skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I do my own. some builders are up to 6 month waits. My formula is to fix my own than risk Chinese parts. I have Delta cams re grind the rockers and cam. I go to Enginbldr for a master kit. Have the local machine shop do the head separate from the block, punch it 20 or 30 over. ARP rod bolts and just follow the FSM in re assembly.

lectric80

Not really thinking performance, just a mildly better than stock rebuild for me. However, the cat is currently plugged solid based on the glowing exhaust manifold when the engine blew up, and the exhaust is shot. I plan to replace it all, and will likely go to a local shop, and family friend, to have them build me a simple 2" system with a decent muffler that will hold together for a while.

I honestly loved my ENGNBLDR cam in my (now dead) engine, got around 24-25 MPGs at 220k miles, and could cruise under all but the windiest conditions in 5th at 70+. However, I just don't have the cash to order the parts from him for a complete rebuild. The cost of just the pistons, rings, and gaskets exceeds the cost for the RockAuto kit that I'm planning on using. Yes, I have no doubt that it has chinese stuff in it, but I just don't have the cash to spend on more expensive parts right now. I need my truck back, putting nearly 30k miles a year on a brand new car is just not going to cut it long term, my warranty is nearly up and I haven't owned it a year.

Head, well I know a few guys here are running the SunWest Auto engines, and honestly I don't want to do this again for many years, so a new casting is the best bang for the buck. By the time I add up the machine work and quality parts to have my head done, it exceeds the cost of a new head with new valves, springs, retainers, cam mounts, and RV cam. That's a no brainer, and I can use the bad head from my rebuildable engine for the core (guaranteed core return), while keeping my good head and cam for future use.

As for ARP rod bolts, any particular location you order them from? I ask because my engine failed at the rod bolts, and so spending a little extra to insure that doesn't happen again would be well worth it to me.

As for the bore, have you seen any odd issues with the bored engines? Any overheating problems, beyond just simply running a bit warmer than a stock engine?

Odin

Normally a bored engine shouldn't run warmer. If there's problems with heat it's because someone's bored it out too far sacrificing cylinder wall thickness and rigidity.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

ARP rod bolts can be gotten on ebay, Jegs, or Summit racing. the big end needs resizing so that a little extra machine work. But well worth it. Beware of the new chinese castings, they are cheap but they like to warp and blow head gaskets. Anyway to hang on and overhaul your Japanese head? I got nice stainess valves and seals on ebay and it cost me local $300 and its sitting on my floor now. Waiting for spring.

anndel

22RE Performance

lectric80

I wish, but after looking at their prices, and I'm sure it is justified, they are a bit out of my budget. Their stock grind cam and new head is almost 200 higher than Sunwest wants for an RV cam and new head, and that's just pushing my limited budget too far. To go with the better head from 22re it would be almost what I plan to have total into the engine, and that's just the head and cam.

I did find engnbldr on e-Bay, and he lists a new casting head with RV cam for about 450, which is a bit higher than I planned, but he seemed to have decent quality with the cam so it may be worth it. I believe it was stainless valves as well. I may go that route, but I am looking at 22re Performance for the better rocker shafts with improved oiling.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I do understand price points. Do you really need a new Cylinder head? I've had two done by a local machinist and they work just fine. I'm really big on the guy's at Delta Cams. I mail them my really trashed Toyota cam and rockers, and I get back about 2 weeks later a good cam and rockers. Pulled the receipt; $156.50 shipped to my door. I got a set of valves from Grumpy's Performance for $45, seals are in the kit from Enginbldr. NY prices on labor are steep, but you know what you have. Vice a mass produced head that might have assembly issues.

vsi1600

+1. Jim does great work.

lectric80

As many heads as I have done on these engines makes me want to do a new head. Mine is good, the other head I have may be fine, but I don't know the history on them, including if they've been overheated or shown signs of leaking. I know I could probably just have my head trued and run it as it is, good seal on the cylinders and a relatively new cam from engnbldr, but if I keep it my buddy and I can build the spare block he has over a bit of time so that we have extras.

I have 2 other concerns with the heads I have now:

1. The head off the rebuildable engine was never machined last time it was installed. It was also installed with a stripped head bolt hole, so at least one bolt was not under torque, and it may be warped.
2. The head off my engine, I am keeping it, but I know that I covered around 1/2 a mile or more before I shut the engine down after the tap/rattle started. The tap was most definitely at the top end, and was likely the piston smacking the head as it came up after the studs started to give way. It is possible this head is fine, but the work involved makes it safer for me to put a new head now while I have the money, then have this head machined and checked, in case something goes wrong with my new head.

Maybe I'm grasping at straws a little in my justification, and if so please tell me, but I rarely have an extra $800 lying around if something should happen to the new engine. I would much rather be sure everything is as new, and solid, as possible.

xylicon

Just an update, I'm at about 60K miles on my Sunwest Automotive Engine. It still runs like the day I installed it.

lectric80

Was it a new casting head or rebuilt head?

xylicon

New casting head.

lectric80

Thanks, that's good to know.

fountain

anybody used any reman engines from advanced auto? I know im goint to get bashed here, but im looking at an engine from them with the warranty. they have some pretty good warranty plans it seems. id love to have a motor from jim at 22re, but cant see putting that much into it

lectric80

I've got a few days off after tonight, and a house project or 2k to do, but I will begin the final teardown of the rebuildable engine and be getting it to the machine shop, likely by next week. It might be a couple of weeks or so before I order the head, tax refund will cover most of the costs but not quite enough to cover the head with an emergency that just came up, so I will need to save a bit of cash. I want to get the bottom end and machine work all finished up and I will get it assembled, I will get the engine pulled out of my truck, then as soon as I get the head I can button it up and drop it into place. I will try to get pics, if anyone is interested, as I go along.

86 TOY

I'm interested...post the pics if you get a chance!

lectric80

As much as I hate to admit it, I've had to postpone the engine rebuild for a bit longer. I spent the last week remodeling our kitchen and dining room, which cost a bit more than I had planned, but the wife is happy so I guess I can wait a bit longer to get my little truck back on the road.