motoracer47

i agree with kyle as well, and i should have mentioned that alot of it has to do with ring face coating. moly rings seat quicker than chromium faced rings, and use a much finner cylinder wall finish as well.(the moly rings have microscopic pores that retain oil, so the walls can be finished to almost a mirror finish with moly rings) ive had excellent results with nitride rings in my 2-stroke, and break in is next to nothing, rev it up and down for about 3-5 mins, working your way to redline, then a 10min track session and its ready to go, although we do hand hone the rings in a bore thats identical to the engines cylinder bore.

AUYota

Cam break-in: Get the Runner up to about 60mph throw it in nutreal and let it coast down to 15mph. Do this every day for about a week...

eclipsh

So here's an odd one for everyone... I'm rebuilding a 22re and I have a new "RV" cam from engnbldr in. If he says keep the engine at 2k for 30 min for the cam but motoman says drive it like you stole it, which should be done?

Azusacanyonbogger

built many motors and tried many methods.. Drive it like you Stole it ALWAYS works the best!! babying it either blows it up or smokes like a mofo because the rings didn't seat... start it... let it idle for about 20-25 mins..change the oil.... go rip on it like normal..... my way of breaking it in and it works for stock and full race motors. although my race motors are broken in on the Dyno... which is pretty hard on the motor! but they run great and No SMOKE!!

SEAIRESCUE

Like Eclpish noted, the cams are the weak spots. I would immediately keep the RPM at 1500 for 30 minutes while you check for leaks. Then drive it normally. It will likely consume a quart of oil during breakin so watch the oil level DAILY. I would change the oil at 500 miles of driving...that's my belief. I would then switch to a synthetic oil and enjoy your new engine.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it's not rocket science and it is just a truck engine. When I built my 22re this is what I did:

Fill with regular dino oil
Unplug coil, rev til oil pressure rises
Plug in coil, start engine
Bring idle up to 2000rpm for 10 minutes or so
Went out for a drive, found some hills
Go up hills at mid-rpm, high-throttle to seat rings
Change oil after a hundred miles or so

Then I just drove it hard with dino oil for 3 or 4 thousand miles and switched to Amsoil! Doesn't burn a drop of oil and runs very well.

eclipsh

Rustbucket, I think you make the most sense. It'll be easy to find a hill since I live on a hill that is a mile long continuous climb followed by a steep downhill. I can just drive up and down it for an hour or something :p

isaac338

the reason manufacturers recommend things like easy breakins and oiled cylinders at assembly is to save their asses from the lawyers when people throw a rod or something while performing a hard breakin. the oil in the cylinders also helps to avoid rust on the journey overseas.