A/C problem
#21
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Well...Ive never had air so I said screw it. I Used the oil then filled the system with r134. To get it to flow in I had to jump the clutch. Once I had it full I tried to reconnect the wire to the clutch but still no go. With the jumper wire it does get cold, so any ideas? Where is this pressure sensor? What do yall think?
#22
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
So what do you consider a retrofit? Do you not agree that the Castrol Retro A/C ester oil is compatable with both R-12 and R-134?
I know they used to say you couldn't convert to R-134 with replacing all this stuff, but after Toyota did some field testing my understanding is that the systems will handle it just fine with the ester oil in there. This info is from a top Toyota tech at a dealership.
I know they used to say you couldn't convert to R-134 with replacing all this stuff, but after Toyota did some field testing my understanding is that the systems will handle it just fine with the ester oil in there. This info is from a top Toyota tech at a dealership.
if the oil isnt designed to work with the refrigerant it cannot flow threw the system. most of the oil will stay in the compresor but the oil traveling thru the system (if not compatable ) can create a waxie build up. this wax can clog at the metering device and freeze up, or form a sludge. Also different comp. use different oil viscosities. 134 systems use polyalkalene glycol(pag syntheticoil)
A retro fit would be: new comp. and seals...etc.
You are right about acidic in the evaperator though but acidics will eat thru any evap. I had a dog lift his leg on my condensing unit outside my house and it ate awat it the aluminum fins until they were just about gone.
Sum dum ac guy
#23
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Originally Posted by sumdumacguy
Im not sure what you mean by castrolreto a/c ester oil but here it goes.
if the oil isnt designed to work with the refrigerant it cannot flow threw the system. most of the oil will stay in the compresor but the oil traveling thru the system (if not compatable ) can create a waxie build up. this wax can clog at the metering device and freeze up, or form a sludge. Also different comp. use different oil viscosities. 134 systems use polyalkalene glycol(pag syntheticoil)
A retro fit would be: new comp. and seals...etc.
You are right about acidic in the evaperator though but acidics will eat thru any evap. I had a dog lift his leg on my condensing unit outside my house and it ate awat it the aluminum fins until they were just about gone.
Sum dum ac guy
if the oil isnt designed to work with the refrigerant it cannot flow threw the system. most of the oil will stay in the compresor but the oil traveling thru the system (if not compatable ) can create a waxie build up. this wax can clog at the metering device and freeze up, or form a sludge. Also different comp. use different oil viscosities. 134 systems use polyalkalene glycol(pag syntheticoil)
A retro fit would be: new comp. and seals...etc.
You are right about acidic in the evaperator though but acidics will eat thru any evap. I had a dog lift his leg on my condensing unit outside my house and it ate awat it the aluminum fins until they were just about gone.
Sum dum ac guy
Last edited by mt_goat; 07-19-2006 at 11:31 AM.
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Originally Posted by ramrugby09
Well...Ive never had air so I said screw it. I Used the oil then filled the system with r134. To get it to flow in I had to jump the clutch. Once I had it full I tried to reconnect the wire to the clutch but still no go. With the jumper wire it does get cold, so any ideas? Where is this pressure sensor? What do yall think?
also if you didnt shoot it with nitrogen there could be moisture in the system.also if you didnt pull a vacuum (4microns) there could be non condensable in the system. Both will be a dangerous blend to create acidics in the system and without a new filter the compressor can be dammaged.
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
The oil that was given to me from a Toyota tech was Castrol Retro A/C. It is a polyol ester lubricant designed for use in R-12 or R-134a systems (at least that's what it says on the bottle).
I normally work on large buiding systems and super market stores but i do work with 134 and 12
Last edited by sumdumacguy; 07-19-2006 at 11:45 AM.
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Is the receiver/drier what you are calling the filter?
#29
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Originally Posted by ramrugby09
Well...Ive never had air so I said screw it. I Used the oil then filled the system with r134. To get it to flow in I had to jump the clutch. Once I had it full I tried to reconnect the wire to the clutch but still no go. With the jumper wire it does get cold, so any ideas? Where is this pressure sensor? What do yall think?
#30
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Originally Posted by sumdumacguy
The reciever(if there is one would just give the liquid refrigerant a place to be hed until it is needed.
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How much refrigerent will the system take? I put in around 1 and 3/4 cans. Also I noticed that the psi will drop if I rev the engine but returns when at idle, not sure if that means anything?
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Ok well now the compressor will come on but only when you give it gas... At idle it will not engage. Does the pressure build when the rpms come up? (I am starting to think the guage I have may be faulty)
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On my 91 V6, a faulty expansion valve kept the compressor from coming on.
Check, there was a recall on this item for certain models.
