Crankshaft Pulley Bolt
#1
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt
THOSE ANYBODY KNOW HOW I CAN REMOVE THE DARN BOLT TO THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY??? TRIED A 1/2 INCH PNEAUMATIC GUN, NO LUCK .ANY SPECIAL TOOL I CAN MAKE OR PURCHASE?.92 4RUNNER 3.0 V6 AND WHAT DOES THE SR5 STAND FOR DAAHH!! HELP THANKS TO ANYONE WHO CAN HELP ME.......
#3
if you search 'crankshaft bolt' you'll find a massive amount of info on this. Everyone has a different method, but i found the best was to build a tool which replicated the SST. Just remember that you have to re torque the bolt once you put the pulley back on.
As I understand it SR5 stands for Sport Rally 5speed. Search button is your friend.
As I understand it SR5 stands for Sport Rally 5speed. Search button is your friend.
#4
not all sr5s are 5speed so i dont think thats what it means. anyway as for re torque you should be able to just put the truck in a low gear like 5th if you have a stick then torque it down. you dont need the sst tool to do this step
#5
Crankshaft Bolt
Use a semi-deep 19mm (3/4"), 1/2" drive impact socket and a stout breaker bar that is longer than about 15". Put the tool on the bolt and the end of the breaker bar along the right (passenger) side frame rail. Disconnect the coil wire [I]from the coil.[I] Crank the engine over using the starter. The wrench will hit the frame rail hard enough to break the bolt loose. As far as getting the harmonic balancer off, use two long pry bars on either side of the pulley and GENTLY pry against the timing cover. This works no matter what Toyota engine you are working on.
#6
Use a semi-deep 19mm (3/4"), 1/2" drive impact socket and a stout breaker bar that is longer than about 15". Put the tool on the bolt and the end of the breaker bar along the right (passenger) side frame rail. Disconnect the coil wire [I]from the coil.[I] Crank the engine over using the starter. The wrench will hit the frame rail hard enough to break the bolt loose. As far as getting the harmonic balancer off, use two long pry bars on either side of the pulley and GENTLY pry against the timing cover. This works no matter what Toyota engine you are working on.
#7
thats also a very dangerous way to do it so if you do that be carefull for the harmonic balacer if you use the pry bars you can easily break the teeth off it so also thats a cheep way and likely to break it way. buy a small puller to do that. youll have to get two long metric bolts to use with the puller but its well worth it to get the tools to do the job right.
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#8
What does SR5 mean?
In the latter part of the 1970's, the SR5 connotation denoted an option code for the HiLux series of trucks, similar to what the Z71 option code currently means for an upgraded Chevy or GMC pickup or Tahoe/Yukon.
Originally released around 1975, the 'S' denoted Sport, 'R' denoted the RN motor code, and '5' denoted the 5-speed transmission. It quickly caught on and the SR5 connotation passed onto the Corolla and then onto other Toyota car models.
Today, the SR5 generally denotes a specific Toyota trim level, with a more sporty look and wide flexibility for options.
(Thanks to Dianne Whitmire at Carson Toyota and ToyotaOffRoad.com for the historical information.)
Works everytime for me. I can't see at all how it could be "very dangerous". That's a load of bull, I've never heard anybody having trouble doing it.
Last edited by MudHippy; 11-24-2007 at 06:04 PM.
#9
if you breaker bar were to snap while doing this it could easily hurt you or anyone near thus being dangerous. Sorry fore adding VERY maybe like could be however this happend to me while removing a crank bolt on my subaru so the load of bull you call it has been proven. im sure it works a great deal of the time just think about it... theres a reason why sst's are made to do the job right
#10
Never say never...I guess. A subaru has nothin' to do with it though. Who knows why that happened, I'd suspect a shoddy tool. Anyway, don't prove nothin' in my book pal!
Breaker bar snapping at 180ft.lbs. though? I think it should take a bit more than that. Maybe if you let it wind-up first by not resting it on the frame rail prior to engaging the starter. I mean come on...my cheapo torque wrench goes to 160ft.lbs., and it's nowhere near as stout as a breaker bar(my breaker bar's probably 2x as thick). I'm pretty sure you'll snap sockets or strip the bolt before you snap the breaker bar on this one. IMO.
