First Toyota purchase
08-09-2013, 10:14 AM
#21
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Location: good ole Mississippi
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To avoid giving out the wrong info/generalizations about the 3.0, let me say mine had the head gasket changed 10 years ago, and I've had zero issues with it in the ensuing 100,000 miles. One head gasket change (to avoid failure, not because of it) does not indicate it "snacks" on head gaskets. My '90 with a 3.0 had the original head gasket when it was totaled in a 2004 wreck. That's 14 years and over 150,000 miles.
Last edited by wiseguymmiv; 08-09-2013 at 10:17 AM.
08-09-2013, 11:29 AM
#22
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The 22re is prone to head gasket issues too -- it was the whole "asbestos is bad" thing that forced toyota engineers to try and find new headgaskets that would work on engines designed for asbestos ones (a lot of trial and error happened after many asbestos HG vehicles were already on market for several years and the factory had to switch HGs w/o changing the rest of the engine design). But the 3vze's rear crossover and uneven heating engine with a hotspot at the driver rear of the engine made it happen more often and more quickly. The 22r engines are what really created the legend of 22 series engines' reliability -- especially in regards to the 22r's much more beefy timing chain than than the 22re (LC Engineering sells a conversion kit btw -- 22rs run for 500k, while the 22re's timing chains need swapped every 150k).
And while the 22re is definitely easier to work on the 3vze (frankly these trucks' engine bays were designed for 4 cylinder diesel or gas engines, but the V6 replaced the turbo 4 in American markets largely due to marketing reasons). And though the 3vze is tight to work on, the biggest pain is the plenum which covers the passenger side bank and needs removed for most minor engine teardowns... With all the vacuum hoses (which all don't need removed btw), it's intimidating and can be a pain.
That said the 3.0 to 3.4L swap is one of the most straight forward swaps out there. So that V6 4 runner with manual tranny, you can actually pay someone else to do the swap for $3500 (toyonlyswaps.com -- I stalk their projects on facebook) or do it yourself. The only custom parts are the exhaust and wiring harness I think. Same folks above sell both. And with that 3.0 manual tranny -- the 3.4 bolts right up I believe (and unlike w/ a 22re, the driveshafts and tranny and transfer can handle the add'l power of the 3.4L without having to swap them too). Head over to the swaps section and read up so I don't beat a dead horse.
And if you add a supercharger to the 3.4L, that's pretty much the most powerful powerful power plant that our engine bays can fit... And the 3.4L is an excellent engine that gets more power, has better mpgs, and one that mechanics are actually used to and willing to work on (try to find a mechanic that won't try to talk you out of the necessary adjustment of a 3vze's valves...). I would really prefer a diesel but with better power specs, more mechanic support, more parts availability and much lower pricepoint, I'm leaning towards a supercharged 3.4L.
But again, with a 4runner, I'd absolutely recommend at least the 3vze in power. If you prefer a 4 cylinder 22re model, the more modern 2rzfe and 3rzfe are easy swaps on that platform (as are Toyota diesels and all covered in the swaps section as well), but all of their power specs are less than the supercharged 3.4L, and on the newer gas 4 cylinders, the more powerful 4 cyl 3rzfe is just a little shy of the stock 6 cyl 3vze's power specs. So with the 3rzfe, you essentially get the same power as the 3vze but better mpg, a little perkier engine, and a little wider powerband... So the new 4cylinder might drive a little better, but has the same balls as the old 6cyl -- and perhaps the old 6cyl has slightly larger ones if you play with timing, do a proper tuneup, and do some of the other low/no cost mods on this board and ensure everything on your rig is in tip top shape (checking sensors and all that other boring but essential maintenance). And if swapping onto a 22re rig, clutch, tranny, transfer and driveshafts are the minimum that should be swapped in addition to the engine.
Oh and the pink slush, it's pretty much just an issue where if you replace your radiator every 120k or so you really don't need to worry about it too much. And it only occurs on autos. The way the radiator is engineered is that due to corrosion and/or wear and tear, the coolant and tranny fluid can mix if the relatively weak divider fails. You can install an external tranny cooler (good idea regardless w/ or w/o the radiator bypass), but you'll want to get a temp gauge as installing the external as your solo cooler as too far away from your ac condenser can have air go around instead of through, which you wouldn't know until too late (and you also want to have your tranny fluid warm enough to burn off water/condensation too, which is why it might make sense to run through radiator and then through cooler)... Distilled water and only Toyota coolant in radiator too will keep corrosion to a minimum. If shops use hard water or not Toyota coolant, that expedites wear that leads to pink slush...
And while the 22re is definitely easier to work on the 3vze (frankly these trucks' engine bays were designed for 4 cylinder diesel or gas engines, but the V6 replaced the turbo 4 in American markets largely due to marketing reasons). And though the 3vze is tight to work on, the biggest pain is the plenum which covers the passenger side bank and needs removed for most minor engine teardowns... With all the vacuum hoses (which all don't need removed btw), it's intimidating and can be a pain.
