gauge cluster help?
11-27-2015 | 07:49 PM
#1
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gauge cluster help?
to start off I have a 88 4runner sr5. with the sr5 cluster. I currently swapped a 96 4.3l chevy in it (converted to carb dont ask why lol). i want to get my gauges to work in the cluster and it stay close to stock and neat looking.
speedometer that's obviously simple.
tachometer and others I need help with.
I have a msd box running my ignition and I have a grey wire from the msd (tach wire) hooked to a external tachometer. it works but I want it to work for my cluster I have looked everywhere to see if anyone had a how to guide but I came up with nothing.
and same for my voltage, oil pressure, and my thermostat. fuel is fine I just need a new float for it to work properly.
if any one has already done it please help me out I'm tired of messing with random wires and gauges all over. I haven't messed with it in awhile and wont be home till 4 month from now to mess with it again. so when I get home I will already know what to do right away with yalls help.
I'm sure I can get the oil pressure one to work if I get a oil pressure sending unit to fit the chevy block.
please chime in on this. ill try to get my wife or buddy to send me better pics of it if i can.
speedometer that's obviously simple.
tachometer and others I need help with.
I have a msd box running my ignition and I have a grey wire from the msd (tach wire) hooked to a external tachometer. it works but I want it to work for my cluster I have looked everywhere to see if anyone had a how to guide but I came up with nothing.
and same for my voltage, oil pressure, and my thermostat. fuel is fine I just need a new float for it to work properly.
if any one has already done it please help me out I'm tired of messing with random wires and gauges all over. I haven't messed with it in awhile and wont be home till 4 month from now to mess with it again. so when I get home I will already know what to do right away with yalls help.
I'm sure I can get the oil pressure one to work if I get a oil pressure sending unit to fit the chevy block.
please chime in on this. ill try to get my wife or buddy to send me better pics of it if i can.
11-30-2015 | 03:02 PM
#2
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From: Saginaw, MN
I have an '87 turbo 4Runner with a '92 4.3 in it...Here's what I found. Might be slightly different for you, but should get you on the right track.
Toyota temp sensor for the gauge threaded right in place of the chevy one on the passenger side head (one on the front of the block is for the ECU).
Oil pressure sensors are all NPT. In stock form, the Chevy one controls the fuel pump, so you will need to keep that. A few minutes in the plumbing isle at the hardware store, and I came up with this:
Now it has both oil pressure sensors.
Volt gauge just reads voltage of the power supply for the cluster.
If your truck was originally a V6, tach should be just hook the signal wire from your ignition box to the Toyota Cluster. If it was originally a 4-cyl, you will have a calibration issue. IIRC there is an adjustment on the analog clusters (look at the 5VZE swap info for that), otherwise you may need a converter like this: http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_tsd/ I've used those in several 6-cyl Subaru swaps. It does NOT work in my 4Runner, but I think that has to do with my digital cluster (I may need their inverter for the 0-5v signal instead of the 0-12v).
Toyota temp sensor for the gauge threaded right in place of the chevy one on the passenger side head (one on the front of the block is for the ECU).
Oil pressure sensors are all NPT. In stock form, the Chevy one controls the fuel pump, so you will need to keep that. A few minutes in the plumbing isle at the hardware store, and I came up with this:
Now it has both oil pressure sensors.
Volt gauge just reads voltage of the power supply for the cluster.
If your truck was originally a V6, tach should be just hook the signal wire from your ignition box to the Toyota Cluster. If it was originally a 4-cyl, you will have a calibration issue. IIRC there is an adjustment on the analog clusters (look at the 5VZE swap info for that), otherwise you may need a converter like this: http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_tsd/ I've used those in several 6-cyl Subaru swaps. It does NOT work in my 4Runner, but I think that has to do with my digital cluster (I may need their inverter for the 0-5v signal instead of the 0-12v).
