Which Clutch
#1
Which Clutch
So I searched and couldn't find much info on peoples personal preference (wow that's a tongue twister lol) on which clutch they prefer. And all the other info was so overwhelming that it just confused me more lol.
Here's the scoop, I use my 4Runner mostly for fun driving and for offroading (no real DD purposes anymore).
Which clutch would you recommend and why?
I was thinking about running the 1,200lb ceramic clutch, but i've heard mixed reviews.
I need opinions!!
-Thanks,
Brian
Here's the scoop, I use my 4Runner mostly for fun driving and for offroading (no real DD purposes anymore).
Which clutch would you recommend and why?
I was thinking about running the 1,200lb ceramic clutch, but i've heard mixed reviews.
I need opinions!!
-Thanks,
Brian
#2
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I got mine from car quest. $80 stock replacement with a lifetime warranty. Seems to be doing really well. But I haven't put it under any real stress yet. But the lifetime warranty got me.
#4
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A stock replacement and getting a new flywheel/and or the old one resurfaced is the way to go unless you are running huge tires and lockers and do some pretty heavy rockcrawling.
Last edited by rworegon; 08-02-2014 at 09:34 AM.
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Maybe someone else can chime in. I'm not sure if you'll get more life out of a 1200 lb. vs the stock which is 900 lb. unless you are doing really serious rock crawling and have huge tires etc.
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#8
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I know mine is probably a little different being in a 3.4 powered truck, but when I had my trans rebuilt, I got a marlin crawler 1200 lb. I lllloooovvvveeee it lol.
I had put a Toyota clutch in at 120k while I was still working at the dealership. Never ever ever was right. Immediately had increased pedal effort, which subsided some, and, due to my inexperience, it started chattering, because I didn't clean the anti-corrosion coating off the pressure plate. Also, I had the flywheel machined, instead of replaced, which in retrospect, I probably shouldnt have done. When I pulled the trans to have it rebuilt at 160k, the flywheel had a major case of heat cracking, and a large patch of the contact area that still had the machining marks on it.
Now, on the other side of it, the despite being a stronger pressure, the pedal effort is actually less than that of the original clutch at 120k. On top of that, there is no chattering or grabbing. Everything in the kit was well packaged, and of high quality, and the price was very good, $269 compared to just over $400 for the factory clutch, even with my employee discount at the time. Also, with the marlin clutch, I decided to replace it instead of machine it. I got a new flywheel from napa, which was suprisingly cheap and of good quality. Again, I can't say how happy I am with the marlin kit.
I had put a Toyota clutch in at 120k while I was still working at the dealership. Never ever ever was right. Immediately had increased pedal effort, which subsided some, and, due to my inexperience, it started chattering, because I didn't clean the anti-corrosion coating off the pressure plate. Also, I had the flywheel machined, instead of replaced, which in retrospect, I probably shouldnt have done. When I pulled the trans to have it rebuilt at 160k, the flywheel had a major case of heat cracking, and a large patch of the contact area that still had the machining marks on it.
Now, on the other side of it, the despite being a stronger pressure, the pedal effort is actually less than that of the original clutch at 120k. On top of that, there is no chattering or grabbing. Everything in the kit was well packaged, and of high quality, and the price was very good, $269 compared to just over $400 for the factory clutch, even with my employee discount at the time. Also, with the marlin clutch, I decided to replace it instead of machine it. I got a new flywheel from napa, which was suprisingly cheap and of good quality. Again, I can't say how happy I am with the marlin kit.
#9
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If this is not going to be the DD(not the PLAN, anyhow)... I'd opt for a non-ceramic 1200# kit. I saw, recently(over Christmas, I believe) a 22RET Clutch kit w/flywheel for 199$ on sale, but I've looked at every one of the sites I visit from here and cannot seem to find it any longer.
Problem with the DD having a 1600# Ceramic clutch, Brian, .....well, it's that it's ANNOYING! Sure, you'd get used to it, ....but WHY would you? You should enjoy the ride TO rausch as well, no? Round town, no? I can't guarantee you would be displeased with the 1200# Ceramic... And hey, if you're going to spend 800Hrs. or so rock crawling this spring/summer, ..... Hmmm, I might have to rethink my opinion... But honestly? I had 260K on my original clutch/Aisin, and it STILL had life left! All the times I wheeled it in the 140K that I owned it(which at one point was MANY, MAYBE 20 WEEKENDS A YEAR), I never thought, "Dang, it's getting hot and gonna fail!".... But, I have to say, there are some VERY nice/proven kits out there now that are 'moderate' that I might just think about doing. If you're going to do stuff like the CA wheelers do all summer(like Scuba does, crawling up 10K feet from the base of 1000 feet, TORTURING the clutch all the way).... well, then I'd say grab a bit heavier one....
