Car Won't Start - Odd Electrical Output - I have lights but no juice to starter
11-17-2009, 04:02 PM
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Car Won't Start - Odd Electrical Output - I have lights but no juice to starter
1990 4Runner - 22RE - 5-speed 4x4
Okay. So I am living in Mexic
Okay. So I am living in Mexic
Last edited by Smelliottkuhn; 11-18-2009 at 08:51 AM.
11-17-2009, 05:43 PM
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Sometimes the contacts in the starter solenoid will create this issue.....need to check voltage into the solenoid and also out of the solenoid, that will tell you if you need to pull off the starter.
11-17-2009, 06:38 PM
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That the headlights aren't dimming when trying to crank points at either the ignition switch, relay, starter solenoid or related wiring. Check if you can manually activate the starter by applying 12v to the small wire on the starter- make sure you're in neutral before trying this. If the starter spins, connect a test light to the plug that goes to that wire and ground the other end, then have someone turn the key on- if the light doesn't light, the problem is likely not the starter.
11-18-2009, 02:32 AM
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UPDATE:
I am assuming that you have the keys turned to the on position? Or should everything be off?
I ran this test, with the keys in the on position, and the light does indeed turn on. I haven't gotten to jumping the starter and testing it yet, as per Abe's advice. It was too dark by the time I read the post.
In any event, according to Manusian, this means I have a power leak. How do I find the source? Where should I start?
Excellent posts, Magnusian.
...an easy way to check for your battery drain is charge up the battery so it will start your rig. Then, unhook your negative battery cable. Clip your test light [you do have a test light, right?] to the unhooked battery terminal, and touch the test light probe to the battery cable. if it lights up, you have a drain. ...
...an easy way to check for your battery drain is charge up the battery so it will start your rig. Then, unhook your negative battery cable. Clip your test light [you do have a test light, right?] to the unhooked battery terminal, and touch the test light probe to the battery cable. if it lights up, you have a drain. ...
I ran this test, with the keys in the on position, and the light does indeed turn on. I haven't gotten to jumping the starter and testing it yet, as per Abe's advice. It was too dark by the time I read the post.
In any event, according to Manusian, this means I have a power leak. How do I find the source? Where should I start?
Last edited by Smelliottkuhn; 11-18-2009 at 04:19 AM.
11-18-2009, 09:05 AM
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Update and Plan
So I have spent a solid amount of my work time searching blogs, forums, and random technical pages. The following steps have been copy and pasted from various other pages. (http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest) has been a huge help!
I am heading home today, and I am going to try the following:
1. If you have a clutch cancel switch, try starting with the switch engaged and see if the starter works.
• If so suspect either of the two switches, either adjust them or replace them if defective.
2. Check all the connections on the starter/solenoid. Pull off, clean, and reconnect. Check if solenoid is getting power with test light.
• The best way to do that is to
o Take off the small wire that attaches to the solenoid
o Hook up a test light or multi-meter that goes between the wire and a good ground
o Have someone turn the key to the start position and see if you have power going to the solenoid.
3. Try to start.
• Tap with hammer or wrench—possible the fibers are stuck in the solenoid.
4. Trying to jump the car from the solenoid:
• connect the large solenoid terminal (from battery) to the small terminal (*NOT* the ground terminal which is usually black). This does exactly what the key does when turned to "start". Won't work if the solenoid is faulty.
o You can use a jumper wire with or without clamps, or two screwdrivers, or a pair of pliers.
I am heading home today, and I am going to try the following:
1. If you have a clutch cancel switch, try starting with the switch engaged and see if the starter works.
• If so suspect either of the two switches, either adjust them or replace them if defective.
2. Check all the connections on the starter/solenoid. Pull off, clean, and reconnect. Check if solenoid is getting power with test light.
• The best way to do that is to
o Take off the small wire that attaches to the solenoid
o Hook up a test light or multi-meter that goes between the wire and a good ground
o Have someone turn the key to the start position and see if you have power going to the solenoid.
3. Try to start.
• Tap with hammer or wrench—possible the fibers are stuck in the solenoid.
4. Trying to jump the car from the solenoid:
• connect the large solenoid terminal (from battery) to the small terminal (*NOT* the ground terminal which is usually black). This does exactly what the key does when turned to "start". Won't work if the solenoid is faulty.
o You can use a jumper wire with or without clamps, or two screwdrivers, or a pair of pliers.
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