Driveshaft Quick Disconnect Experiences?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Driveshaft Quick Disconnect Experiences?
I'm looking at making my 4runner my toad behind my RV for flat-four towing. I'm not terribly opposed to crawling under and hooking up the driveshaft every time, but does anybody have any experience with the quick disconnects like this link, or the remco units?
https://www.trailtough.com/product/rear-drive-disconnect-for-toyotas/
I'm 99% highway driving, 1% putting it in 4 wheel drive for really bad gravel/dirt forest roads to get to a hiking trailhead (not a rock crawler)
Thanks,
Rob
https://www.trailtough.com/product/rear-drive-disconnect-for-toyotas/
I'm 99% highway driving, 1% putting it in 4 wheel drive for really bad gravel/dirt forest roads to get to a hiking trailhead (not a rock crawler)
Thanks,
Rob
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 0
Received 110 Likes
on
82 Posts
Looks like a reasonable low-cost option for moderate use like you'd be doing. You'll just have to make sure you have the right transfer case. The disconnect you reference appears to only fit the 4-cylinder gear-drive tcase (RF1A), manual transmission. If you have a V6 and/or an auto, you're probably out of luck.
You'll also need to plan on shortening your drive shaft to accommodate the extra length of the disco. Runs about $100.
Another option for you is to just run in front wheel drive when you only need the vehicle as a runabout on good roads. You'd only need to install the rear driveshaft if you expected to need 4wd.
You'll also need to plan on shortening your drive shaft to accommodate the extra length of the disco. Runs about $100.
Another option for you is to just run in front wheel drive when you only need the vehicle as a runabout on good roads. You'd only need to install the rear driveshaft if you expected to need 4wd.
Last edited by RJR; 04-22-2019 at 01:41 PM.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks! didn't think about the driveshaft length
Didn't think about running 2wd either, just put it in 4 high and lock... Both front hubs?
And yes, I've got a 4cyl manual
Didn't think about running 2wd either, just put it in 4 high and lock... Both front hubs?
And yes, I've got a 4cyl manual
#4
IF you don't connect the wheels to the axle hub, it won't move.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,299
Likes: 0
Received 841 Likes
on
661 Posts
Except that the hardware to deliver power to the front wheels (front drive shaft, half-shafts) is much smaller than the hardware for the rear wheels. It's obviously not designed to deliver all the drive power through the front. But for driving into town to pick up a quart of milk, I think you'd be okay.
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 0
Received 110 Likes
on
82 Posts
The front drive train is more than adequate strength-wise for any driving on pavement in high range that you'd do. It's designed to handle low range, which more than doubles the applied torque, and there are many times in the rocks where the front is doing all the work while the rear is in a low traction situation just dragging along. Plenty of strength there for front-wheel drive highway driving. The more likely possible issue is smoothness at high speeds. The front drive shaft may not be balanced as well, so you may get some vibration above 45 mph or so. You won't know until you try it. Also, the RF1A tcase which you have can be noisy at higher speeds when in 4wd, because the front output is gear driven. (Chain driven front outputs are quieter). Nothing to worry about, just be aware you might hear it more.
Lock in both front hubs or it won't move. As said, no worries about binding as long as the rear drive shaft is disconnected.
Lock in both front hubs or it won't move. As said, no worries about binding as long as the rear drive shaft is disconnected.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
No binding. It would be equivalent to driving a front-wheel-drive.
Except that the hardware to deliver power to the front wheels (front drive shaft, half-shafts) is much smaller than the hardware for the rear wheels. It's obviously not designed to deliver all the drive power through the front. But for driving into town to pick up a quart of milk, I think you'd be okay.
Except that the hardware to deliver power to the front wheels (front drive shaft, half-shafts) is much smaller than the hardware for the rear wheels. It's obviously not designed to deliver all the drive power through the front. But for driving into town to pick up a quart of milk, I think you'd be okay.
The front drive train is more than adequate strength-wise for any driving on pavement in high range that you'd do. It's designed to handle low range, which more than doubles the applied torque, and there are many times in the rocks where the front is doing all the work while the rear is in a low traction situation just dragging along. Plenty of strength there for front-wheel drive highway driving. The more likely possible issue is smoothness at high speeds. The front drive shaft may not be balanced as well, so you may get some vibration above 45 mph or so. You won't know until you try it. Also, the RF1A tcase which you have can be noisy at higher speeds when in 4wd, because the front output is gear driven. (Chain driven front outputs are quieter). Nothing to worry about, just be aware you might hear it more.
Lock in both front hubs or it won't move. As said, no worries about binding as long as the rear drive shaft is disconnected.
Lock in both front hubs or it won't move. As said, no worries about binding as long as the rear drive shaft is disconnected.
#9
Registered User
I have a very similar looking driveshaft disconnect on my 4runner. I'm assuming it was an after market add on. I have never tried to use it, as I'm worried I'll get it disconnected and not be able to reconnect it... I would like to remove it and put in a proper length DS, but will most likely wait until I do a 5 speed swap and try to track down a DS from a manual.
(I know, old thread)
(I know, old thread)
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have a very similar looking driveshaft disconnect on my 4runner. I'm assuming it was an after market add on. I have never tried to use it, as I'm worried I'll get it disconnected and not be able to reconnect it... I would like to remove it and put in a proper length DS, but will most likely wait until I do a 5 speed swap and try to track down a DS from a manual.
(I know, old thread)
(I know, old thread)
I installed a tcase emergency brake, so that area is now occupied, this one that mates to the rear diff is great.
Can you tell who made it?
#11
Registered User
I'm assuming they weren't a dealer option or something like that, and was put in by a shop after purchase.
edit: It seems like most of them are air actuated? I don't think the one I have is, it seems like it's just a cable pull and push? I'll post a pic of where the cable sits on the right of the driver seat right on the transmission tunnel in a bit.
