Front Bump Stops?
12-01-2008, 02:38 PM
#22
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I got around to installing the bumpstops a couple of days ago and have been driving on them for a couple of days now. I've noticed a increase in the ride quality of my truck and I am willing to bet it'll be nicer off-road too. I asked my roommate today if he could tell a difference from the passenger seat and he noticed an improvment on the first speed bump we hit. I'd say they're worth the $40. Daystar makes them and they are part of the EVS line of foam products they sell so you could probably source them from somewhere other than that nissan site if you wanted too.
12-01-2008, 02:58 PM
#23
I've thought of placing the bumpstop mounts about an inch higher than stock- that way, you still get the damping effect of an extra inch of rubber, and the travel of low-profile stops.
12-01-2008, 03:01 PM
#24
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defantly something Im gonna look into! But im interested in the drilling holes in the stock bumpstops for now.. A few small holes at first... see what it does.
12-01-2008, 06:18 PM
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If you have ball joint spacers like I do, the extra compression travel gained from low-profile bumpstops can cause your CVs to destroy themselves. The longer stops that I have don't seem to limit travel at all as they compress quite a bit. I think if you have the front end adjusted so the spacers give you extra droop travel you don't need to worry about the extra travel gained from low-profile bumpstops destroying your CVs but don't quote me on that.
12-01-2008, 06:24 PM
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I've watched this thread a bit and it boggles my mind.
You want a progressive rate when the suspension is near bottoming out?
The best solution is a good shock absorber that slows down travel enough, before it even has the chance to bottom out, and keeps it from bottoming out.
After that, a good jounce dampener on the shock is in order.
Then after that- your bump stop is as good as it gets.
What is the point of having (a) shock absorber(s) if your suspension bottom(s) out?
You want a progressive rate when the suspension is near bottoming out?
The best solution is a good shock absorber that slows down travel enough, before it even has the chance to bottom out, and keeps it from bottoming out.
After that, a good jounce dampener on the shock is in order.
Then after that- your bump stop is as good as it gets.
What is the point of having (a) shock absorber(s) if your suspension bottom(s) out?
Last edited by abecedarian; 12-01-2008 at 06:26 PM.
12-01-2008, 06:50 PM
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If you have ball joint spacers like I do, the extra compression travel gained from low-profile bumpstops can cause your CVs to destroy themselves. The longer stops that I have don't seem to limit travel at all as they compress quite a bit. I think if you have the front end adjusted so the spacers give you extra droop travel you don't need to worry about the extra travel gained from low-profile bumpstops destroying your CVs but don't quote me on that.
12-01-2008, 07:08 PM
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hypoid-
consider the suspension as a trapezoid where the upper and lower arms form opposing sides, the pivot points on the frame are the third side and the steering knuckle is the 4th side, opposing the pivot points.
the included side (interior) formed by the upper control arm limits 'droop' due to the stop being below the arm.
the included side (interior) formed by the lower control arm limits 'compression' due to the stop being above the arm
ball joint spacers increase the distance on that 4th side of the trapezoid.
that means that the upper and lower arms can travel farther with the spacer installed than without the spacer before encountering a 'stop'.
ball joint spacers, (at full droop) by themselves, will push the spindle farther down (and in kind push the lower control arm down), causing the outer (and inner) CV joint(s) to experience angles not found on stock suspension.
consider the suspension as a trapezoid where the upper and lower arms form opposing sides, the pivot points on the frame are the third side and the steering knuckle is the 4th side, opposing the pivot points.
the included side (interior) formed by the upper control arm limits 'droop' due to the stop being below the arm.
the included side (interior) formed by the lower control arm limits 'compression' due to the stop being above the arm
ball joint spacers increase the distance on that 4th side of the trapezoid.
that means that the upper and lower arms can travel farther with the spacer installed than without the spacer before encountering a 'stop'.
ball joint spacers, (at full droop) by themselves, will push the spindle farther down (and in kind push the lower control arm down), causing the outer (and inner) CV joint(s) to experience angles not found on stock suspension.
Last edited by abecedarian; 12-01-2008 at 07:10 PM.
