I just did my timing set, I followed this bolt torque diagram which shows the oil pump to get 14 ft-lbs, and hidden bolt to get 14 as well.


Today, I found this diagram which says it's updated 3/28/14 and shows 9 ft-lbs on all oil pump and hidden bolt:



The updated LCE diagram agrees with the FSM copy I have - 9 ft-lbs all around:



And then there is the following post FROM HERE
Those numbers are:
18 ft-lbs for top bolt with sealant
14 ft-lbs for sides
9 ft-lbs for bottom


That's 3 different torque values from 3 different sources, and LCE seems to have revised their numbers - anyone know why??

I used the ENGNBLDR 4 piece kit, and followed the first diagram above where the oil pump got 14 ft-lbs instead of 9. The top hidden bolt got 14 instead of 9, too. My timing cover job seems OK, on the other hand I do have A NEW GEAR WHINE NOISE I never noticed before. I haven't had time yet to rule out idler pulleys.

Why the discrepancies, have I screwed something up on my timing set, and should I go loosen the bolts and put everything to the 9 ft-lbs per the newer diagram that agrees with the FSM?THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!

 

Trying to remember but I think I used 12lbs for all 8mm bolts That was the spec starting out on assembling the head which was the first thing I assembled. [new cam] I think 9 is too low but it is in aluminum. Once you have set them to 12 or more do not loosen them up.
Gear whine? Make sure your tensioner is pushing against the chain with some spring force. The 8mm bolts I torqued to 9 was the tensioner bolts. Forgot to mention that. The tensioner is sensitive to too much torque, I think I used 90 inch pounds and tested it to make sure it was not binding.

 

No you didn't screw anything up. You will be just fine. You should read some of Dyno Don's notes about engine assembly. Even ARP will give you the lowdown on bolt torque and how much it can vary.

As long as its tight and not stripping, you are Ok. Its not a high stepping race engine.

 

That's exactly how they are, different torque for all the different size bolts. Just snug them all up by hand if a torque wrench is not available.

 

I don't remember what I decided 1.5 years ago when I asked the question, but I think I just left everything as-is torqued to the top diagram. I don't think I've had any problems from the timing set.

I drive it everyday and it is meeting minimum expectations. But I do have a loud valve train (or rod knock) so it sounds like a diesel, it was hard to start all summer and has a not perfect pickup coil or coil, the fuel lines freeze once the weather gets super cold, and there is consistently a light sheen of oil in my coolant. With a little luck, this timing set job was the last big motor project I'll be doing to a 22RE.

 

Someone used your post as a link to ask a question and without thinking I responded to your post. Sorry to dig this up.
Rod knock, hard starting, and a little oil in the coolant among other things. Your timing set may not be the last project on that engine?

 

Hey no problem I'm glad it got a few responses - that makes it a better reference for folks doing the job later.

Yes I'd really like to replace the 22RE with something more fun. Just trying to figure out how to make a V8 fit without shelling out big money.