I had a 1600# Ceramic clutch in my 83 4x4..... I tossed it to a friend and traded him for the 1200# Non-Ceramic that he ordered in order to trade me, just 5 weeks later(too much work/herky jerk, IMHO). <<<< Notice I said, 'IMHO'~! lol.
Honestly? Just think it out well, over the time you have..... Why? >>> It's very important for quality wheeling, true... But it's also important that you don't wind up ticked off cuz your legs are SHOT after a half day of wheeling, right? hahaha.
33's, SFA, Crawling Rocks a bit more? >>>> I'd ask Zuk, Wabbit, Big Mike, etc., what they think, along with these fine Yotatech-Brethren who also have personal experience.....
IOW; GOOD QUESTION! lol.
Problem with the DD having a 1600# Ceramic clutch, Brian, .....well, it's that it's ANNOYING! Sure, you'd get used to it, ....but WHY would you? You should enjoy the ride TO rausch as well, no? Round town, no? I can't guarantee you would be displeased with the 1200# Ceramic... And hey, if you're going to spend 800Hrs. or so rock crawling this spring/summer, ..... Hmmm, I might have to rethink my opinion... But honestly? I had 260K on my original clutch/Aisin, and it STILL had life left! All the times I wheeled it in the 140K that I owned it(which at one point was MANY, MAYBE 20 WEEKENDS A YEAR), I never thought, "Dang, it's getting hot and gonna fail!".... But, I have to say, there are some VERY nice/proven kits out there now that are 'moderate' that I might just think about doing. If you're going to do stuff like the CA wheelers do all summer(like Scuba does, crawling up 10K feet from the base of 1000 feet, TORTURING the clutch all the way).... well, then I'd say grab a bit heavier one....
I had a 1600# Ceramic clutch in my 83 4x4..... I tossed it to a friend and traded him for the 1200# Non-Ceramic that he ordered in order to trade me, just 5 weeks later(too much work/herky jerk, IMHO). <<<< Notice I said, 'IMHO'~! lol.
Honestly? Just think it out well, over the time you have..... Why? >>> It's very important for quality wheeling, true... But it's also important that you don't wind up ticked off cuz your legs are SHOT after a half day of wheeling, right? hahaha.
33's, SFA, Crawling Rocks a bit more? >>>> I'd ask Zuk, Wabbit, Big Mike, etc., what they think, along with these fine Yotatech-Brethren who also have personal experience.....
IOW; GOOD QUESTION! lol.
#10
I know mine is probably a little different being in a 3.4 powered truck, but when I had my trans rebuilt, I got a marlin crawler 1200 lb. I lllloooovvvveeee it lol.
I had put a Toyota clutch in at 120k while I was still working at the dealership. Never ever ever was right. Immediately had increased pedal effort, which subsided some, and, due to my inexperience, it started chattering, because I didn't clean the anti-corrosion coating off the pressure plate. Also, I had the flywheel machined, instead of replaced, which in retrospect, I probably shouldnt have done. When I pulled the trans to have it rebuilt at 160k, the flywheel had a major case of heat cracking, and a large patch of the contact area that still had the machining marks on it.
Now, on the other side of it, the despite being a stronger pressure, the pedal effort is actually less than that of the original clutch at 120k. On top of that, there is no chattering or grabbing. Everything in the kit was well packaged, and of high quality, and the price was very good, $269 compared to just over $400 for the factory clutch, even with my employee discount at the time. Also, with the marlin clutch, I decided to replace it instead of machine it. I got a new flywheel from napa, which was suprisingly cheap and of good quality. Again, I can't say how happy I am with the marlin kit.
I had put a Toyota clutch in at 120k while I was still working at the dealership. Never ever ever was right. Immediately had increased pedal effort, which subsided some, and, due to my inexperience, it started chattering, because I didn't clean the anti-corrosion coating off the pressure plate. Also, I had the flywheel machined, instead of replaced, which in retrospect, I probably shouldnt have done. When I pulled the trans to have it rebuilt at 160k, the flywheel had a major case of heat cracking, and a large patch of the contact area that still had the machining marks on it.