12-01-2008, 08:20 PM
#29
If you have ball joint spacers like I do, the extra compression travel gained from low-profile bumpstops can cause your CVs to destroy themselves. The longer stops that I have don't seem to limit travel at all as they compress quite a bit. I think if you have the front end adjusted so the spacers give you extra droop travel you don't need to worry about the extra travel gained from low-profile bumpstops destroying your CVs but don't quote me on that.
12-01-2008, 08:21 PM
#30
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I've watched this thread a bit and it boggles my mind.
You want a progressive rate when the suspension is near bottoming out?
The best solution is a good shock absorber that slows down travel enough, before it even has the chance to bottom out, and keeps it from bottoming out.
After that, a good jounce dampener on the shock is in order.
Then after that- your bump stop is as good as it gets.
What is the point of having (a) shock absorber(s) if your suspension bottom(s) out?
You want a progressive rate when the suspension is near bottoming out?
The best solution is a good shock absorber that slows down travel enough, before it even has the chance to bottom out, and keeps it from bottoming out.
After that, a good jounce dampener on the shock is in order.
Then after that- your bump stop is as good as it gets.
What is the point of having (a) shock absorber(s) if your suspension bottom(s) out?
12-01-2008, 08:22 PM
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12-01-2008, 08:24 PM
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When you only have 7 inches of travel, a bumpstop is a integral part of how your truck rides. I got a longer, more progressive bumpstop to slow the suspension down before it completely bottoms out. Even the long travel trucks have progressive bumpstops of sorts, theirs are just much more fancy than a chunk of foam. Your truck will bottom the suspension whether you like it or not so I prefer the softer bottoming of a progressive stop to the harsh bottoming of the factory rubber pieces.
95% of the time, you should NEVER hit the bump stops.
12-01-2008, 08:30 PM
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I have the OME firm shock absorbers on my truck. They are properly valved for my application. I never said a poly foam bumpstop is the best way to stop my suspension, the best way is with jounce bumpers but I'm not about to spend that kind of money. Are you telling me you never hit your bumpstops when driving your vehicle?
12-01-2008, 08:47 PM
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jounce bumpers cost less than shocks, and about the same as the rubber snubbers on the frame.
and I never said I didn't hit the bump (compression) stops.
but if I found myself hitting the stops on a regular basis, I'd fix the shocks, not a bushing on the frame.
and I never said I didn't hit the bump (compression) stops.
but if I found myself hitting the stops on a regular basis, I'd fix the shocks, not a bushing on the frame.
12-01-2008, 09:01 PM
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Oh I thought you were referring the air bumps like Light Racing and others make. I don't understand the difference here between bumpstops and jounce bumpers. My admittedly limited research tells me they are the exact same thing. Could you show me a picture or send a link to what you're talking about? I feel as though I'm missing something here. Do you mean the foam cones that slip over the shocks, like these ones: http://www.daystarweb.com/productdet...?productID=679
I hit the bumpstops on the front of my truck daily unless I crawl over speed bumps and crawl down driveways. That isn't a flaw of the shocks, it is simply a result of not having enough travel to absorb the entirety of a speed bump or driveway slope.
Just to be clear, I'm not trying to start an internet pissing match.
I hit the bumpstops on the front of my truck daily unless I crawl over speed bumps and crawl down driveways. That isn't a flaw of the shocks, it is simply a result of not having enough travel to absorb the entirety of a speed bump or driveway slope.
Just to be clear, I'm not trying to start an internet pissing match.
12-01-2008, 09:44 PM
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if the shocks cannot sufficiently dampen the motion of the vehicle they are supporting, they are too soft, or at least do not have a sufficient rate.
Hitting the bump stop occasionally is to be expected, but that should be more dependent on speed and the size of the bump than simply a 'bump'.
http://www.daystarweb.com/productdet...?productID=679
yep, those are what I'm speaking of. they are typically found on lowered ricers, and prevent the shock from fully compressing (and likewise, the suspension of the vehicle they are on).
Hitting the bump stop occasionally is to be expected, but that should be more dependent on speed and the size of the bump than simply a 'bump'.
http://www.daystarweb.com/productdet...?productID=679
yep, those are what I'm speaking of. they are typically found on lowered ricers, and prevent the shock from fully compressing (and likewise, the suspension of the vehicle they are on).