New 134 formulas are available with polyester "ester" oil that is fully compatible with the (hopefully) tiny remnants of R12 and mineral oil that may be left in your system. The last 12 months have seen many changes in the r134 formulations.
My experience/advice? Replace the receiver/dryer/filter and pull a good vacuum anytime you open the system, whatever the reason. Two of my Toys have leaked from rust that developed around the mounting bracket on the reciever/dryer/filter-I did a dye test and nitrogen and found the leak.
Also, I have first hand experience with this and it works, gotta' have an EPA 609 license to buy it though:
http://www.refimax.com/products/fr12...ages.htm#r134a
You can "drop it in" existing r12 systems without changing a thing.
Same goes for R406 "autofrost."
Check, there was a recall on this item for certain models.
New 134 formulas are available with polyester "ester" oil that is fully compatible with the (hopefully) tiny remnants of R12 and mineral oil that may be left in your system. The last 12 months have seen many changes in the r134 formulations.
My experience/advice? Replace the receiver/dryer/filter and pull a good vacuum anytime you open the system, whatever the reason. Two of my Toys have leaked from rust that developed around the mounting bracket on the reciever/dryer/filter-I did a dye test and nitrogen and found the leak.
Also, I have first hand experience with this and it works, gotta' have an EPA 609 license to buy it though:
http://www.refimax.com/products/fr12...ages.htm#r134a
You can "drop it in" existing r12 systems without changing a thing.
Same goes for R406 "autofrost."
Last edited by Reldnew; 07-20-2006 at 07:37 AM.
#35
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Originally Posted by Reldnew
On my 91 V6, a faulty expansion valve kept the compressor from coming on.
Check, there was a recall on this item for certain models.
New 134 formulas are available with polyester "ester" oil that is fully compatible with the (hopefully) tiny remnants of R12 and mineral oil that may be left in your system. The last 12 months have seen many changes in the r134 formulations.
My experience/advice? Replace the receiver/dryer/filter and pull a good vacuum anytime you open the system, whatever the reason. Two of my Toys have leaked from rust that developed around the mounting bracket on the reciever/dryer/filter-I did a dye test and nitrogen and found the leak.
Also, I have first hand experience with this and it works, gotta' have an EPA 609 license to buy it though:
http://www.refimax.com/products/fr12...ages.htm#r134a
You can "drop it in" existing r12 systems without changing a thing.
Same goes for R406 "autofrost."
Check, there was a recall on this item for certain models.
New 134 formulas are available with polyester "ester" oil that is fully compatible with the (hopefully) tiny remnants of R12 and mineral oil that may be left in your system. The last 12 months have seen many changes in the r134 formulations.
My experience/advice? Replace the receiver/dryer/filter and pull a good vacuum anytime you open the system, whatever the reason. Two of my Toys have leaked from rust that developed around the mounting bracket on the reciever/dryer/filter-I did a dye test and nitrogen and found the leak.
Also, I have first hand experience with this and it works, gotta' have an EPA 609 license to buy it though:
http://www.refimax.com/products/fr12...ages.htm#r134a
You can "drop it in" existing r12 systems without changing a thing.
Same goes for R406 "autofrost."
#36
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The manufacturer says it should work, but I have no first hand-or second, third or fourth, for that matter- experience. If the R134 cools well enough for you, stay with it because it is alot easier to get and cheaper. Last time I needed FR12 I think it was like $10.00 a can. If you have access to the 2001 donor car you got the compressor from, snag the condensor too. It'll be larger and thusly more tuned to the properties of the R134.
This is a good place to mention I am not a professional, just have alot of friends who are, and hang out at the shop constantly. But everything I mention has worked well for me
This is a good place to mention I am not a professional, just have alot of friends who are, and hang out at the shop constantly. But everything I mention has worked well for me
Last edited by Reldnew; 07-20-2006 at 09:59 AM.
#37
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Originally Posted by Reldnew
The manufacturer says it should work, but I have no first hand-or second, third or fourth, for that matter- experience. If the R134 cools well enough for you, stay with it because it is alot easier to get and cheaper. Last time I needed FR12 I think it was like $10.00 a can. If you have access to the 2001 donor car you got the compressor from, snag the condensor too. It'll be larger and thusly more tuned to the properties of the R134.
This is a good place to mention I am not a professional, just have alot of friends who are, and hang out at the shop constantly. But everything I mention has worked well for me
This is a good place to mention I am not a professional, just have alot of friends who are, and hang out at the shop constantly. But everything I mention has worked well for me
#38
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old school theory
WHEN EVER CHARGING REFRIGERANT you should always weigh the charge in. if i remember correctly, my refrigeration books refered to toyotas in the text and stated that the operating conditions would be @ 70 miles per hour on the interstate(comp pumping to capacity).
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