11-30-2015 | 04:56 PM
#3
Here is how I get my tach to work. Connect a wire to the negative side of the coil.
Starting on my tachometer and what is needed to get the tachometer working.
I then ran a wire to the negative side of the coil, on a carburator coil it is a little different then a standard coil you are most used to seeing. This truck didnt come with the SR5 guage so I added it. If your truck is not Plug and Play like some are, you need to run a wire from the negative side of the coil to the little "p" to make the tach work.
Then what I did so as not to short out the electrical run beside it. I placed a piece of electrical tape over the little "p" and crimped a wire to the smallest connector that I could find.
I used tape for insulation and to make my connection to the "p".
Starting on my tachometer and what is needed to get the tachometer working.
I then ran a wire to the negative side of the coil, on a carburator coil it is a little different then a standard coil you are most used to seeing. This truck didnt come with the SR5 guage so I added it. If your truck is not Plug and Play like some are, you need to run a wire from the negative side of the coil to the little "p" to make the tach work.
Then what I did so as not to short out the electrical run beside it. I placed a piece of electrical tape over the little "p" and crimped a wire to the smallest connector that I could find.
I used tape for insulation and to make my connection to the "p".
12-01-2015 | 02:45 AM
#4
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Numbchux- thanks for the info. i just plan on running the toyota one because i dont have the efi. but great info for when ever i do want to swap over i appreciate it. and the it all looks simple to do.
Terrys87- what can be the worst thing that can happen to the tach if i dont get it adjusted right for voltage just wont operate right? and would it maybe be easier to just get the v6 cluster? the TSD/ATSD is very affordable might consider it if i dont wanna swap out the v6 cluster.
Terrys87- what can be the worst thing that can happen to the tach if i dont get it adjusted right for voltage just wont operate right? and would it maybe be easier to just get the v6 cluster? the TSD/ATSD is very affordable might consider it if i dont wanna swap out the v6 cluster.
12-01-2015 | 07:13 AM
#5
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From: Saginaw, MN
Yea, if you're not running the GM oil pressure switch, you'll just need the adapter bushing (1/8NPT to 1/4NPT, IIRC) to put the toyota sensor in it's place (the sensor will look considerably different if you just have an idiot light, the sensor pictured is for the gauge).
They are both (temp and oil) just a resistance-to-ground signal, which means one wire each.
They are both (temp and oil) just a resistance-to-ground signal, which means one wire each.
12-01-2015 | 07:44 AM
#6
You could try this https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...06/index6.html
Here are the pics:
The adjustment potentiometer:
if you have another tach hooked up that you're using to adjust, you can sneak a thin and long screw driver in there to adjust it (I had to gently push against the pot with the driver to bend it back slightly and seat, but this shouldn't cause any harm.)
if you don't have another tach to adjust by then you can pull it out by removing these 3 screws:
then use your multimeter to measure resistance across these two points:
The V6 was originally setup with a value of 44.9K ohms, I adjusted it to 63.8K ohms. I would recommend people converting a 6cyl cluster to a 4cyl to simply add 20K ohms to whatever they started with.
This cluster came out of a 1992 4Runner Automatic V6 SR5, and I installed it in my 1989 Pikcup 5-speed 22re Deluxe, so considering that, you can make anything work with anything.
---------
I have another problem though, I went to swap out the oil pressure switch and the electrical connector wont work with the new sensor, it's missing the slot to slide on sideways...
so I'll need to find the proper connector before I'll have a working pressure gauge. In the mean time I've just left it disconnected and taped off so I don't damage the new gauge.
also to go along with that the old sensor required a 27mm socket to remove, the new sensor required a 9/16th open ended wrench to tighten down.
-----------
Oh and alpinexss, I got my cluster right in the marketplace section here, there were at least 5 of them for sale, I got mine from a listing that was a good 6 months old, and I payed way less than similar eBay listings.
I'd rather support other yotatech members anyway.
