eriklgordon

Im almost ready to lift the motor out but I can't figure out how to disconnect and plug fuel lines( not sure where they are), disconnect the two heater hoses ( not sure where they are either) and then do I have to drain the transmission before i unbolt it from the motor?

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Fuel lines disconnect at two points, both on the pass side. High pressure down by the frame rail (14mm and 19mm wreches) and the low pressure up by the intake. Again, both on passenger side.

Heater hoses are center of firewall. Disconnect one from the heater valve, and the other from the pipe.

I would suggest draining the trans for several reasons. #1 You will have to refill it, meaning you now have fresh fluid. VIOLA Fluid change. #2 minimize the risk for spills or leaks.

Also, you do not have to remove the upper plenum to take out the engine. It might make it a bit easier, but its not necessary. Every engine I remove here at work still has the intake attached.

eriklgordon

ok all hoses etc. disconnected, trans drained, I got the transmission on a floor jack and i was able to get 3 of the bolts out but cant reach the last one. As far as the motor mounts go how do I get access to them to undo them? A little shove in the right direction would be sweeet. Thanks

eriklgordon

got the four motor mounts undone and the motor is hooked up to a shop crane, now do I have to unbolt all of the trans bolts, and do I have to disconnect the t case or can I leave it attached?

Elvota

You have to unbolt all the tranny bolts if you are planning on leaving the tranny in the truck.

There are two at the top of the bell housing that are difficult to get at, so say the least.

Most access them with a series of extensions going to the back of the transfer case, but you may be able to wiggle the engine around a bit and access them from the top in front of the firewall.

thook

Put a block under the trans. once you get the bolts loose and before you pull the motor away from it.

One thing about the two top bellhousing bolts.....I don't know if you'd be able to get to them without the head off. I don't recall there being enough clearance between it and the firewall. If not, like Elvota said you could try wiggling. But, with the motor mounts off, you may be able to lean the motor nose down to gain some. You'd have to disconnect the drivelines, though. OR, with the drivelines off, you could pull up on the motor enough to angle the motor/trans. assembly nose up and access them from underneath. Just always make sure everything is safely supported.

89pickupsr5

for the top tranny bolts i went from the shifter location in the cab with a bunch of extensions

nate V

x2 thats the easiest way to get the upper tranny bolts unless you have a body life

if you are using the 88 harness with the 91 engine you might run into a snag with the sensors in the head in front of the fire wall. The coolant temp sensor and the cold start injection timing sensor. This i know is different from 88 to 95 but like i said i am unsure of the difference from 88-91.

with regards to the plugs under the pass kick panel 3 are clearly for the ecu. The other larger plug is what is needed to start and run the engine. The smaller of the remaining 2 is souly for the indicators in your dash; temp, oil, things like that.
I just finished my 2nd swap into my 88 and it is now running with a 89 engine.

MonsterMaxx

I have a 2" body lift on mine and those two top bolts are still a MFer. 3' extensions, swivels and a few busted knuckles will get it done.

W/o a body lift I'm sure it's possible as the Toy Techs at the stealership can do it - though they can justify a special tool when needed.

You might want to remove the motor mounts completely (off the block) then you should be able to lower the motor some more and get to those bolts.

Be sure to support the trans when you actually pull the motor.

eriklgordon

sweet , motor is out! So where can I order some headers? I have been having a really hard time finding them online! Thanks for all your help so far!

Elvota

Downey Toyota is one source for 3.0 and 3.4 headers.

eriklgordon

Sweet now the motor is out and I'm ready to switch the necessary parts. Can someone post a complete checklist Thanks so much!!! Also I am having real trouble finding any headers at a decent price. Best Ive found are downey chrome new w y pipe for 455 + shipping. Used would be great, I'm not picky I just really don't want to put that stupid manifold system back in.