Here's a $26 breaker bar rated for more than 500ft.lbs.
http://www.toolsource.com/super-brea...=trafficleader
Try breakin' that!
Breaker bar snapping at 180ft.lbs. though? I think it should take a bit more than that. Maybe if you let it wind-up first by not resting it on the frame rail prior to engaging the starter. I mean come on...my cheapo torque wrench goes to 160ft.lbs., and it's nowhere near as stout as a breaker bar(my breaker bar's probably 2x as thick). I'm pretty sure you'll snap sockets or strip the bolt before you snap the breaker bar on this one. IMO.
Here's a $26 breaker bar rated for more than 500ft.lbs.
http://www.toolsource.com/super-brea...=trafficleader
Try breakin' that!
Last edited by MudHippy; 11-19-2007 at 08:21 PM.
#11
the socket shot off with the 3/4 drive and i just used the subaru as to what vehicle ive tried it on and yes i know that doesnt really matter. when you use tools alot like myself it can happen. I dont use shoddy tools it was just a one in a million thing. I was just warning him on what could happen and like you state never say never. When you dive into building motors you might aswell buy the right tool for the job. By the way if you dont have that breacker set perfect your gonna put way more that 180ft.lbs with your starter. you could move a vehicle with a starter and if im not mistaken thats a bit more than 180
Chiba you can try this method and im sure it will work for you just be carfull thats all im saying
Chiba you can try this method and im sure it will work for you just be carfull thats all im saying
Last edited by fillsrunner4; 11-19-2007 at 10:25 PM.
#12
I also had problems getting that bolt off, even using the breaker bar on the frame and crank the starter method. Someone here on YT suggested that I hold the pulley with a chain wrench, which is a plumbing tool. I got one for around $20 at Harbor Freight and it worked great. Make sure to put some kind of rubber, like an old intertube, around the pulley so the chain wrench does not eat into it. I put a quality 6 point socket on a quality breaker bar that was supported on the frame, put the transmission in neutral, and then turned the pulley with the chain wrench and the bolt came loose. If I remember correctly, I also put a piece of tubing on the end of the pipe wrench for more leverage.
#13
the socket shot off with the 3/4 drive and i just used the subaru as to what vehicle ive tried it on and yes i know that doesnt really matter. when you use tools alot like myself it can happen. I dont use shoddy tools it was just a one in a million thing. I was just warning him on what could happen and like you state never say never. When you dive into building motors you might aswell buy the right tool for the job. By the way if you dont have that breacker set perfect your gonna put way more that 180ft.lbs with your starter. you could move a vehicle with a starter and if im not mistaken thats a bit more than 180
Chiba you can try this method and im sure it will work for you just be carfull thats all im saying
Chiba you can try this method and im sure it will work for you just be carfull thats all im saying
#14
hello Again Fellows, I Tried The Crank The Starter ,and Using The Breaker Bar , But No Luck Will Attempt The Plumbers Wrench Idea And Will Let You Know. Thanks Again For All Of Your Ideas In This Matter ..chiba
#19
gentlemen My Troubles Are Over, Removing The Crankshaft Pulley.i Removed The The Power Steering Pulley Bolts 4 Of Them,along With The( Psp).it Exposed The Crankshaft Pulley.i Them Secured One End Of The Chain With The Bolt From The (psp)to The Crankshaft Pulley , Wrapped The Chain Around The Chassie Right Side If Yuor Facing The Engine.took The Chain And Secured The Other End To The Crankpulley .somewhere Where The Chain Crosses Over Each Other , I Secured The Chain With A Bolt,washers,and Nut As To Keep The Chain From Rotating As Your Using Your 19mm Socket With Braker Bar To Loosen The Bolt.i Tried The Stater Idea No Luck,the Pipe Wrench Idea Cost At Least$35.00 The 1/2 Inch Air Gun No Space. The Chain Idea Extra Parts Around The Garage.priceless..note I Used A Extension Bar On The Breaker Bar For Leverage..it Eas Like Butter!!!!! I Wiil Put A Drawing On Once I Figure How To Do It???