fuel filter: how long does it take to change it?
#21
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Location: COTKU,Ontario,Canada
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sounds like you need one of those articulated "wobble" fittings t...
at least yours is sort of seviceable... the 3.0 one is almost impossible to work on... I ended up switching to a GM filter to make it easier...
at least yours is sort of seviceable... the 3.0 one is almost impossible to work on... I ended up switching to a GM filter to make it easier...
#22
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You can try taking the oil filter off to get another angle at it that way. If you can't get enough leverage on the small 12mm wrench, double it up with another.....say a 13mm. Put the box end of the 12mm on the bracket bolt, hook the box end of the 13mm to the open end of the 12mm. That will give you a longer wrench = more leverage. This is where taking off the oil filter comes in handy.
#25
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Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
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DAM I CHANGED IT now my rusty lines are leaking...
this truck is suck a money pit its not funny...
if it wasnt supposed to be my fun truck i would have burned it along time ago
does anywhere sell a complete fuel line kit??
this truck is suck a money pit its not funny...
if it wasnt supposed to be my fun truck i would have burned it along time ago
does anywhere sell a complete fuel line kit??
#26
Contributing Member
are they leaking like a rusted hole in the line, or leaking where they bolt to the filter?
if it's leaking at the filter fittings, did you put all the new copper gaskets in that should have came with the new filter?
in the picture below, the yellow parts are those gaskets; they should be installed like this on BOT SIDES of the filter...
now if it is indeed leaking from a rusted hole in the line, then yes you will need a new line. might be able to get a decent one from a scrap yard, but would probably be better to get something like that from a dealer...
if it's leaking at the filter fittings, did you put all the new copper gaskets in that should have came with the new filter?
in the picture below, the yellow parts are those gaskets; they should be installed like this on BOT SIDES of the filter...
now if it is indeed leaking from a rusted hole in the line, then yes you will need a new line. might be able to get a decent one from a scrap yard, but would probably be better to get something like that from a dealer...
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 09-15-2008 at 02:59 PM.
#28
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well, there's not a hole lot you can do to patch the lines on a fuel injected system... safe ways any way...
I mean, I've seen high pressure fuel lines cut and a double-barbed fitting used and 2 hose clamps on either end, but I WOULD NOT trust it...
I'd fork up the extra dough for the safety and peice of mind with a new hose...
#30
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I have a 91' 22RE and I've changed it a few times so I know what to expect, the first time is always the worse. To prevent a yota bond fire I would suggest disconnecting your battery since your messing with fuel and the starter motor with its contacts is right next to the filter, assuming your setup is the same as mine. I use a 1/4 rathcet with an extension for the mounting bolts and also a flex open end/box gear wrench for the banjo bolts.
#31
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i got it off so now i can do them fast.. you must drop starter.. but now i got a leak at the rubber to metal line.. sucks cause these little trip to the parts store are brutal but you cant move forward without parts....
look like the dealer is my only option for gas lines... goggle isnt much use
look like the dealer is my only option for gas lines... goggle isnt much use
#32
Contributing Member
some things you can get by with aftermarket replacements; shocks, bearings, most motor parts, etc... but if those fail because they were not designed properly to the manufacturers specs (even though they all claim to "meet or exceed OEM equipment"), most of the time they wont, how should I put it, SET YOUR TRUCK ON FIRE...
it's more of a safety thing IMHO...
just my .02
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