Spread5150

I am in the process of getting to the lower pair valve and EGR valve bolts. They are a pain. Anyone have a tool list on how they got to them.

I have a 12mm and 14 mill socket and it ain’t cutting it. Just some smaller hand tools. I can get to them but they ain’t breaking.

snippits

If you can get a wrench on it, then hit the end of the wrench with a dead blow hammer has worked for me very good over the years. Just don't know if this method will work with your engine.

millball

It is often possible to use two open end/box end wrenches yoked together to move tough fasteners.

snippits

Good call! I forgot about that method. I have used it many times in tight spaces.

Spread5150

Should be able to get it off now as soon as it warms up.

another question. How many gaskets do I need and are the two on the lower half of the pair valve and EGR the same size ?

Spread5150

The answer is the two lower sets of bolts both use the same gasket.

I have the EGR itself off. But I’m going to have to get it down the road (about 5 miles) to get the lower bolts off. Since I have the intake tube out I can clean off the outside of the intake and put the LCE block plate on that spot. But the lower parts are still connected. (I now have an open tube for the EGR though. ). Will is start ? Or is there something I need to do to temp bypass the EGR to get me down the road ?

Spread5150

Well I had to fork out to a shop to get them off. If you have a lift or jack stands maybe it wouldn’t be such a bear but man it was tough to work in there.

Vacuume capped the top air box by the alternator line and removed it. I believe the second lower one controls the power steering idle up so I’m not messing w that one. So far I’m about 20 miles in and it’s running about the same. No check engine light yet. Maybe it’s coming ?

millball

I recently removed and re- attached these EGR and PAIR parts to the exhaust manifold on my 3vz with ordinary hand tools; but I had the power steering pump and its brackets removed when I did it. I did no work from underneath the truck.

You shouldn't get a check engine light unless your trucks emissions regime includes an EGR temperature sensor on the EGR valve.

Does your truck have a second o2 sensor behind the CAT?? That might matter too.

Fact is that if the EGR and PAIR are working as designed, you will see no performance improvement by removing them.

Spread5150

I have not noticed any Gaines in performance. I had the EGR go down on me twice in the last few years. I just like knowing I don’t have to deal w it again.

I was having a warm start issue. I plugged it and it fired right up so I decided to end it. Now that’s it’s off and out I may be still be having a warm start issue. Hmmm I’ll report back.

My truck has no second o2 sensor.

spoke to soon 35 miles or so and the check engine just went off. Busting out the resistors

Spread5150

Alright have the 10k in there. Do I just drive and it will clear or should I do I need to clear the code manually

Spread5150

Answer is 10k resistor ended the light on its own.

2ToyGuy

It may have turned the light off, but is the code still stored? If it is, it will show up the next time you decide to pull the codes out, and can be misleading if you're chasing a new problem.
I feel it would be best to clear the codes out completely, by pulling the negative battery lead off for a minute or two. I always do that after a problem that's been setting the light gets fixed for sure. That way I KNOW I don't have any codes lurking in the ECU's memory, ready to confuse me when I least expect it.

After you do that, also, it takes the ECU a while to "re-learn" all the parameters it needs, but that's just a matter of driving it a few times, under different conditions. City, highway, warmed up thoroughly, just started completely cold, etc. After a while, the ECU will be back where it is now, and totally good to go. These ECU's aren't really all that smart, after all.

Just me, though.
Good luck to ya!
Pat☺