to this as well when I do the rest of it.
02-01-2009, 04:29 PM
#35
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New member here. I put MM hubs on my 94 not long ago. And Im not sure if the noise is the same as what yours sounded like. But here are my symptoms. " I know it has been awhile since this thread was tapped last" ... hubs locked / in 4wd drives normal then all of a sudden a quick low grind "almost sounds like a goose" but I have to be going at least 10 mph. if the noise is going on and I turn hard left it stops and right it get less loud. then Ill put truck in 2wd and hubs locked and the noise persists until disengaged. ? same problem ?
02-02-2009, 04:36 PM
#36
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well I got around to greasing it this weekend was going to repack the bearings but the socket tool I had did not work. after calling every place in town no one had a 2 1/8 socket.
not even SEARS they said Thursday they would have one in.
also putting silicone sealant on the cone washers is a bad idea someone previous to me owning this truck thought it would be a good idea.
grease the bushing sooner then later, the one on my truck is worn pretty good and had a decent amount of play in it after pricing the bushing locally I am going to find a junk yard steering knuckle with better bushings then buying new bushings.
not even SEARS they said Thursday they would have one in.
also putting silicone sealant on the cone washers is a bad idea someone previous to me owning this truck thought it would be a good idea.
grease the bushing sooner then later, the one on my truck is worn pretty good and had a decent amount of play in it after pricing the bushing locally I am going to find a junk yard steering knuckle with better bushings then buying new bushings.
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