clutch replacement
10-09-2009, 09:01 PM
#21
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i'll pee in a bottle and sell it to you for $5 a bottle.. it'll have the same affect. and it's cheaper
10-09-2009, 10:05 PM
#23
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You take off the t case, you have to reseal it. Just drop the x member. The balance point is right in front of the x member. I replaced my clutch with crap floor jack that only went up a ft and some wood.
10-09-2009, 10:27 PM
#24
my first clutch change i did i just used ropes/straps to suspend the tranny in the air while i swapped the clutch, on my last one i inded up welding up a tranny jack out of scrap metal and an old jack.
10-20-2009, 11:32 AM
#26
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94' 4x4 pickup - just about to do mine this coming weekend... A few people have said to jack up the engine before removing the tranny, is that necessary and if so, what is the best way to support it so i can use the jack for the tranny?
10-20-2009, 12:41 PM
#27
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Get a tranny jack for the trannsmission, it really helps out. So does another person.
10-20-2009, 12:57 PM
#28
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If you want some more pics of how to do it check out my thread, also I didn't read the whole thread but has some one told you to replace the rear main seal while you are in there? Its worth the extra time and little $ for the peace of mind.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ke-2-a-177863/
10-20-2009, 03:31 PM
#30
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No, I didn't jack up the engine. I did get one of those cheap-o tranny supports that mount to your jack though(got it from harbor freight) was worth the 50 bucks..... Just make sure if you get one, you know the size of the pin on the bottom of that little cup thats on your jack. My 2 3/4 ton jack wasnt the same as theirs, So I had to make a sleeve to fit over the pin. If you plan on doing work on the tranny, you cant get out from under the truck on one of those things, so you will have to put it on jack stands. ( didnt matter to me though, i wasnt messin with mine so I just rolled it back)
10-20-2009, 07:14 PM
#31
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the engine needs to be supported from the rear while you're working a clutch job or it will rotate. I don't know, I guess maybe one of your heater hoses will hold it up, dude.
the jack and block of wood under the pan will usually suffice, but if you've got a cork oil pan gasket, be aware that you might end up changing that in the not too distant future if you choose this method; the weight of the engine can squish it out. I stopped using cork pan gaskets a long time ago. Permatex The Right Stuff or any other Form In Place Gasket sealer will work. not that this will be an issue if you support the engine from above with a hoist or some other contraption like you're supposed to. NOTE: the heater hose bit was a joke
Last edited by yodta; 10-20-2009 at 07:31 PM.
11-20-2009, 11:37 AM
#32
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i'm about to do my clutch this weekend on my 94'. Seems to be some conflicting advise about supports and how to align the tranny while re-installing. I have limited funds and already have to buy a floor jack for this job. Dont ask me why i dont have one already but yea.
Would it be best to support the rear of the motor with a rachet strap from above or just a bottle jack and some wood from the bottom? Should it have a little slack so it can move while re-installing? Also, is the tranny jack really needed or would a floor jack and a wood block do the job?
94' 3.0 4x4 ext cab
Would it be best to support the rear of the motor with a rachet strap from above or just a bottle jack and some wood from the bottom? Should it have a little slack so it can move while re-installing? Also, is the tranny jack really needed or would a floor jack and a wood block do the job?
94' 3.0 4x4 ext cab
11-23-2009, 11:15 AM
#33
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i am definately going to buy a trany jack, it just makes sense to have that with all the potential alignment issues durring re-install. Given that, i can use my floor jack to support my motor, even if it may or may not be needed.
Thanks for the advise, hopefully i do it right.
Thanks for the advise, hopefully i do it right.
11-23-2009, 07:36 PM
#34
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When I replaced my clutch, I had the tranny and t case out for 2 days...the motor was just fine and wasnt hanging down.
03-20-2010, 11:41 AM
#35
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Help!!!
I guess I should intro myself im jason a newbie just replacing my clutch for the first time. i have everything replaced but i cant get the tranny up and lined up ive all but given up anybody with help PLEASE
03-20-2010, 07:34 PM
#36
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Are you using a clutch alignment tool?
Is it 4x4, if so consider taking the Transfer Case off it will make it more manageable and there is a seal you could change while it separated.
Did you change the pilot bearing? I have seen some where the input shaft of the trans needed to be very slightly hand filed to fit into the new bearing.
Is it 4x4, if so consider taking the Transfer Case off it will make it more manageable and there is a seal you could change while it separated.
Did you change the pilot bearing? I have seen some where the input shaft of the trans needed to be very slightly hand filed to fit into the new bearing.
Last edited by SoCal4Running; 08-03-2010 at 09:17 PM.
07-18-2010, 06:11 PM
#38
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New heavy duty clutch has been ordered from marlin crawler. The project is scheduled 2 weekends from now (just recovering from a subaru engine removal/installation (3 times I pulled that engine in a week ))
Anyway, there's two options for replacing the clutch: remove the transmission or lift the engine out. I have an engine hoist ready to use, but I don't have a transmission jack. I am definitely willing to buy a transmission jack, but which of these two options would be the easiest? I don't have A/C, cruise control, or anything too extra on the engine. It looks like the only things that need to be removed are the coolant lines, engine mounts, and maybe the fuel lines. Plus, it's be nice not to be on my back all day.
Which would be the best/easiest route? I'm also looking to replace the rear main seal while I'm at it, since I think it may be leaking oil onto the clutch disc.
Anyway, there's two options for replacing the clutch: remove the transmission or lift the engine out. I have an engine hoist ready to use, but I don't have a transmission jack. I am definitely willing to buy a transmission jack, but which of these two options would be the easiest? I don't have A/C, cruise control, or anything too extra on the engine. It looks like the only things that need to be removed are the coolant lines, engine mounts, and maybe the fuel lines. Plus, it's be nice not to be on my back all day.
Which would be the best/easiest route? I'm also looking to replace the rear main seal while I'm at it, since I think it may be leaking oil onto the clutch disc.
08-03-2010, 02:53 PM
#39
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Okay. Just started digging into the project and need some help. I've gotten the drive shafts off, the transmission cross member is still attached, and the starter is out. Basically I just need to remove the transmission bolts and the cross member and it's ready to go. But I'm stuck. I got all of the lower and side bolts loose, but the top two (are there two?) bolts I cannot for the life of me get loose. I can't even get the socket in there to get the bolt off. How do you guys manage that?
