Michael Brozick

currently trying to get my clutch to build pressure. brand new master and slave cylinder and brand new clutch. actually in the middle of 3.4 swapping and this is one of the last things I need to do. any help would be appreciated. there are no leaks anywhere that I can see or hear.

Blueman

I'd start with ensuring you've completely bled the system to ensure there's no air between the master and slave cylinders.

moto809

I wound up getting a vacuum bleeder to do mine, and I had to put teflon tape on the bleeder screw threads so no air could leak past them. It worked like a charm after replacing the rubber hose section.

Michael Brozick

good Idea I threw pipe tape around the bleeder cause I thought it was leaking. ill throw some on the line fittings too. get like a steel braided line to replace that rubber section or is there a better option? just frustrating ya know I got the engine running and n ow the darn clutch doesn't work.

moto809

The line fittings don't need tape since they're inverted flare fittings. The rubber hose is fine, mine was original at 27 years old. It really sounds like you just need to get the system bled out.

akwheeler

If you didn't bench bleed the clutch master cylinder it will take forever to get the air out.
if the pedal pushrod is adjusted too tight the master cylinder won't fully return to the at rest position and it won't bleed at all.

moto809

Michael Brozick

the odd thing is I've bleed it really well, it won't build any pressure when bled only way I got any resistance in the pedal was when I reverse bled it. pushed fluid through the bleeder up to the master cylinder then. Put a socket in the slave and used a clamp to depress the rod and then it only built pressure then never built again when we tried to bleed it. ill continue to bleed it but its just weird that I can't get any pressure on the pedal when I've pumped about 30 40 50 times.

Michael Brozick

sounds like a plan ill give her a go after work

Michael Brozick

I appreciate the help guys thank you

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

It's important to note over extending a master cylinder tends to damage the seals, aka if you let it extend to far you've damaged the o-ring and now you have to start all over after your rebuild the unit.

akwheeler

Don't you mean slave cylinder? the master cylinder has a c- clip that keeps it from over-extending.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Just in general! Pushing an oring past its normal range of motion runs the risk of it hitting a rough spot or coke which will tear it..

Without gauges to measure, the cheep test is to put a cap on the line out of the master. If you can mash the pedal and it doesn't stop you've probably got bad seals. Or then you need a different cap for the slave end of the line, doesn't stop here you've got hose expansion. If all these came to a hard stop your problem is the slave. I'm not sure what a hydraulic guage set costs put in general you can get caps for 10-20?

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

sounds like there is still air in the line, probably trapped up high near the master.

there is a way to get the air out. fully depress the pedal using your hand (leave the bleeder closed on the slave). slide your hand sideways off the pedal to allow it to “snap” upwards into the engaged position. repeat this until you feel some resistance in the pedal (might take 6 or 8 cycles), now go ahead and bleed the line at the slave.

Blueman

I recently replaced the master cylinder on my '87 with MT5 and that snap-release method worked quite well to bleed the system. So well, in fact, that's all I needed to use and the system works well.

As other mentioned, be sure you've set the pushrod into the master cylinder so there is a slight bit of slack in the system when the pedal is at the top.