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Just make sure you put everything back in the same order. I found out the hard way that if you bolt the crossmember back up you're not gonna be able to get the diff in!
Be sure to let your FIPG cure for about 15 minutes before you install... ..
Could you be confusing FIPG with RTV? The whole point of using FIPG is that it sets up VERY fast (like 5 minutes). So you need to get everything put together finally in that time, or you'll have no adhesion.
RTV will take overnight to set. With RTV, put it together at a reasonable pace, snug the bolts hand-tight, and final torque the next morning.
The fast set of FIPG is important if you're a professional mechanic, and you have to drive the vehicle out of the bay to start work on the next one. Me, I'm not a professional, and I couldn't count on getting an oil pan back on correctly in the few minutes FIPG allows. So I like the extra "open" time RTV allows, and it doesn't bother me to wait overnight to finish the job.
Could you be confusing FIPG with RTV? The whole point of using FIPG is that it sets up VERY fast (like 5 minutes). So you need to get everything put together finally in that time, or you'll have no adhesion.
RTV will take overnight to set. With RTV, put it together at a reasonable pace, snug the bolts hand-tight, and final torque the next morning.
The fast set of FIPG is important if you're a professional mechanic, and you have to drive the vehicle out of the bay to start work on the next one. Me, I'm not a professional, and I couldn't count on getting an oil pan back on correctly in the few minutes FIPG allows. So I like the extra "open" time RTV allows, and it doesn't bother me to wait overnight to finish the job.
thank you for classifying... yes I was talking about Ultra Black Silicone
Looking pretty good down here! The rear main seal retainer came in about 6:45pm and I went ahead and installed so the Permatex could cure up over night and I could put oil back in the motor tomorrow.
Tomorrow will be the install! Hoping if I get a good start on it that it could be done tomorrow and I'll have my daily back in action. Flywheel, clutch, clutch cover, trans and slave cylinder. Starter. Drive shafts. Prime the slave and could be backing her out the shed!
So everything went well, the only mistake I had on the install was putting the 4x shifter locking ring in the wrong spot. I was knackered after about 9 hours of cramped, crusty, dusty, greasy work. I took it for a spin and had to use 4x to get up the hill, then it got stuck in 4 lo because the shifter popped out! Luckily a quick and easy fix though.
Ran it around locally the first day then took it a little further and today ran to the westside and hour and a half drive and then cruised 4x4 on the beach and everything felt great. Gotta say the new clutch feels amazing and explains some of the issues I was having with lack of power and the cruise control. Hoping it goes at least another 50k or more.
I had a lot of down time between the tear down and waiting on parts to install so I did a bunch of other maintenance. All three new belts (which need a snugging up after driving due to stretch and occasional slip) oil change and new filter, new ram air intake install, dropped and reinstalled the oil pan (cleaned, rust treated, and painted) and pulled the valve cover and adjusted the valves.
In total I did the tear down in one day and the install in another. That without a trans jack, any help, and only manual tools. I actually bought an impact driver but the air compressor I had couldn't power it to do anything worthwhile. I spent about $370 on parts for the clutch kit (throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch disc and pressure plate) new flywheel, new rear main housing bracket, gasket, and rear main seal. It would have been closer to 250 if I had been able to get the rear main seal out of the housing without damaging it, but it was literally fused to it Throw in another 20 for slave cylinder and hydraulic line which were shot, and 20 or so for new links for the sway bar. and another 30 or so in wrenches and permatex etc.
I managed to drop the tranny (with the front drive shaft on... I couldn't get the bolts so just left it) using a regular jack with some wood bolted to it in place of the regular plate, a couple of ratchet straps (these I rigged across the frame to keep the trans stable. This was tricky but not too bad, it was like wrestling a bear for about an hour though lol! The install was a pita without trans jack but I had bought some jack stands which helped. I used the ratchet straps again and just little by little inched it up and in. Once in everything was pretty easy till I got to the starter. That thing is MOFUGGER hahaha. I'm sure there's tools to make it easier but Lord it is in a terrible place!
Pretty smooth sailing after that and the kit feels great. It's an Aisin Clutch Kit a LUK flywheel, toyota Rear main seal and RMS housing and pilot bearing, a felpro gasket behind the rms housing, and napa slave cylinder and line and front sway bar links.
If any one is in need of a Pilot bearing I have an extra one from the kit I had to return the first kit because the original one got damaged in shipping, which made me thing might as well throw a toyota one in and not wait another week. I also have an extra felpro rear main seal if anyone needs.
I got my parts through Amazon (clutch kit and flywheel) Ebay Toyota RMS and pilot bearing, Napa, and Autozone. And Yotashop.com (they were the only one's that had the rear main seal housing.) Belts came from 22reperformance.com
Next project on the list is snug up the belts, flush the radiator and heater core and fill with toyota coolant (it's got the green in now, but had a new radiator installed before I got the truck) I'm gonna also pull the fill plug from the trans and check the fluid level and put in a new bolt because the stock one is really hard to grab and will likely get chewed up in the removal.
After that I'm gonna do the front end (new cv axles, upper and lower ball joints, tie rods, idler and pitman arms, and wheel bearings. I figure if I'm gonna go in there might as well replace all the worn components so it can be properly aligned again.
Down the line I'd love to get rid of the rusted out exhaust that I've patched up temporarily and replace with LC engineering header and downstream kit. That'll take some coin that I just don't have right now though
About as tight a work space as you can get, but it beat working in the muddy grass and rain for a week straight.
The theme for this whole job was pretty much use what you can find! Before I got the jack stands I used two concrete pier blocks left over from a deck rebuild with some beam under neath and small ipe hardwood blocks on top. They worked great but were a massive pain to move around. As you can imagine they are very heavy! The jack was borrowed and really helped, but I couldn't have done it without the trusty stock bottle jack
Here's my "transmission jack" this is the original version. Later on I added a piece of wood under the 2x6 and a piece of 2x4 on top to add height to reach the tranny high enough to slip into the clutch. I also took one of the sides off to be able to get under that dang front drive shaft I couldn't get off. It did the job but if you can rent or borrow a trans jack you just better do that and save yourself a lot of time and frustration. There are also adapter plates that fit onto a regular jack. I would have bought one but didn't want to wait for it to ship. A cheap option for someone doing this job at home that has a regular floor jack.
Here I am on the final day, beyond relieved to be done and with everything working. I swear though you couldn't pay me to go through all the trouble this job was again! Makes me appreciate having the right tools, and a proper shop set up to do the work. This was the most challenging and technical job I've ever done (realistically it's a pretty simple but somewhat daunting job) After doing this though it's made me feel quite confident to do the CVs and front end component swap which I was avoiding! I also saved anywhere from 1100-2500 on labor costs. The best quote I had was for 550 for one day, but due to things breaking and parts needing to be ordered it was always gonna be a two day job (just for the clutch swap) hence the 1100
Happily back on the road! Love this rig. I know ram air kits probably don't add much hp, but it sounds great and I do feel like the motor is breathing better and pulling harder too. On the beach is felt great in 4x4 as the motor wasn't struggling as hard. (the clutch not slipping was huge too of course!)
The flywheel, totally beat and caked in clutch dust...
Clutch disc down to more than a few rivets!
another angle on the disc... or what's left of it
Clutch cover, YIKES!
Light at the end of the tunnel, a celebratory first day back on the road, and some good surf to boot
01-30-2021, 10:43 PM
Throw in another 20 for slave cylinder and hydraulic line which were shot, and 20 or so for new links for the sway bar. and another 30 or so in wrenches and permatex etc. 
