DupermanDave

I was able to get the bolt by the exhaust loose with just a socket and a wrench, but I have no clue how I'm supposed to get that second top bolt off.

If I remove the transmission cross member, will that tilt/lower the transmission so I can get to that top bolt from underneath?

pruney81

I got the two top bolts from the top, I had the engine jacked up a little bit.

DupermanDave

The engine or the transmission? Did you need to remove the engine mounts?

My chilton manual says to remove the cross member and let the transmission tilt a little bit to get the bolts out. I'm scared that my 22 year old engine mounts will be dried and cracked and crumble and rip when tilting.

SoCal4Running

The top 2 bolts are easily done with a wrench. The passenger side is WAY easier if you remove the EGR (good time to clean it). The drivers side is just a PITA on my 4runner because of all the coolant hoses.

DupermanDave

Uggh. I just had the EGR off to clean it a few months ago. Oh well. I guess I'll have to go that route since that seems to be the easiest. I've taken the EGR off so many times I can have it off in about 5 minutes. It's the gasket I hate making again.

DupermanDave

For future reference, it's much easier to remove the EGR and jack the transmission a bit to tilt the engine. That gave enough room for my arms and hands and I was able to get both bolts out.

shepherd2111

When i did the clutch in my 98 tacoma, I had like 4 long extensions and a universal with a breaker bar. I had to get the top bolt from under the driver side and over top the tranny with all those extensions. That was a pain.....

DupermanDave

I tried that. It was still much easier to squeeze in between the firewall and the engine.

Got the transmission partially removed. Right now it's balanced on a floor jack and a brick. Going to see about getting a transmission jack, because this is too hard with this balancing act.

dtroupe18

make sure when you use the alignment tool for the clutch you push it in as far as it will go otherwise everything will not line up correctly when you go to put it back together.

Also make sure you tighten the bolts on the pressure plate in a "criss-cross" pattern, like lugs nuts. It needs to have even pressure all the way around.

DupermanDave

I'm stuck. I got a transmission jack and I have the transmission lifted up, but it won't seem to come loose. I have about 2 inches of space between the bell housing and the engine, but I can't seem to wiggle or shake the thing free. If I lower the transmission jack, the rear of the transmission lowers all the way to the ground, but won't "break free."

I tried jacking up the front end of the bell housing and raising the rear and then pulling, but that's not working.

What other things can I try?

PismoJoe

You just need to get a friend and wiggle the crap out of it. The key is just to get the right angle with your transmission jack.

I wouldn't drop the tranny that far with it 2" from the engine, you could damage the input shaft. Just try to keep it level with the engine, get a buddy, and wiggle/pull on it like it owes you money

DupermanDave

Nah, it isn't giving me my money. Wiggling and wiggling and yelling...and pulling muscles that shouldn't be pulled. I saw it was catching on the pressure plate, so I lifted the front so it wasn't catching, but it still won't slide back. It looks like the top of the bell housing is clashing with the underbelly of the body, so I tried lowering it a bit and pulled. Still no joy. There's about 3 inches of separation now between the bell housing and the engine. I can almost fit my fist in there and I can clearly see the flywheel and pressure plate.

PismoJoe

Hmm I don't know what to tell you...

With it that far away from the engine, you definitely got all the bolts.

The odd thing is that if you can clearly see the PP, the input shaft should already be out.

Just check to see if you missed anything

Wish I could help more...

EDIT: if you're doing the clutch by yourself (which I unfortunately have to do alot, thanks "friends") I would drop the transfer case. It takes a lot of weight off, and its much easier to get the transmission in and out this way if you are by yourself.

DupermanDave

I really should have removed the transfer case, since most of the struggling I was doing to balance it was caused by the t-case.

I finally got the engine apart after giving up and not caring what ai break or damage. I just shook it violently from left to right, which seemed to do the trick. Before I was shaking it back and fourth. I think it was banging against the body of the truck. It's a tight fit between the bell housing and the lower part of the truck. I got it lowered and it looks like crap. The entire inside is covered with oil and dirt. I got a picture that I'll upload in a bit. It doesn't smell like gear oil and it could possibly be regular motor oil. The transmission input seal seems to be fine, but I may replace it anyway. The pressure plate and flywheel look fine. No broken fingers on the pressure plate and no sign of oil contamination. Maybe there's a main seal leak on the engine on the other side. I'll take a look tomorrow after I get more shop towels and parts cleaner.

Day 1: got everything apart and the transmission/engine separated
Day 2: lowered transmission (yes, all day just to lower it.)
Day 3 (tomorrow): clean the parts and install the new clutch.

SoCal4Running

Dont think dropping it was the hard part. Its far easier to unbolt and yank than line up and push.

Its not to late to separate the T-case like my earlier post and the last one here suggested. It removes about half the weight and is not nearly the balancing act when reinstalling.

The hardest part is going to be to line up the input shaft and have the trans at the right angle both horizontal and vertical, and by yourself trust me it is easier to work with 2 smaller pieces than 1 big one.

Also slip the pilot bearing over the input shaft before pressing it into the crank so you know 100% that it fits.

DupermanDave

If I separate the t-case, will it leak fluid? Is there a gasket that will need to be replaced? I didn't drain the transmission fluid when I pulled it (though I will when I get it propped up and cleaned up.)

I know how it is to line up a transmission with an engine. I did one clutch before with only a floor jack. THis time I have a transmission jack, which is great for balancing and aiming it properly. I also removed and installed the subaru engine 3 times in one week (yes, pulled and installed it 3 times in 5 days. Long story.)

I do have another question: how do you guys get the flywheel to not rotate when you remove the flywheel bolts?

PismoJoe

Yes, it will leak.

On the older toyotas (pre-tacoma) the transmission and transfer case are sealed off of each other being mated together. So you MUST drain both.

On the newer toyotas (starting with tacomas) The transfer case is individually sealed, but the transmission is sealed by the transfer case being mated to it. So you MUST drain the transmission.

For the flywheel, you need to take a wrench and put it on one of the protruding pieces that the PP slips onto, but in a position where the wrench will lock up the flywheel. If there is red loc-tite, good luck and get a torch to put some heat on the bolts so you can remove them.

If that makes sense

SoCal4Running

The TC has an input seal just like the transmission. There is a possibility that the fluid from the trans will leak out that spot. There is also a mating gasket that between the TC and the trans but it is purely a dry gasket designed to keep birds and small children out. Good time for the oil change.

I use a impact to get the flywheel bolts off and then lightly impact them back on and finish with a torque wrench. You can wedge a breaker bar on the frame like how you get the crank pulley bolt loose to keep it from turning.

I dont doubt your abilities after saying you dealt with a Scubi, I took the trans out of my Outback and I would rather loose my left N_t than do that again.

DupermanDave

Ahhhh. Impact wrench. I didn't think of that. We do have one of those around, so I'll try that. I've already tried bracing the flywheel with a crowbar, but it keeps falling and wedging itself out of place.

How much fluid will come out when separating the t-case and tranny? A drop or two? A small river?

SoCal4Running

It shouldnt be too much unless you have the tail end pointing down hill or somthing. Either have some rags handy.