My wheel bearings are singing and I can feel them through the steering wheel and floor. I figure I probably have to replace them, rather than just repack them.

I did the rear wheel bearigs last year.

I have auto lockng hubs.

I know I need a 52 mm socket, and grease.

What else do I need, how much time am I looking at, and are there any other things I should be aware of?

If you've done this before, or have valuable info, please chime in.

Thanks.

1994 4Runner 5 speed V6 4x4 auto hubs.

 

Check out the five vids related here. Should be what ur looking for

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbpCU...e_gdata_player

 

i didnt do a wheel bearing replacement but a rotor replacement a while back. 52mm socket was hard to find. 2-3/16 worked well. unfortunately sears was the only place that had it so possibly be prepared to spend 35 bucks on it

my truck had manual hubs so the only other trouble i had was with the cone washers to remove them.

do it by the book and you should be good to go. i would order a couple more of those funny lookin lock-washers that lock that 52mm nut though. they have a small "tit" that locks them to the spindle, and if you accidently turn the washer with the nuts, it shears right off. then you have to try and find it to avoid compromising your new bearings. good luck

 

piece of brass and a B.F.H work well to remove them conical washers.

 

Thanks for the info so far, the weather is supposed to be crummy the next week, so I'll have to delay till probably next weekend. If any one has any helpful tips, please chime in.

 

If you don't have the 54mm socket, order it now. They can be hard to find locally.

 

Change the inner dust seals as well. They're pretty cheap from Rock Auto.

 

Factory Service Manual
www.ncttora.com/fsm

You do NOT have auto hubs. You have ADD.
Lots of good info in this link.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...etails-242653/

54mm socket or 2.125"

You will also need basic hand tools, sockets, etc.

:wabbit2:

 

get bearings,seals,2 3/16 socket,and new lock washers before you even start.conecal washers are not that bad with a brass drift punch and pb blaster and alot of patience. its a dirty job ...but someones gotta do it!

 

I did this a couple weeks ago and it was really not bad at all and didn't take nearly as long as I thought it would. The only problem I had was that the dust seal that is attatched to the metal shield behind whole assembley was half gone but i couldn't find a definate part number on it.

 

Go to marlin crawler and get the front wheel bearing kit. Comes with all the seals, bearings, races, and whashers. They also have the 54mm socket.

I bet your looking at 120 total. One whole day and you should be done if never done it before. A good time to replace the breaks and rotors

 

a 14mm deep socket was the easiest way to get those cone washers out for me. Just a couple taps and they'll come out. Check the FSM. You have to tighten one nut a certain spec, spin the wheel a couple times. loosen and re tighten. Then lock the washer and tighten the second nut to spec. You can get Koyo bearings inner and outer from napa part numbers ATM 943 and 946

 

Yeah, times two on replacing the brakes (if, of course, you didn't recently do that). The rotors notoriously wear unevenly, especially on the inboard side as well as having one or more caliper pistons seized. I'm hopeful you're one of the lucky ones where everything has worn in evenly and no pistons are seized.

I posted about this before; I undid the upper/lower ball joints, steering arms and CV shafts at the diff and pulled the whole front drive units out as assemblies. I serviced everything on the bench and even cleaned and repacked the bronze bushings/needle bearings in the steering knuckles and put everything back together as per the FSM with remanufactured CV assemblies -- on the work bench instead of being crouched over for hours. Not for everyone but I bit the bullet and did everything in one shot because I was sick and tired of constantly pulling the front drive apart for this and that. The only difficult part was heaving those heavy front drive assemblies in and out but it's a good work-out (no need to join a gym).

 

Check on www.rockauto.com and look at this as well:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51830676

 

Just to be clear - 54mm socket or 2 1/8" socket to remove the spindle (bearing preload) lock nuts.

PLEASE do not take a hammer to the side of the hub to 'knock' out the cone washers if they are stubborn. Wayyyy ... The metal on the outside of the hub stud is thin there and will flatten deforming the seat for the cone washer.

Since you are in NorCal, you may not have rust issues for the cone washers. I would thread a nut so that its flush with the hub stud. Then take a brass drift and hit the nut. The cone washers should pop out. Use some anti-sieze when you put them back together.

 

The brass drift will be necessary if you'replacing the races. It's easier to press them out with a hyraulic press, obviously.

Unless they've been dry, the OEM bearings seldom wear much. I put 218k miles on my first set & only replaced them because I was replacing rotors & calipers.