changing rear brakes
#1
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changing rear brakes
I cant find any info on this from the search, and I have never done this before. But I want to change my rear pads myself. Any tips or something I should know that would help me?
#3
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Also one more thing are you sure you really need new shoes in the rear? They last a real long time and one thing you could do it adjust them to get more brake out of them
#4
Registered User
Make a copy of the FSM guidelines or get a Haynes manual. It makes the job easier to follow procedural like.
Having a brake tool really helps for pulling and reinstalling springs and retainers. Any auto store should have them.
Have plenty of rags, brake cleaner, and do one at a time so you have a good reference. If you take them both apart at the same time, you may wind up forgetting how they go back together. So, jack the rear up, take off both wheels, but...again...do one side at a time.
Also, have two new wheel cylinders on hand in the event you get in there find yours to be marginal. You don't want to have to take them apart twice. In this case, you'll need a quart of brake fluid for flushing/bleeding the lines.
Don't get any fluids on the shoes. A little won't hurt, but just be careful.
Actually....come to think of it...you might want to just pull the drums off before you really tear anything down to see if the drums need turning. If you find one does, both will need to be done. Then, you might want to have a back up vehicle handy to take them in.
This is also a good time for inspecting the parking brake and adjusters. Have some penetrating fluid handy so if you find things seized up you can fix it.
Oh....pulling the drums. If they've not been serviced in a while, the drums may be difficult to remove. You can squeeze behind the backing plate and loosen the adjuster barrels...OR...my favorite method....have two bolts handy that will fit into the threaded holes on the drum face. You just tighten them in and that will back the drum off of the shoes.
Um....can't think of anything else, at the moment.
Having a brake tool really helps for pulling and reinstalling springs and retainers. Any auto store should have them.
Have plenty of rags, brake cleaner, and do one at a time so you have a good reference. If you take them both apart at the same time, you may wind up forgetting how they go back together. So, jack the rear up, take off both wheels, but...again...do one side at a time.
Also, have two new wheel cylinders on hand in the event you get in there find yours to be marginal. You don't want to have to take them apart twice. In this case, you'll need a quart of brake fluid for flushing/bleeding the lines.
Don't get any fluids on the shoes. A little won't hurt, but just be careful.
Actually....come to think of it...you might want to just pull the drums off before you really tear anything down to see if the drums need turning. If you find one does, both will need to be done. Then, you might want to have a back up vehicle handy to take them in.
This is also a good time for inspecting the parking brake and adjusters. Have some penetrating fluid handy so if you find things seized up you can fix it.
Oh....pulling the drums. If they've not been serviced in a while, the drums may be difficult to remove. You can squeeze behind the backing plate and loosen the adjuster barrels...OR...my favorite method....have two bolts handy that will fit into the threaded holes on the drum face. You just tighten them in and that will back the drum off of the shoes.
Um....can't think of anything else, at the moment.
#6
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Yes, it is.
The 4runner's rear brakes are really simple (compared to the million-spring madness some of my other trucks and cars have had). All you need is a brake spring tool, which you can get for about $10 at any auto parts store. Like thook said, do one side at a time so that you have a reference if you forget how they go back together.
The 4runner's rear brakes are really simple (compared to the million-spring madness some of my other trucks and cars have had). All you need is a brake spring tool, which you can get for about $10 at any auto parts store. Like thook said, do one side at a time so that you have a reference if you forget how they go back together.
#7
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Thread Starter
Cool thanks guys. I'm sure you will hear from me again when I run into more problems. I was going to do it today, but seems like I may be more then a few hours if I gotta replace or adjust other stuff as well...I got my final tomorrow so cant risk it.
How will I know if the drums need tuning?
How will I know if the drums need tuning?
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Check to see how smooth your drums are on the inside. If it fells wavy you may want to get it turned and also if there is a lip on the out side edge of the drum.
I always get my drums and rotors turned anytime I put new pads on. Some may think its a little excessive but I like have a nice perfectly smooth surface.
I always get my drums and rotors turned anytime I put new pads on. Some may think its a little excessive but I like have a nice perfectly smooth surface.
#10
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rear brakes are cake.
remember to NOT let anyone press the brake pedal down while the drums are off.
also, drums are not that expensive so my opinion is to just replace the drums anyways.
look for any brake fluid seepage around the wheel cylinders- you'll know it when you see it, and replace the cylinders if any sign of leakage is evident. yeah, maybe you could kit and rebuild them but the cost difference between the kit and honing is not much less than new cylinders with warrantees.
You can do it without any special tools but you have to be very careful to not injure yourself. A scratch-awl is helpful if you don't have the spring tools.
take a digital picture of it before you remove anything so you know which spring goes where (i seem to remember there are 3 springs, plus the shoe retainers).
turn the adjusting star wheel all the way in so everything goes back together a bit easier.
be careful with the shoes near the wheel cylinder- it's easy for the shoes to slip off the pistons and cut the boot. that won't in-and-of-itself cause a problem, but if the boot is cut, there is nothing to keep dust out of the cylinder and seeping fluid in the cylinder.
remember to NOT let anyone press the brake pedal down while the drums are off.
also, drums are not that expensive so my opinion is to just replace the drums anyways.
look for any brake fluid seepage around the wheel cylinders- you'll know it when you see it, and replace the cylinders if any sign of leakage is evident. yeah, maybe you could kit and rebuild them but the cost difference between the kit and honing is not much less than new cylinders with warrantees.
You can do it without any special tools but you have to be very careful to not injure yourself. A scratch-awl is helpful if you don't have the spring tools.
take a digital picture of it before you remove anything so you know which spring goes where (i seem to remember there are 3 springs, plus the shoe retainers).
turn the adjusting star wheel all the way in so everything goes back together a bit easier.
be careful with the shoes near the wheel cylinder- it's easy for the shoes to slip off the pistons and cut the boot. that won't in-and-of-itself cause a problem, but if the boot is cut, there is nothing to keep dust out of the cylinder and seeping fluid in the cylinder.
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