I fixed mine... took the throttle body off, adjusted the stop screw, cleaned it, adjusted the throttle position sensor, all is good and smooth now!!!

 

My truck had similar symptoms to these awhile back, and it turned out that the coolant line running through the throttle body was clogged. So if anybody can't solve their idle problem from the above methods, the coolant hose going into the TB might be the place to look.

 

Mine is wierd too, its fine when its warming up, and after. When I'm driving it and its in gear, its fine too even when stopped at a light or whatever. but if I put it in neutral or park, it goes up to around 1500 and stays there.

 

I know this is SUPER late in reply, I just registered, and found this is a search, me and some guys over at Wild Yoats figured this one out on my truck, check out the thread.
-John
http://www.wildyoats.com/vbulletin/s...t=weird+idling
turns out, it was the IAC valve just below the TB, it regulates the vaccum pressure in the TB, my advice, dont try the duct tape, try a thin flexable piece of sheet metal and some heat/chemical resistant sealant for a permanant attachment, or
just clean the IAC by blowing through the coolant lines with some compressed air.

 

Listen to toyotatuner he knows what he is talking about.

 

I have the same basic problem with my '95 3vze. Mine doesn't seem to have any corelation to temp, it just hangs out at high speeds like 2k at idle. Not wavering really. Blipping the throttle sometimes helps a bit, but it never goes below 1k after initial start. Does the IAC valve apply to the v6 too? What is the IAC? I'm new to toyotas, and all of these components are foreign to me. Especially all this vacuum driven stuff. I bought 3 meters of good silicone vac line and I ran out before replacing all lines! It does run better though.
I'm new here so thanks in advance for any help, and I'll help where I can too.

-Jon
-'95 4runner, 3VZE, 5spd, stock.
-'90 BMW e30 M3 (R.I.P)

 

could be that, im not familiar with 3v... its the one with 2 lines coming from the TB on the 22re, blow em through w/ air, see what happens.
If you follow the link i posted, it goes in a little more detail, the Haynes manual calls the IAC an Air Valve, dont know what FSM calls it, prob IAC. Basically its a thermal valve that opens and closes according to coolant temp., effectivly reducing/increasing TB vacuum pressure, IE cold engine @ idle, more air, open thermal valve, IE warm engine @ idle, constrict air valve perportianatly, a clogged air valve would either block vaccum pressure, indicated with low idle(posssibly) a clooged COOLANT line going to the air valve would be indicated with a higher idle. Of course this may not be the problem, its worth a shot, best of all, it dont cost a dime.

 

one other way, not nessicarially the best, or fool proof way to check it is to pinch off the IAC coolant lines at different operating temps, if the idle changes its GOOD.

 

wow this thread has been limping along all this time and I never even checked back. I havent messed with the issue since it hasnt happened since it got warm out. but it will probably start up again soon.

 

I have a 1987 toyota that i converted over from carberated to fuel injected im having the same kind of problem the idle surges from like 800 to 1300 rpms over and over again cold or hot. I dont think i have a vacume leak cause i sprayed all the lines with starting fluid and i also put a throttle postioning sensor on from another parts truck.