Now, on the other side of it, the despite being a stronger pressure, the pedal effort is actually less than that of the original clutch at 120k. On top of that, there is no chattering or grabbing. Everything in the kit was well packaged, and of high quality, and the price was very good, $269 compared to just over $400 for the factory clutch, even with my employee discount at the time. Also, with the marlin clutch, I decided to replace it instead of machine it. I got a new flywheel from napa, which was suprisingly cheap and of good quality. Again, I can't say how happy I am with the marlin kit.
I REALLY like how the stock clutch in my 02' 3.4L Taco feels btw.
If this is not going to be the DD(not the PLAN, anyhow)... I'd opt for a non-ceramic 1200# kit. I saw, recently(over Christmas, I believe) a 22RET Clutch kit w/flywheel for 199$ on sale, but I've looked at every one of the sites I visit from here and cannot seem to find it any longer.
Problem with the DD having a 1600# Ceramic clutch, Brian, .....well, it's that it's ANNOYING! Sure, you'd get used to it, ....but WHY would you? You should enjoy the ride TO rausch as well, no? Round town, no? I can't guarantee you would be displeased with the 1200# Ceramic... And hey, if you're going to spend 800Hrs. or so rock crawling this spring/summer, ..... Hmmm, I might have to rethink my opinion... But honestly? I had 260K on my original clutch/Aisin, and it STILL had life left! All the times I wheeled it in the 140K that I owned it(which at one point was MANY, MAYBE 20 WEEKENDS A YEAR), I never thought, "Dang, it's getting hot and gonna fail!".... But, I have to say, there are some VERY nice/proven kits out there now that are 'moderate' that I might just think about doing. If you're going to do stuff like the CA wheelers do all summer(like Scuba does, crawling up 10K feet from the base of 1000 feet, TORTURING the clutch all the way).... well, then I'd say grab a bit heavier one....
I had a 1600# Ceramic clutch in my 83 4x4..... I tossed it to a friend and traded him for the 1200# Non-Ceramic that he ordered in order to trade me, just 5 weeks later(too much work/herky jerk, IMHO). <<<< Notice I said, 'IMHO'~! lol.
Honestly? Just think it out well, over the time you have..... Why? >>> It's very important for quality wheeling, true... But it's also important that you don't wind up ticked off cuz your legs are SHOT after a half day of wheeling, right? hahaha.
33's, SFA, Crawling Rocks a bit more? >>>> I'd ask Zuk, Wabbit, Big Mike, etc., what they think, along with these fine Yotatech-Brethren who also have personal experience.....
IOW; GOOD QUESTION! lol.
Problem with the DD having a 1600# Ceramic clutch, Brian, .....well, it's that it's ANNOYING! Sure, you'd get used to it, ....but WHY would you? You should enjoy the ride TO rausch as well, no? Round town, no? I can't guarantee you would be displeased with the 1200# Ceramic... And hey, if you're going to spend 800Hrs. or so rock crawling this spring/summer, ..... Hmmm, I might have to rethink my opinion... But honestly? I had 260K on my original clutch/Aisin, and it STILL had life left! All the times I wheeled it in the 140K that I owned it(which at one point was MANY, MAYBE 20 WEEKENDS A YEAR), I never thought, "Dang, it's getting hot and gonna fail!".... But, I have to say, there are some VERY nice/proven kits out there now that are 'moderate' that I might just think about doing. If you're going to do stuff like the CA wheelers do all summer(like Scuba does, crawling up 10K feet from the base of 1000 feet, TORTURING the clutch all the way).... well, then I'd say grab a bit heavier one....
I had a 1600# Ceramic clutch in my 83 4x4..... I tossed it to a friend and traded him for the 1200# Non-Ceramic that he ordered in order to trade me, just 5 weeks later(too much work/herky jerk, IMHO). <<<< Notice I said, 'IMHO'~! lol.
Honestly? Just think it out well, over the time you have..... Why? >>> It's very important for quality wheeling, true... But it's also important that you don't wind up ticked off cuz your legs are SHOT after a half day of wheeling, right? hahaha.
33's, SFA, Crawling Rocks a bit more? >>>> I'd ask Zuk, Wabbit, Big Mike, etc., what they think, along with these fine Yotatech-Brethren who also have personal experience.....
IOW; GOOD QUESTION! lol.
I'm constantly pushing the clutch in and out on the trails due to my 4low not being low enough and me not having enough power!! (but thats another story, need 4.7's!!!)
#11
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i run the centerforce dual friction disc and plate and i love it. Pedal is slightly softer then stock WAY more grip and have been running it for just over a year as a daily driver with no problems at all
#13
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I know mine is probably a little different being in a 3.4 powered truck, but when I had my trans rebuilt, I got a marlin crawler 1200 lb. I lllloooovvvveeee it lol.