Last edited by 5 Fists; 08-14-2020 at 06:30 AM.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
I haven't found any logos or markings on it yet, but I'll crawl back under this weekend and see what I can find on it.
I'm assuming they weren't a dealer option or something like that, and was put in by a shop after purchase.
edit: It seems like most of them are air actuated? I don't think the one I have is, it seems like it's just a cable pull and push? I'll post a pic of where the cable sits on the right of the driver seat right on the transmission tunnel in a bit.
I'm assuming they weren't a dealer option or something like that, and was put in by a shop after purchase.
edit: It seems like most of them are air actuated? I don't think the one I have is, it seems like it's just a cable pull and push? I'll post a pic of where the cable sits on the right of the driver seat right on the transmission tunnel in a bit.
Could help me find one like it. Shame you live on the opposite side of the continent or we could just trade driveshafts, but if you take it off I might buy it off you, paying you + to ship it would probably still be cheaper than $500+ for a new one
#13
Registered User
Thanks, I'm happy to have whatever pictures you take of it!
Could help me find one like it. Shame you live on the opposite side of the continent or we could just trade driveshafts, but if you take it off I might buy it off you, paying you + to ship it would probably still be cheaper than $500+ for a new one
Could help me find one like it. Shame you live on the opposite side of the continent or we could just trade driveshafts, but if you take it off I might buy it off you, paying you + to ship it would probably still be cheaper than $500+ for a new one
No problem man, I'll snap as many pics as I can this weekend, and I would definitely be willing to ship it to you once I remove it.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
#15
Registered User
Not a problem man, here's what I snapped on the weekend. Let me know if there's any part of it specifically you want a pic of.
Pull knob on the transmission tunnel, between right leg and shifter
Cable exits cab right here, at the back of the center console between it and driver seat
The remnants of a brand name... Remco popped up with a quick google search
Pull knob on the transmission tunnel, between right leg and shifter
Cable exits cab right here, at the back of the center console between it and driver seat
The remnants of a brand name... Remco popped up with a quick google search
Last edited by 5 Fists; 08-17-2020 at 06:33 AM.
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Awesome, thanks for the detective work!
looks like it might be one of these, and that it replaces from the u-joint back
https://torkliftcentral.com/remco-driveshaft-disconnect
PM me if you take it off and want to sell it. Looks rusty but probably could be cleaned up
looks like it might be one of these, and that it replaces from the u-joint back
https://torkliftcentral.com/remco-driveshaft-disconnect
PM me if you take it off and want to sell it. Looks rusty but probably could be cleaned up
#17
Registered User
Happy to help! That definitely looks to be the one.
Realistically I won't be removing it until next year most likely, when I do my 5 speed swap. I'm still trying to track down a transmission with tcase, and the clutch pedal assembly, and a manual DS. If I can source all my parts I may do the swap this winter. I would gladly ship it no charge if you cover shipping costs, I'll keep you posted.
Realistically I won't be removing it until next year most likely, when I do my 5 speed swap. I'm still trying to track down a transmission with tcase, and the clutch pedal assembly, and a manual DS. If I can source all my parts I may do the swap this winter. I would gladly ship it no charge if you cover shipping costs, I'll keep you posted.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Happy to help! That definitely looks to be the one.
Realistically I won't be removing it until next year most likely, when I do my 5 speed swap. I'm still trying to track down a transmission with tcase, and the clutch pedal assembly, and a manual DS. If I can source all my parts I may do the swap this winter. I would gladly ship it no charge if you cover shipping costs, I'll keep you posted.
Realistically I won't be removing it until next year most likely, when I do my 5 speed swap. I'm still trying to track down a transmission with tcase, and the clutch pedal assembly, and a manual DS. If I can source all my parts I may do the swap this winter. I would gladly ship it no charge if you cover shipping costs, I'll keep you posted.
I asked if they could ship me the parts for a DIY install, they haven't gotten back to me...
At that price it would be cheaper to ship you a replacement transmission just to keep your project moving!
Thanks, and definitely keep me posted
#19
Registered User
Thanks! Remco just quoted me $2500 including installation
I asked if they could ship me the parts for a DIY install, they haven't gotten back to me...
At that price it would be cheaper to ship you a replacement transmission just to keep your project moving!
Thanks, and definitely keep me posted
I asked if they could ship me the parts for a DIY install, they haven't gotten back to me...
At that price it would be cheaper to ship you a replacement transmission just to keep your project moving!
Thanks, and definitely keep me posted
Let me know when that replacement trans is coming!
#20
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
I've installed (and removed) a rear disconnect that mounts to the t-case. My experiences:
It was easy to install. Just bolts.
It used a long center nut into the t-case. If it's not thread-locked, it'll loosen and vibrate like crazy.
I never added an in-cab control, but was (am?) planning on using a parking brake lever from something. They are cheap and available everywhere.
Apparently lithium grease in the collar/shoes and splines helps greatly with wear and rust. Though something that's exposed like that is bound to see some eventually.
The overall setup added an inch to the driveshaft length, so when I took it out, I just added a 1 inch spacer.
It was easy to install. Just bolts.
It used a long center nut into the t-case. If it's not thread-locked, it'll loosen and vibrate like crazy.
I never added an in-cab control, but was (am?) planning on using a parking brake lever from something. They are cheap and available everywhere.
Apparently lithium grease in the collar/shoes and splines helps greatly with wear and rust. Though something that's exposed like that is bound to see some eventually.
The overall setup added an inch to the driveshaft length, so when I took it out, I just added a 1 inch spacer.
Last edited by irab88; 08-26-2020 at 09:27 PM.
The following users liked this post:
5 Fists (08-27-2020)