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Fuel Injector Woes

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Old 02-08-2015, 05:19 PM
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I've got my afm out and got some odd readings. At first, my E2 - Vs was slightly out of range (410 ohms where 400 is max) but I tested again later and it was fine. My E1 - Fc is what is iffy. Closed I am at infinity, open I'm supposed to be at 0 but it is reading 1.5 ohms. All other items are within spec. I even put it in the freezer to test the temperature dependent terminals and it was within range.

Do you guys think my findings are enough to indicate failure? I think the E1 - Fc terminal test is related to the fuel pump circuit which may be why I'm having trouble starting it/having sporadic idle problems?

I also pulled codes and got a 43 "no STA signal to ECU until engine speed reaches 800 rpm with vehicle not moving". I think this might be left over from when my grounds were bad but I'm not 100% on that.

Last edited by Smeddy2; 02-08-2015 at 05:58 PM.
Old 02-08-2015, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Smeddy2
I've got my afm out and got some odd readings. At first, my E2 - Vs was slightly out of range (410 ohms where 400 is max) but I tested again later and it was fine. My E1 - Fc is what is iffy. Closed I am at infinity, open I'm supposed to be at 0 but it is reading 1.5 ohms. All other items are within spec. I even put it in the freezer to test the temperature dependent terminals and it was within range.

Do you guys think my findings are enough to indicate failure? I think the E1 - Fc terminal test is related to the fuel pump circuit which may be why I'm having trouble starting it/having sporadic idle problems?

I also pulled codes and got a 43 "no STA signal to ECU until engine speed reaches 800 rpm with vehicle not moving". I think this might be left over from when my grounds were bad but I'm not 100% on that.
all volt ohm meters have an internal resistance. Put your leads together and see if it reads 0 or 1.5. I believe you will find a reading of 1.5 and that your test is correct.

For example My old good meter read 0. My new cheap meter reads .8 shorted.

Last edited by 92ehatch; 02-08-2015 at 06:20 PM.
Old 02-08-2015, 06:41 PM
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92ehatch you are correct!
Old 02-09-2015, 07:04 PM
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Well I tested the terminals while moving the vane and I did see it go over 1000 ohms in a couple spots (1100-1200) so I ordered a new AFM. I'm hoping this is a step in the right direction.

Next time it's really cold I'm going to check my cold start switch. I also am going to check my readings at the ECU. I suppose I will test the EGR as well to make sure it's not stuck open.
Old 02-20-2015, 06:47 PM
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The new afm (remanufactured) came in and the new one tested out even worse!

I decided to check in on my timing chain noise and it was just like I suspected: completely okay with zero signs of wear.

On the plus side, I check my valve lash and my exhaust valves were so tight there was absolutely no play! Yikes! I set all the lash within spec. I'm letting all the sealant dry tonight and I'll try to start it up tomorrow.

I'm hoping this was the cause of my problems or at the very least, a big part of my problems.
Old 02-21-2015, 01:46 AM
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I would suggest going thru your entire intake system and make sure all the lines, ports, and plenum are free of carbon from the EGR. Give all your sensors a good scrubbing as well since the carbon or hard water build up can effect your sensors. Might be a good idea to grab a few feet of vacuum line and replace them a section at a time. They can leak and get bad too.
Old 02-21-2015, 04:16 PM
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Got everything back together and it started right up! Got the timing and idle readjusted and seems to be back to normal! Time will tell the next time it gets cold out (45 here today).

I guess really tight exhaust valves will cause all sorts of problems!
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