The adjustment potentiometer:
if you have another tach hooked up that you're using to adjust, you can sneak a thin and long screw driver in there to adjust it (I had to gently push against the pot with the driver to bend it back slightly and seat, but this shouldn't cause any harm.)
if you don't have another tach to adjust by then you can pull it out by removing these 3 screws:
then use your multimeter to measure resistance across these two points:
The V6 was originally setup with a value of 44.9K ohms, I adjusted it to 63.8K ohms. I would recommend people converting a 6cyl cluster to a 4cyl to simply add 20K ohms to whatever they started with.
This cluster came out of a 1992 4Runner Automatic V6 SR5, and I installed it in my 1989 Pikcup 5-speed 22re Deluxe, so considering that, you can make anything work with anything.
---------
I have another problem though, I went to swap out the oil pressure switch and the electrical connector wont work with the new sensor, it's missing the slot to slide on sideways...
so I'll need to find the proper connector before I'll have a working pressure gauge. In the mean time I've just left it disconnected and taped off so I don't damage the new gauge.also to go along with that the old sensor required a 27mm socket to remove, the new sensor required a 9/16th open ended wrench to tighten down.
-----------
Oh and alpinexss, I got my cluster right in the marketplace section here, there were at least 5 of them for sale, I got mine from a listing that was a good 6 months old, and I payed way less than similar eBay listings.
I'd rather support other yotatech members anyway.
Last edited by Terrys87; 12-16-2015 at 04:15 PM.
12-01-2015 | 12:01 PM
#7
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Saginaw, MN
That's exactly what I was referring to.
That adjustment is just a calibration. So yea, if it's not adjusted right, it won't read right.
It's absolutely easier to get a V6 cluster...but since it's identical except for that calibration, many people would rather just spend some time to recalibrate it vs spending the money on a new one (which will either have the wrong odometer reading, or will still require almost all the work to tear down and swap the speedo/odo from your old one). I definitely would have done that if it had been an option, but I wanted to keep the digi cluster.
Terrys87- what can be the worst thing that can happen to the tach if i dont get it adjusted right for voltage just wont operate right? and would it maybe be easier to just get the v6 cluster? the TSD/ATSD is very affordable might consider it if i dont wanna swap out the v6 cluster.
It's absolutely easier to get a V6 cluster...but since it's identical except for that calibration, many people would rather just spend some time to recalibrate it vs spending the money on a new one (which will either have the wrong odometer reading, or will still require almost all the work to tear down and swap the speedo/odo from your old one). I definitely would have done that if it had been an option, but I wanted to keep the digi cluster.
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12-01-2015 | 03:09 PM
#8
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Terrys87- Thanks for the info. took me a minute to reread it and understand what to adjust, i had no idea it was a simple adjustment of a few tiny screws on that plastic piece behind the tachometer.
12-01-2015 | 09:20 PM
#9
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From: San Francisco East Bay
No!
The Toyota oil pressure sensor is 1/4" BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread Tapered). http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/thre...sender.183975/ http://www.autometer.com/1-8-npt-to-...-pressure.html Since they are both tapered, and the pipe size is close, you can screw them together -- almost. An 1/8" NPT is 27 Threads/in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread, an 1/8" BSPT is 28 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe.
If you belong to the Gorilla school of "I don't need a torque wrench!", you can probably mash them together and they won't leak. For a while. But if for some reason you want to screw a 1/8" NPT (are GM sender's really that size?) into a Toyota block, you just use the adaptor from the site above.
The Toyota oil pressure sensor is 1/4" BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread Tapered). http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/thre...sender.183975/ http://www.autometer.com/1-8-npt-to-...-pressure.html Since they are both tapered, and the pipe size is close, you can screw them together -- almost. An 1/8" NPT is 27 Threads/in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread, an 1/8" BSPT is 28 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe.
