Fuel Filter Woes
#1
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Fuel Filter Woes
Well, I went and got my OEM filter from the stealer - and started to undo the fuel lines and I all but rounded off the connection to the filter. I started with the rear connection and used a regular box wrench the first time and it slipped. So I sprayed blaster all over it and waited a while. I put a flare nut wrench on it and that slipped too. It's starting to get rounded off now
Usually I'd heat it up a bit when I get to this point, but that is probably a pretty bad idea considering what I'm working with - so I'll skip that step... Does anybody have any other ideas? It's dang hard to get to also!
Usually I'd heat it up a bit when I get to this point, but that is probably a pretty bad idea considering what I'm working with - so I'll skip that step... Does anybody have any other ideas? It's dang hard to get to also!
#6
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You could try some of those mini-channel locks since the nut is already boogered up. They are small enough to fit in the tight space; I have some that are like 4" long & they work just like the big ones.....I.E. don't use them backwards & they'll bite good.
#7
I don't know about the V6 either, but would one of these fit in there?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952162000P
I've used them a few times on stripped bolts.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952162000P
I've used them a few times on stripped bolts.
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#8
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I don't know about the V6 either, but would one of these fit in there?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952162000P
I've used them a few times on stripped bolts.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952162000P
I've used them a few times on stripped bolts.
#9
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no on the v6 the t bars are right in the way it took me forever to get mine off go pick up a set of line wrenches they work great for me also pb blaster or wd 40 spray it on till it soaked and come back the next day thats what i did and it worked great
#10
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it took me about 4 hours of fighting in the gravel driveway in the middle of winter changing the filter on the 93 runner Tools: open ended wrench / flare wrench / vice grips / PB Blaster .. and liberal use of "choice" words for the truck.. Good luck with the fight vs the fuel filter kick it once for me when u do get it off of there..
#12
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys... I'll try 'em out. New question - once I finally do get it taken care of; is there any way to replace the fuel line connection - just the sleeve part that screws into the filter?
#13
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you can flare it out like it you did a break line also i believe that they sell fuel line patch kits comes with a few inches of line and all the connections you need all u will need is a break line double flair tool and a break line bender should run you about 60 $ with out the line and connectors
#14
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What brand flare wrenches are you using?
I have used some cheap ones I got from the auto parts store and they rounded the nuts off right away.....
The Craftsman ones are much tighter and work well......
I have used some cheap ones I got from the auto parts store and they rounded the nuts off right away.....
The Craftsman ones are much tighter and work well......
#15
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This is what I'd do to get them off.....
Spray the PB blaster on, set the flare wrench on the line nut, and start tapping on it with a light ball-peen hammer. Keep tapping and tapping, alternating with a spray of blaster, until atleast one side will budge. What you're trying to do here is relieve the surface tension of the metal. Just spraying the lube on and letting it sit a minute or so won't be good enough.
Once you get a side to budge, work on the other. Also, it helps to hold the fuel filter steady with another wrench so it doesn't flex/give while loosening the line.
I did a little novice write-up when I did my first 3.0 filter change. Maybe it will help and give you some ideas.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-novice-90497/
Oh, if both line ends are rounded off, you can pull the cover/mounting bracket off and work with vice-grips. Then, you'll just have to replace the ends with a flare kit as suggested.
Spray the PB blaster on, set the flare wrench on the line nut, and start tapping on it with a light ball-peen hammer. Keep tapping and tapping, alternating with a spray of blaster, until atleast one side will budge. What you're trying to do here is relieve the surface tension of the metal. Just spraying the lube on and letting it sit a minute or so won't be good enough.
Once you get a side to budge, work on the other. Also, it helps to hold the fuel filter steady with another wrench so it doesn't flex/give while loosening the line.
I did a little novice write-up when I did my first 3.0 filter change. Maybe it will help and give you some ideas.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-novice-90497/
Oh, if both line ends are rounded off, you can pull the cover/mounting bracket off and work with vice-grips. Then, you'll just have to replace the ends with a flare kit as suggested.
Last edited by thook; 06-05-2008 at 10:10 PM.
#17
Hi All
Newbie here, this is a great place and I've sucked a lot of good info for new new project 93 3VZ ext cab. I just went through this and found that by removing the clips holding the filter outlet line to the frame, you can move the filter back past the tranny crossmember just enough to get a vise grip on the outlet flare fitting. The hard line joins the soft line by the starter and I disconnected it there. But I think that even without disconnecting it, the soft line will flex enough so you can get the filter back. I even bought a set of metric line wrenches which rounded the fittings off. Good old vise grips to loosen and anti-seize compound to reinstall.
Newbie here, this is a great place and I've sucked a lot of good info for new new project 93 3VZ ext cab. I just went through this and found that by removing the clips holding the filter outlet line to the frame, you can move the filter back past the tranny crossmember just enough to get a vise grip on the outlet flare fitting. The hard line joins the soft line by the starter and I disconnected it there. But I think that even without disconnecting it, the soft line will flex enough so you can get the filter back. I even bought a set of metric line wrenches which rounded the fittings off. Good old vise grips to loosen and anti-seize compound to reinstall.
#18
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I could not get the fuel lines off the filter, took it to a good Toyota mechanic and he could not get them off. He said the lines and filter are original and that the lines and fittings are essentially corroded together, so when you turn the fitting you are torquing the line. I am going to just cut the lines and replace with new sometime this summer.
I priced the fuel lines at the dealer and they were something like $30-40 for what I needed (front and behind the fuel filter).
I priced the fuel lines at the dealer and they were something like $30-40 for what I needed (front and behind the fuel filter).
#19
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I changed mine on the 3.0 not too long ago, and maybe you could try this.
I looked for a picture but I couldn't find one, but its a tool used to open jar caps. Its like a strip of rubber that you can put it around, tighten it, and just let her rip...
I guess it's an idea....
I looked for a picture but I couldn't find one, but its a tool used to open jar caps. Its like a strip of rubber that you can put it around, tighten it, and just let her rip...
I guess it's an idea....
#20
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I don't know about the 3.0 but I know it's not a convenient thing on the 22re. I am having my mechanic buddy put my engine in and while he's got it all apart I definitely plan on having him relocate mine to either the firewall or the pass side fender area. If I was you I'd probably find a way to make that happen once you get it apart because next time you will give yourself a high-five and a 12 pack of beer, and you'll be able to change the fuel filter quicker than you can drink the 12 pack.
Line wrenches are a must. Open end wrenches just don't do it and like you said, usually stuff like that requires a little torch action but probably not a good idea considering what you are doing. I wish I had more help to offer but I just want to say good luck
Line wrenches are a must. Open end wrenches just don't do it and like you said, usually stuff like that requires a little torch action but probably not a good idea considering what you are doing. I wish I had more help to offer but I just want to say good luck
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