I had put a Toyota clutch in at 120k while I was still working at the dealership. Never ever ever was right. Immediately had increased pedal effort, which subsided some, and, due to my inexperience, it started chattering, because I didn't clean the anti-corrosion coating off the pressure plate. Also, I had the flywheel machined, instead of replaced, which in retrospect, I probably shouldnt have done. When I pulled the trans to have it rebuilt at 160k, the flywheel had a major case of heat cracking, and a large patch of the contact area that still had the machining marks on it.
Now, on the other side of it, the despite being a stronger pressure, the pedal effort is actually less than that of the original clutch at 120k. On top of that, there is no chattering or grabbing. Everything in the kit was well packaged, and of high quality, and the price was very good, $269 compared to just over $400 for the factory clutch, even with my employee discount at the time. Also, with the marlin clutch, I decided to replace it instead of machine it. I got a new flywheel from napa, which was suprisingly cheap and of good quality. Again, I can't say how happy I am with the marlin kit.
I had put a Toyota clutch in at 120k while I was still working at the dealership. Never ever ever was right. Immediately had increased pedal effort, which subsided some, and, due to my inexperience, it started chattering, because I didn't clean the anti-corrosion coating off the pressure plate. Also, I had the flywheel machined, instead of replaced, which in retrospect, I probably shouldnt have done. When I pulled the trans to have it rebuilt at 160k, the flywheel had a major case of heat cracking, and a large patch of the contact area that still had the machining marks on it.
Now, on the other side of it, the despite being a stronger pressure, the pedal effort is actually less than that of the original clutch at 120k. On top of that, there is no chattering or grabbing. Everything in the kit was well packaged, and of high quality, and the price was very good, $269 compared to just over $400 for the factory clutch, even with my employee discount at the time. Also, with the marlin clutch, I decided to replace it instead of machine it. I got a new flywheel from napa, which was suprisingly cheap and of good quality. Again, I can't say how happy I am with the marlin kit.
#19
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Narrowing down, ..........DONE! hahaha.
Pull trigger........ ..........Wait for mail.......... ......... TRUCK PULLS UP..........for the Brown Truck Driver....... Alert Friends..... ........ KNOCK ALL THE WORK OUT............Brian jumps the Toyota Jump.... ..........Y'all have some Irish Coffees.......... ........ We demand pics........ .... but then you're too Hungover............... but the next day, after sweating us as usual(hehehe),.... you take some pics.........
Then, the money saved dropping the motor in with them instead of paying a shop begins to burn a hole in your pants.......... .......................
>
>
>
> And the cycle repeats! hahahaa
Pull trigger........ ..........Wait for mail.......... ......... TRUCK PULLS UP..........for the Brown Truck Driver....... Alert Friends..... ........ KNOCK ALL THE WORK OUT............Brian jumps the Toyota Jump.... ..........Y'all have some Irish Coffees.......... ........ We demand pics........ .... but then you're too Hungover............... but the next day, after sweating us as usual(hehehe),.... you take some pics.........
Then, the money saved dropping the motor in with them instead of paying a shop begins to burn a hole in your pants.......... .......................
>
>
>
> And the cycle repeats! hahahaa
#20
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Narrowing down, ..........DONE! hahaha.
Pull trigger........ ..........Wait for mail.......... ......... TRUCK PULLS UP..........for the Brown Truck Driver....... Alert Friends..... ........ KNOCK ALL THE WORK OUT............Brian jumps the Toyota Jump.... ..........Y'all have some Irish Coffees.......... ........ We demand pics........ .... but then you're too Hungover............... but the next day, after sweating us as usual(hehehe),.... you take some pics.........
Then, the money saved dropping the motor in with them instead of paying a shop begins to burn a hole in your pants.......... .......................
>
>
>
> And the cycle repeats! hahahaa
Pull trigger........ ..........Wait for mail.......... ......... TRUCK PULLS UP..........for the Brown Truck Driver....... Alert Friends..... ........ KNOCK ALL THE WORK OUT............Brian jumps the Toyota Jump.... ..........Y'all have some Irish Coffees.......... ........ We demand pics........ .... but then you're too Hungover............... but the next day, after sweating us as usual(hehehe),.... you take some pics.........
Then, the money saved dropping the motor in with them instead of paying a shop begins to burn a hole in your pants.......... .......................
>
>
>
> And the cycle repeats! hahahaa