nuknuk

After reading some things, I really need to get this engine in time. Then get to testing the EGR system. Also I would love to clean the upper intake as I know there is carbon build up in it, any good ways to go about that? I would like to remove it and clean it good, but how and what to use to clean up in that thing?

Andy A

The carbon buildup can be huge after 100000 - 200000 miles,.when I did my head gasket job at approx. 200000 miles a number of years back I decided to clean the upper intake out. I tackled it with a Drexel, flex shaft, and wire wheels, plus lots of crab cleaner. Also pulled the two end plugs so I could get into the back side. Some of that buildup had to be a 1/2 in thick in spots, especially the main passage which the throttle body attached to.

nuknuk

Yeah this truck has almost 275,000 miles on it. I noticed the carbon buildup when I pulled the cold start valve and the EGR intake tube.

So I guess my plan is to bypass/delete the EGR system to try and see if I can get it to idle, so I can set the timing and then go from there with it.

Trents3.slow

Sounds like a vacuum leak.

Trents3.slow

Double check all vacuum lines and the intake tube that runs to your air filter. Any fresh air being sucked in not metered my your MAF will cause this type of symptom.

86bullet

I,ve been listening in over here and was wondering how all this stuff happened after just changing knock sensor ?Just a thought, start over.Put the old one back in and see what happens.Hey,what do ya have to loose? Or maybe knocked some wire loose changing sensor. I don't know too much about the electrical part of these 'things',but all these guys talking to you trying to help really sound like they know their stuff ! Someone back there told you don't give up, I agree. So far i'm waiting because you/ guessed it I have the same problem.Did all those things from hot wireing the fuel pump to jumping this barn jobbing that,no good so far. I'm not getting any injectors firing.Can not figure it out .Well,I pray you get yours going,and maybe that will help me out with my problem. I gotta have mine.Only vehicle.Three days now. { 86' 22 re }. OK,later nuknuk.

nuknuk

well I know the old knock sensor is bad and the new one is from the dealership and is good due to code being gone. I have basically figured out what has happened, and it has all came down to the timing and my fault of not knowing. See when I had to take the upper and lower intakes off to get to the knock sensor, you also have to remove the upper coolant piece that the radiator hose connects to, and it also acts as a tensioner for the timing belt. So with that piece off the timing belt was very loose and I believe the cam pulleys may have turned on me by working around the engine, and when I slapped everything back together, I didn't even think of lining up the timing marks, so the timing did get out of wack. I wish I was working on the 22re. I have done lots of work on those and even building one on a motor stand. This has been my first 3.0 v6, but I have learned a lot with just this one, lol.

nuknuk

I have a guy that works at the parts store I use, that has a 95 4runner v6 also, that runs great and is one of his daily drivers. So Im going to get his truck next to mine and go over the vacuum lines to make sure mine are all correct and will replace some in question. Also Im going to delete the EGR system.

86bullet

Glad to hear your on the right track. I'm still stuck. I put a noid light on yesterday and no light. I really don't know what else to look for. Does my 8622re have a cam positioning sensor ?,cause I can't find one and do not see one on any wiring diagram .Anyway, I know what I really need-someone who really knows a 22re that lives near Tampa. Does anyone know what can cause no signal to the injectors.Do I really need the circuit opening relay,I have it out and jumped for the fuel pump. Don't know how to check the resistor, igniter, - will you tube those and get back to it.Glad your gaining ground nuknuk.

scope103

The COR is there to save your skin -- literally. If you get in an accident that breaks a fuel line, you want that pump to shut off instantly. With the COR bypassed the pump will just keep running, soaking your vehicle in gasoline while you're lying there.

When using a "noid" light you need to know it's hooked up correctly. Your injectors have one lead (Black-Red) that is 12v constant with key-on; the white lead is grounded by the ECM to open the injector.

86bullet

Thanks. I'm gonna go out in a few, put the COR back in. Last night I put a 12v test light on an injector and it lit on both terminals of the plug !? So that threw me for a loop. I'm gonna use the VOM and really see better about voltage to it .My cold start is working,even though it hase'nt been plugged in in ten years. Put a timing light on it and plugs are firing. She sounds like she wants to start then just dies.I'm not gettin it ! Whatcha think ?

Trents3.slow

Read back a little, someone explains how the fuel injector wiring works. I believe that both terminals at the injector should be powered and the computer makes the ground firing the injector.

If your getting power to the injectors. Are they spraying? If you have fuel and spark maybe your missing the timing.

86bullet

I have 11.78 volts on both terminals on an injector. Whats up with that ? Second-do you know how to check the resistor,it's one of the few things I see in the circuit. A little history : Fuel pump went about a month ago,I replaced it and she ran fine . A little later she conked out again,I cleaned,fine sanded the contacts on COR started and ran again. Days after that conked out again, it was blown fuse for the main relay.Ran again.About a week later this happens,Out my driveway to work and she just flat out quit.No warning,sputter or nothin' just DOA.And here I am. Guessing again. Spark,compression, fuel.What am I missing ? Not like the good old days where things were easy. Oh yeah, my main relay has always been real hot, is that normal ? Also, one more thing .When I scrape or touch the battery terminal to the post it sparks pretty good,I know that's not normal.Anyway., There it is , and that's where I'm at. Somebody please hep me, hep me !

86bullet

How can I tell if their spraying ? I do know the cold start sprays because I can pull that out and watch it. I could maybe try to listen to it with a screwdriver ( or small metal rod I use ) but that may be hard to do with all the noise of it trying to start.I dunno.

Trents3.slow

You can smell it in your exhaust or sometimes your intake. You can also pull plugs and smell them.

86bullet

Thanks.I will get on it again tomorrow after work. This boy has GOT to get some sleep.Good night.

Charchee

Man I'm proud of you for keeping up the fight. You are almost there. At what RPM will it run without dying? If it's low enough, you may be able to read the timing enough to get you a little closer. You may even be able to adjust the idle adjustment screw enough to keep it running while you check it. I can't remember the RPM spec for checking the timing.You may want to look that up. I really feel like you are having a vacuum or unmetered air intake issue though. Good idea on bringing over a good running truck for reference on your plumbing. If you want to post some pics of your vacuum lines, I'd be glad to check your work against mine.

I doubt your EGR is the root cause of your trouble but, if you want to go with the delete, it's pretty easy to do. 90% of it is just making you some cover plates using a egr gasket as a template and then bolting them down over some new gaskets.

On your HOT! exhaust, I know improper timing can cause this as well as a glowing hot Cat.

I would hold off on the EGR and go at it in this order.

Look up the idle RPM spec for your truck.
Look up the RPM spec for checking timing.
Check for vacuum leaks or cracks/loose connections in your air intake system. (This could also include your plenum and throttle body gaskets.)
Try and adjust the idle speed screw and see if you can keep it running at a reasonable idle RPM.
Inspect the cat for signs of overheat after you get done running the engine.
Fool with the EGR is you hit a wall and need something to do.

86bullet

Well I thank all you guys who tried to help me out. I got her running great today ! I think I'll make you try to guess what it was til tomorrow. Hint-it cost me $13.00. Good night everyone be back tomorrow.

Andy A

Glad you were able to figure it out, look forward to what your $13.00 part was!!!

Trents3.slow

Fuse? Relay ? Cap? Rotor? It's gotta be simple! Fuel filter!!! Tell us?!?!?