Coolant Leak Metal Pipe
07-08-2011, 10:16 PM
#21
Starter Relay is the lil box on the passenger fenderwall inside the engine bay, right next to the Injector Resistor(thing that looks like a lil amplifier, lol) The Starter Relay SHOULD SAY "Starter Relay" right on it, unless it's worn off 'SOMEHOW'? lol. Not sure that's very likely, ...but I THINK you can test it when it's acting up, using a multi-meter, to rule it out.
Did you find it fixed your issue by replacing the main wire to the battery?
The plug, as I said, that lil one that has a connector on it, ...I've just seen them have breaks in them, etc. DOES NOT mean yours might/could/probably does. They sometimes get forgotten during installations after builds, etc., cuz it's small... sometimes they can pull out the back of the connector. I doubt that's your issue, but easy to check/verify.
Did you find it fixed your issue by replacing the main wire to the battery?
The plug, as I said, that lil one that has a connector on it, ...I've just seen them have breaks in them, etc. DOES NOT mean yours might/could/probably does. They sometimes get forgotten during installations after builds, etc., cuz it's small... sometimes they can pull out the back of the connector. I doubt that's your issue, but easy to check/verify.
07-09-2011, 03:54 PM
#23
RIGHT ON, Great news, man! 
If you wind up with issues with starting, .... hit this thread up again, I'll leave it subscribed.
PS> Don't forget to post the solution to your leak, etc. You DID NOT, I take it, find out exactly where it's leaking from just yet? Lil concerned you'll take a LONG TRIP and find out the hard way what an aluminum head does on an extremely overheating Cast Block due to a pin hole leak that turned into OLE FAITHFUL! lol.
If you wind up with issues with starting, .... hit this thread up again, I'll leave it subscribed.
PS> Don't forget to post the solution to your leak, etc. You DID NOT, I take it, find out exactly where it's leaking from just yet? Lil concerned you'll take a LONG TRIP and find out the hard way what an aluminum head does on an extremely overheating Cast Block due to a pin hole leak that turned into OLE FAITHFUL! lol.
07-10-2011, 06:51 AM
#24
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RIGHT ON, Great news, man!
If you wind up with issues with starting, .... hit this thread up again, I'll leave it subscribed.
PS> Don't forget to post the solution to your leak, etc. You DID NOT, I take it, find out exactly where it's leaking from just yet? Lil concerned you'll take a LONG TRIP and find out the hard way what an aluminum head does on an extremely overheating Cast Block due to a pin hole leak that turned into OLE FAITHFUL! lol.
If you wind up with issues with starting, .... hit this thread up again, I'll leave it subscribed.
PS> Don't forget to post the solution to your leak, etc. You DID NOT, I take it, find out exactly where it's leaking from just yet? Lil concerned you'll take a LONG TRIP and find out the hard way what an aluminum head does on an extremely overheating Cast Block due to a pin hole leak that turned into OLE FAITHFUL! lol.
THEN I get on the highway drive 20 miles back and the truck is starting to overheat (usually the gauge is about 1/4 from cold. So once it hits halfway I know its going to over heat soon. I wasn't far from home as I had just got off the highway. I get home I pop the hood and it my surprise the coolant overflow is filled the the brim with water. So I didn't lose ANY coolant but I overheated (almost) gauge was about 1/4 inch past halfway. Not really sure WTF is going on now.
FYI my thermostat is new from the stealership its a single stage? I know some people get duel or something fancy I didn't know then when I replaced it. Also the coolant temp sensor is new (not an OEM part). Additionally, the radiator says GM on it so its definitely not the original. I have never had problem with it overheating though so I don't think the radiator has a smaller capacity I think its actually bigger.
Usually, then I have this problem its because the coolant ran low and there is almost nothing in the overflow and its like bubbling. (only happened about 2 times before I knew what the problem was)
PS I also checked the starter relay??? Not really sure how to tell if its bad and all the fuses under the hood are good. Is there another fuse box under the dash I looked but didn't see one on the drivers side.
