Hey yall,
I'm got an 87 22r 4x4 pickup with the following developing problems:

1. Clutch is about to go (slippage)
2. Oil pan gasket is leaking pretty bad (1.5q per 3k miles)
3. Timing chain is starting to rattle at low RPM (mostly just when starting up)

The truck has 129k on it, so I'm not surprised that these things need attention. I wondering is the easiest way to take care of all these problems is to pull the engine, and of course the best way to go about doing that.

Let me know what yall think the best course of action is given the following:

1. I don't have a lift.
2. I don't have a transmission jack.
3. I do have a tractor.

Thanks!
-Jackson

 

I used a ratchet strap wrapped around the frame and under the bell housing to support the tranny - no need to pull it, just the wires that go to the trans. Have a bottle jack handy when you put the engine back in, so you can get the tranny lined up with the engine. The two top bolts are tricky. I used a 3/8 driver, 12" extension, u joint type elbow, 8" extension to get up there. There is no easy way to get at the driver side, the e brake and speedo cables are in the way and less clearance from the body than the pass side IMO

 

The way i get the top 2 bolts is remove the crossmember bolts and have a jack under. Then lower the trans and it will tip everything so that you can get at the bolts with extension on a impact gun. Then jack it back up (take the load back off the engine mounts) and continue. I take the exhaust off at the manifold as not to tweak it. I also use the strap across the frame just under the bell housing. Makes it easier for install.

I would pull the engine for what you are talking about changing. You have to disconnect the trans so might as well.

 

+1 remove the exhaust manifold and lower the tranny down to get access to the top bolts. Great idea!

 

Any one of those three items can be done with the engine in the truck. But if you're needing to do all three it probably would be easier and faster to just pull the engine.

 

Pull the engine, it can be done in a morning.

Anymore, if I have to do the timing chain...I just pull the engine and reseal the pan and do the head gasket... as the right way to do the timing chain is to pull the head.

 

True, I've never bought into the whole idea of replacing the timing chain without removing the head. I know some people have reported being successful but I've always pulled the head.

 

Awesome, thanks guys. I think I am going to pull the engine, replace the head gasket, timing chain, water pump and oil pump while I'm at it. Is there anything else I should tinker with while the engine is out?

Also, any recommendations on what to hold this engine with while I do this work?

 

If its a manual id do the input bearing and the pilot. If the trans is making no noise just the pilot.

 

Reseal the EGR coolant passage on the back of the head. The only way to get to it is remove the engine or the entire head.

Look at the valve guides and replace as they like to leak.

Take your time resealing the timing cover and oil pan. Use FIPG if you want to prevent leaks.

 

http://www.lceperformance.com/Produc...53042&CartID=1

That's what I'll be replacing my clutch with. Comes with a pilot bearing.

 

I think you mean just the valve seals? Guides you might as well get a new head.

Good one on the coolent passage.

 

Pulling the engine isn't as bad as it seems, honestly. Those two bolts that everyone is mentioning are probably the most frustrating, but lining the tranny and engine back up when you're reinstalling was a headache for me (but an extra hand would probably alleviate this problem).

While the engine is pulled, you might want to replace the clutch throw out bearing (super easy), input seal (also super easy), and pilot bearing like others have said. If those decide to crap out in the near future, you will kick yourself for not doing it now.

If you are going to de-smog anything or make any changes, or replace any water pipes, now will be the time to tackle that as well, it is sooooo much easier to do with everything out of the truck.

Good luck friend, you got it!

Also, Harbor Freight has some cheap engine hoists if you end up having to buy one.

 

I have a tractor to actually hoist the engine, I'm more looking for something to hold it while working on it.

 

Would this work?

 

That engine weighs less than 300 lbs with everything bolted to it. I'd just grab a cheap stand from harbor freight or second hand then sell it if you don't want it around.

 

What do these type of stands bolt to?

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-...and-69887.html

PLUS there is a 25%(!) off coupon good on Sunday only. (-- for Mom --)

You might have to pick up four 10mm hardware-store bolts to attach the engine to the stand -- the transmission bolts may, or may not, be long enough.

 

Thanks again, everyone. I may have more questions as this progresses.

 

+1 on the engine stand from harbor freight, simple and super cheap.

HOWEVER, the bolts you need are not 10mm, they're 12x1.25, same size and pitch as your head bolts, but shorter. You can use old head bolts in a pinch, but you have to use a bunch of spacers (big nuts/washers, pipe, whatever) and you wont be able to use the full rotation feature of the stand.