Electric fan controller
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Electric fan controller
About ready to 3.4 swap my factory 22re truck, and I'll be running a Ford Taurus 2 speed electric fan. Anyone ever run one of these, and what did you do to controll it? What I'd really like is the low speed to be controlled by temperature and come on automatically at say, 190 degrees (3.4 thermostat is 180) and the high speed to be controlled manually with a switch in the dash, almost like an override. Ideas?
#2
I used a volvo fan relay and fan, controlled by a Honda dual temp switch screwed into a Saab fan switch housing. Good info at https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/ta...ay-how-214815/
#3
Registered User
[QUOTE=95YotaPickup;52458989]About ready to 3.4 swap my factory 22re truck, and I'll be running a Ford Taurus 2 speed electric fan. Anyone ever run one of these, and what did you do to controll it?
Hi:
A few years ago I converted to a two speed Taurus fan in my 95 3.0 Runner.
I did so because the fan bracket bearing on the mechanical fan bit the dust, and I wanted to see if an electric rig would do the job.
A secondary goal was to quiet the annoying roar of the Toyota fan.
I cobbed up a wiring system using a volvo controller, a couple of relays, a fuse, and a BMW 180 degree temp sensor.
I mounted the temp sensor in piece of pipe that was grafted into the upper radiator hose with a bung I brazed into it.
It has worked perfectly for about 4 years now, but with one gotcha.
The FordTaurus/Nissan Quest fan draws 60 amps inrush, and 30 amps steady state, no matter if it is hi or lo speed.
After about a month, I noticed that my battery was getting weaker, and had less zip when cranking the engine.
The Toyota alternator (65 amps) doesn't have the overall poop to keep the battery fully charged. There was an overall net loss.
So I went and converted to a GM CS-144 alternator, (140 amps), but that is a Quest (no pun intended) for a completely different thread.
Good Luck
Art.
Hi:
A few years ago I converted to a two speed Taurus fan in my 95 3.0 Runner.
I did so because the fan bracket bearing on the mechanical fan bit the dust, and I wanted to see if an electric rig would do the job.
A secondary goal was to quiet the annoying roar of the Toyota fan.
I cobbed up a wiring system using a volvo controller, a couple of relays, a fuse, and a BMW 180 degree temp sensor.
I mounted the temp sensor in piece of pipe that was grafted into the upper radiator hose with a bung I brazed into it.
It has worked perfectly for about 4 years now, but with one gotcha.
The FordTaurus/Nissan Quest fan draws 60 amps inrush, and 30 amps steady state, no matter if it is hi or lo speed.
After about a month, I noticed that my battery was getting weaker, and had less zip when cranking the engine.
The Toyota alternator (65 amps) doesn't have the overall poop to keep the battery fully charged. There was an overall net loss.
So I went and converted to a GM CS-144 alternator, (140 amps), but that is a Quest (no pun intended) for a completely different thread.
Good Luck
Art.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice guys, looks like I'll be trying to source a Volvo controller here soon. I will be doing the CS144 alternator before I swap the new 3.4 in, so we should have plenty of juice to power the big fan.
#5
Registered User
Volvo Controller
Hi;
Some information if you are crusin the dismantler:
On a 90's vintage Volvo, the fan controller is mounted forward of the rad support on the passenger side near the headlight bucket.
Take the wiring plugs with it, along with at least a foot of any wire attached to the plugs
The CS-144 alternator can be found on the GM Northstar engine mounted in the V of the V8 (easy to get at). They are on other GM cars and trucks, but see if you can find a 90's Cadillac Allante.
There is a website called Alternator man, or guy, or dude. He has a cable that changes gender from Toyota to GM for 19 bux, plus a rebuild kit for about 50 bux, that has everything to recon the alt.
Be sure to upgrade your power feeds, and grounds with at least a two step heavier gauge to handle the increased current. This is very important.
Good Luck with the swap, and throw some pictures of your progress.
Art.
The Cadillac alt pulley has a 5 or 6 ribbed serp belt, and the Toyota has only three.
A 3 ribbed belt will run the bigger GM pulley just fine, and when the hood is closed, who knows?
Trying to swap pulleys will risk damage to the shafts (bend) and then you get to start allover again..
Some information if you are crusin the dismantler:
On a 90's vintage Volvo, the fan controller is mounted forward of the rad support on the passenger side near the headlight bucket.
Take the wiring plugs with it, along with at least a foot of any wire attached to the plugs
The CS-144 alternator can be found on the GM Northstar engine mounted in the V of the V8 (easy to get at). They are on other GM cars and trucks, but see if you can find a 90's Cadillac Allante.
There is a website called Alternator man, or guy, or dude. He has a cable that changes gender from Toyota to GM for 19 bux, plus a rebuild kit for about 50 bux, that has everything to recon the alt.
Be sure to upgrade your power feeds, and grounds with at least a two step heavier gauge to handle the increased current. This is very important.
Good Luck with the swap, and throw some pictures of your progress.
Art.
The Cadillac alt pulley has a 5 or 6 ribbed serp belt, and the Toyota has only three.
A 3 ribbed belt will run the bigger GM pulley just fine, and when the hood is closed, who knows?
Trying to swap pulleys will risk damage to the shafts (bend) and then you get to start allover again..
Last edited by ZARTT; 02-21-2021 at 07:45 PM. Reason: more info.
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