Thanks again
07-10-2011, 11:42 AM
#25
Ok so I'm very frustrated. Here is how my day went so far I went out to my truck filled the radiator with water because of the leak? (took about a quart to fill, I added NOTHING to the overflow) I drove about 20 miles (highway) truck sat for about 2 hours while I collected scrap metal. Then it wouldn't start. I would turn the key and the starter cranks for about 1-3 seconds and stops (cranks every time you turn the key) then I sanded down the ground(s) connectors on both ends. Truck didn't start. Same thing cranked for 1-3 seconds and stopped. I checked the brown clip wire looked good. I didn't have a voltmeter to check to see how much power the starter was getting. Then I just kept turning the key, eventually it turned the engine over but it took about 3-5 seconds with the engine sounding fuel starved and then it finally started.
THEN I get on the highway drive 20 miles back and the truck is starting to overheat (usually the gauge is about 1/4 from cold. So once it hits halfway I know its going to over heat soon. I wasn't far from home as I had just got off the highway. I get home I pop the hood and it my surprise the coolant overflow is filled the the brim with water. So I didn't lose ANY coolant but I overheated (almost) gauge was about 1/4 inch past halfway. Not really sure WTF is going on now.
Just over half way is not really overheating, but it's obvious to me that you have a blockage or resistance somewhere that's causing coolant to flow back into the overflow(If it can't cycle through the engine properly or a pipe or the radiator ESPECIALLY, ....it CAN cause it to quickly fill up the overflow(which is there 1. so you don't lose coolant and 2. so it can be sucked back into the system as it cools down and let's off pressure).
FYI my thermostat is new from the stealership its a single stage? (Doesn't really matter,..... while the dual is probably better, I've had the same stat in for 100K from the Dealer, ...not an issue, just tested it the other month and kept it as a spare as I swapped out for a new OEM/single stage stat). I know some people get duel or something fancy I didn't know then when I replaced it. Also the coolant temp sensor is new (not an OEM part).(Doesn't matter, usually, should work, even from Napa or Autozone....What I mean is, it's not gonna be a cause for alarm and it's NOT going to cause overheating) Additionally, the radiator says GM on it so its definitely not the original. I have never had problem with it overheating though so I don't think the radiator has a smaller capacity I think its actually bigger.(It could be a 20 row UNIMOG Radiator.... doesn't matter if it's clogged. Since you obviously didn't put it in, PO did, right?... Then I'd take the time to either have it tested for blockage..... NOT EXPENSIVE INSURANCE, ya know?. If you need a new radiator, most go to Radiatorbarn.com I believe. I found a local vendor that is the only one who has the Factory Casting and uses the Factory parts at OEM or better, and ESPECIALLY no "PLASTIC" in it. Mine also has the hose 4 inches over on the bottom one, which is something to do with a tow package special radiator.... BTW, my OEM Radiator lasted 260,000 Miles, dang near! Not sure GM is any worse, but it might not be designed for the same pressure your system needs, nor would the cap be? Takes 10 Minutes to pull the radiator and to be honest, it's very much so, 90%, the cause for pressure back up and overheating..... maybe the POwner used the GM one cuz that's all he had? Maybe not? Who knows, gotta rule it out, right?)
Usually, then I have this problem its because the coolant ran low and there is almost nothing in the overflow and its like bubbling. (only happened about 2 times before I knew what the problem was)
PS I also checked the starter relay??? Not really sure how to tell if its bad and all the fuses under the hood are good. Is there another fuse box under the dash I looked but didn't see one on the drivers side.
Thanks again
THEN I get on the highway drive 20 miles back and the truck is starting to overheat (usually the gauge is about 1/4 from cold. So once it hits halfway I know its going to over heat soon. I wasn't far from home as I had just got off the highway. I get home I pop the hood and it my surprise the coolant overflow is filled the the brim with water. So I didn't lose ANY coolant but I overheated (almost) gauge was about 1/4 inch past halfway. Not really sure WTF is going on now.