That said the 3.0 to 3.4L swap is one of the most straight forward swaps out there. So that V6 4 runner with manual tranny, you can actually pay someone else to do the swap for $3500 (toyonlyswaps.com -- I stalk their projects on facebook) or do it yourself. The only custom parts are the exhaust and wiring harness I think. Same folks above sell both. And with that 3.0 manual tranny -- the 3.4 bolts right up I believe (and unlike w/ a 22re, the driveshafts and tranny and transfer can handle the add'l power of the 3.4L without having to swap them too). Head over to the swaps section and read up so I don't beat a dead horse.
And if you add a supercharger to the 3.4L, that's pretty much the most powerful powerful power plant that our engine bays can fit... And the 3.4L is an excellent engine that gets more power, has better mpgs, and one that mechanics are actually used to and willing to work on (try to find a mechanic that won't try to talk you out of the necessary adjustment of a 3vze's valves...). I would really prefer a diesel but with better power specs, more mechanic support, more parts availability and much lower pricepoint, I'm leaning towards a supercharged 3.4L.
But again, with a 4runner, I'd absolutely recommend at least the 3vze in power. If you prefer a 4 cylinder 22re model, the more modern 2rzfe and 3rzfe are easy swaps on that platform (as are Toyota diesels and all covered in the swaps section as well), but all of their power specs are less than the supercharged 3.4L, and on the newer gas 4 cylinders, the more powerful 4 cyl 3rzfe is just a little shy of the stock 6 cyl 3vze's power specs. So with the 3rzfe, you essentially get the same power as the 3vze but better mpg, a little perkier engine, and a little wider powerband... So the new 4cylinder might drive a little better, but has the same balls as the old 6cyl -- and perhaps the old 6cyl has slightly larger ones if you play with timing, do a proper tuneup, and do some of the other low/no cost mods on this board and ensure everything on your rig is in tip top shape (checking sensors and all that other boring but essential maintenance). And if swapping onto a 22re rig, clutch, tranny, transfer and driveshafts are the minimum that should be swapped in addition to the engine.
Oh and the pink slush, it's pretty much just an issue where if you replace your radiator every 120k or so you really don't need to worry about it too much. And it only occurs on autos. The way the radiator is engineered is that due to corrosion and/or wear and tear, the coolant and tranny fluid can mix if the relatively weak divider fails. You can install an external tranny cooler (good idea regardless w/ or w/o the radiator bypass), but you'll want to get a temp gauge as installing the external as your solo cooler as too far away from your ac condenser can have air go around instead of through, which you wouldn't know until too late (and you also want to have your tranny fluid warm enough to burn off water/condensation too, which is why it might make sense to run through radiator and then through cooler)... Distilled water and only Toyota coolant in radiator too will keep corrosion to a minimum. If shops use hard water or not Toyota coolant, that expedites wear that leads to pink slush...
Last edited by RSR; 08-09-2013 at 11:51 AM.
08-09-2013, 06:09 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Going to look at the 1990 4runner tomorrow, hopefully it pans out, i'm curious as to why its priced so low...
EDIT- KBB value is 1300 in "good" condition for a 1993 with similar miles, so i guess he is a little over.
EDIT- KBB value is 1300 in "good" condition for a 1993 with similar miles, so i guess he is a little over.
Last edited by jb451; 08-09-2013 at 06:16 PM.
08-10-2013, 01:37 PM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Done and Done, bought my first Toyota. I'll get some pics next weekend when we go pick it up. (needs tires and registration sticker, so i'm not driving it across town.) Talked him down to 1500 and he covers the TT&L. No clutch chatter (although it was fun watching me drive a standard, havent done that in a while), no cv axle noise, engine sounds pretty good, i'm stoked!
08-10-2013, 02:11 PM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Went with the '90 4runner! I looked at an 85 pickup earlier today, the bed was completely rusted, needed a carb, etc, etc, so i knew that was a little too much work for me.
I'm not sure whats better- having a second vehicle i can depend on, or having one with A/C
I'm not sure whats better- having a second vehicle i can depend on, or having one with A/C
08-11-2013, 02:35 PM
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah, i've been looking at OME's 2" lift, i doubt i'll ever do any hardcore off roading like some of ya'll do, but i would like to be able to stuff some bigger tires up underneath it. (33" possibly) I'm pretty conservative with modifications when it comes to cars.
My plan as soon as i get it-
Change all fluids
Tune up
New O2 sensor
Belts and filters
31x10.5 A/T Tires
Then it will get a new timing belt and WP, radiator and catalytic converters, as well as new exhaust. Trying to get rid of as much of the high wear/high mileage parts before i have issues. Next January i will probably buy the lift kit, new CV axles, maybe some wheels. Oh, found out the thing has the 4.56 gears from the FAQ section, so i'm pretty happy about that too!
My plan as soon as i get it-
Change all fluids
Tune up
New O2 sensor
Belts and filters
31x10.5 A/T Tires
Then it will get a new timing belt and WP, radiator and catalytic converters, as well as new exhaust. Trying to get rid of as much of the high wear/high mileage parts before i have issues. Next January i will probably buy the lift kit, new CV axles, maybe some wheels. Oh, found out the thing has the 4.56 gears from the FAQ section, so i'm pretty happy about that too!
Last edited by jb451; 08-11-2013 at 02:37 PM.
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