If you belong to the Gorilla school of "I don't need a torque wrench!", you can probably mash them together and they won't leak. For a while. But if for some reason you want to screw a 1/8" NPT (are GM sender's really that size?) into a Toyota block, you just use the adaptor from the site above.
12-01-2015 | 11:31 PM
#10
I adjusted a V6 tach to a 4 cylinder tach and it was only a quarter of a turn to make it match up with what I needed. I don't know how far off it will be on yours but I would suggest small adjustments to get it to where you want it.
I see you have an 88 tachometer. I cant recall if your cluster has the hash marks or not. If you are going to try and correct the mileage on your odometer, and you have the hash mark tachometer/speedometer, I would suggest NOT pulling the speedometer needle of to correct the mileage. There are actually two different styles of SR5 gauges. The one without the hash marks you can get away with pulling the needle off.
In the Swap thread above, I think further on in that thread, it is mentioned in it and I tried to emphasize not to pull the needle on the hash mark speedometer. Just wanted to make you aware of it just in case.
The hash mark speedometer has splines and the needle is basically melted to the splines. The non hash mark is a pointed stud that the needle will slide off. There is away to disassemble the speedometer without taking the needle off. I am sure it is mentioned in that thread. Also look for a video on Wheelie Pete as I am sure it is there and shows how to do it.
I see you have an 88 tachometer. I cant recall if your cluster has the hash marks or not. If you are going to try and correct the mileage on your odometer, and you have the hash mark tachometer/speedometer, I would suggest NOT pulling the speedometer needle of to correct the mileage. There are actually two different styles of SR5 gauges. The one without the hash marks you can get away with pulling the needle off.
In the Swap thread above, I think further on in that thread, it is mentioned in it and I tried to emphasize not to pull the needle on the hash mark speedometer. Just wanted to make you aware of it just in case.
The hash mark speedometer has splines and the needle is basically melted to the splines. The non hash mark is a pointed stud that the needle will slide off. There is away to disassemble the speedometer without taking the needle off. I am sure it is mentioned in that thread. Also look for a video on Wheelie Pete as I am sure it is there and shows how to do it.
12-02-2015 | 04:25 AM
#11
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terrys87- yeah i have a 88 model. i cant remember if it has the hash marks or not its been awhile lol. but it cable driven and i have no need to adjust it at this time. i got GPS for that for now but as it sits and the last i drove it before the speedometer cable snapped on me it wasn't to far off i thing maybe 5-7 mph off.
12-03-2015 | 12:09 PM
#12
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 580
Likes: 33
From: Saginaw, MN
No!
The Toyota oil pressure sensor is 1/4" BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread Tapered). http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/thre...sender.183975/ http://www.autometer.com/1-8-npt-to-...-pressure.html Since they are both tapered, and the pipe size is close, you can screw them together -- almost. An 1/8" NPT is 27 Threads/in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread, an 1/8" BSPT is 28 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe.
If you belong to the Gorilla school of "I don't need a torque wrench!", you can probably mash them together and they won't leak. For a while. But if for some reason you want to screw a 1/8" NPT (are GM sender's really that size?) into a Toyota block, you just use the adaptor from the site above.
The Toyota oil pressure sensor is 1/4" BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread Tapered). http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/thre...sender.183975/ http://www.autometer.com/1-8-npt-to-...-pressure.html Since they are both tapered, and the pipe size is close, you can screw them together -- almost. An 1/8" NPT is 27 Threads/in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread, an 1/8" BSPT is 28 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe.
If you belong to the Gorilla school of "I don't need a torque wrench!", you can probably mash them together and they won't leak. For a while. But if for some reason you want to screw a 1/8" NPT (are GM sender's really that size?) into a Toyota block, you just use the adaptor from the site above.
GM is 1/4NPT, Toyota is 1/8 BSPT. My Tee fitting is 1/4, and then there's an adapter down to 1/8.
Looks like I should be using one like this:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4936k614/=102y43o
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