Just over half way is not really overheating, but it's obvious to me that you have a blockage or resistance somewhere that's causing coolant to flow back into the overflow(If it can't cycle through the engine properly or a pipe or the radiator ESPECIALLY, ....it CAN cause it to quickly fill up the overflow(which is there 1. so you don't lose coolant and 2. so it can be sucked back into the system as it cools down and let's off pressure).
FYI my thermostat is new from the stealership its a single stage? (Doesn't really matter,..... while the dual is probably better, I've had the same stat in for 100K from the Dealer, ...not an issue, just tested it the other month and kept it as a spare as I swapped out for a new OEM/single stage stat). I know some people get duel or something fancy I didn't know then when I replaced it. Also the coolant temp sensor is new (not an OEM part).(Doesn't matter, usually, should work, even from Napa or Autozone....What I mean is, it's not gonna be a cause for alarm and it's NOT going to cause overheating) Additionally, the radiator says GM on it so its definitely not the original. I have never had problem with it overheating though so I don't think the radiator has a smaller capacity I think its actually bigger.(It could be a 20 row UNIMOG Radiator.... doesn't matter if it's clogged. Since you obviously didn't put it in, PO did, right?... Then I'd take the time to either have it tested for blockage..... NOT EXPENSIVE INSURANCE, ya know?. If you need a new radiator, most go to Radiatorbarn.com I believe. I found a local vendor that is the only one who has the Factory Casting and uses the Factory parts at OEM or better, and ESPECIALLY no "PLASTIC" in it. Mine also has the hose 4 inches over on the bottom one, which is something to do with a tow package special radiator.... BTW, my OEM Radiator lasted 260,000 Miles, dang near! Not sure GM is any worse, but it might not be designed for the same pressure your system needs, nor would the cap be? Takes 10 Minutes to pull the radiator and to be honest, it's very much so, 90%, the cause for pressure back up and overheating..... maybe the POwner used the GM one cuz that's all he had? Maybe not? Who knows, gotta rule it out, right?)
Usually, then I have this problem its because the coolant ran low and there is almost nothing in the overflow and its like bubbling. (only happened about 2 times before I knew what the problem was)
PS I also checked the starter relay??? Not really sure how to tell if its bad and all the fuses under the hood are good. Is there another fuse box under the dash I looked but didn't see one on the drivers side.
Thanks again
You said it seemed to be starving for fuel? (Like, it was trying to start, but just wouldn't POP over, right?) That can OFTEN be the C.O.R.... which is in your glove box area, above the ECU. DO NOT JUST CHANGE IT, you might not need it. I had a problem starting after coming to a stop,......exactly what my issue was, but that means NOTHING, often, to the 'next guys issues'....JUST something to test, ya know? It's a relay that opens and completes the circuit for the fuel pump(which is also turning on through the AFM, etc.)... Go to Google(not being a smart ass, promise) and type in '4crawler, cheap tricks, COR' or '4crawler, cheap tricks, fuel pump bypass'..... HE HAS TONS of write ups, and he's quite the guru, Troupe! He shows you how to bypass the COR and thus, find out if it's an issue. Mine was SO HOT I could barely touch it, ...but that doesn't mean yours would be, even if it was the problem, which we can't know it is/isn't until you rule it out, right?
Maybe start a new thread just for the "Hard To Start When Hot" portion of your trucks issues, eh? I bet you'd get more hits, and I'm not a one man wrecking ball, ...I don't wanna lead you astray from what could be a more obviously thing to the next guy, right? If you do start a new thread for the starting stuff.... post the link here or let me know here, ok?
PS> There IS a test in the Haynes even, let alone the FSM, for the C.O.R.. Just not sure on the Starter Relay(I believe you test the starter one from the ECU, or at least you CAN, because there is a "STA" test pin in the ECU that you test BEFORE turning the key to On, then WHILE just turning it to click, etc..... but keep digging, you'll get it, Trouper!
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