When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello I'm working on my sons 93 4runner. A couple days ago, his clutch pedal bracket cracked and his clutch no longer worked. I've read just about everything I can about this and realize its fairly common. we managed to get the old bracket out. We had removed the brake pedal and clutch pedal from the bracket 1st but still couldn't get it out. There's a mess of spliced wires from previous owners under the steering column so I was trying to avoid removing or dropping the column. We ended up completely removing the clutch master cylinder and the brake master cylinder with the booster. This worked out really well for us. The bracket came out easily this way. I know I will have to bleed everything later but I'm ok with that. I'm hoping I can install the bracket with the clutch pedal attached because the nut on the clutch pedal is difficult to reach with the bracket in place.
Now we have to decide how to fix this. The bracket appears to have been previously repaired near the studs for the clutch master cylinder. This time, it cracked in the middle of the outside support for the clutch pedal. My welding skills aren't the best so I'll probably have someone who knows what they're doing look at it. It looks like a new one can still be found for $200 to $250 so thats an option. I have noticed quite a bit of movement in the firewall when the clutch is pressed in. Also the holes in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder are not in great condition. Im thinking a plate inside, outside, or both on the firewall may be necessary. There's a plate 55113-34010 designed to reinforce the firewall on a t100. Im not sure if this would work on the 4runner. I may have to come up with something on my own. The plates couldnt be too thick or clutch rod may not reach the pedal properly. Im open to ideas and suggestions. I'll try to post whatever fix we choose to go with.
that looks like an easy weld repair, should be able to add reinforcement and build it up stronger than when it was new? whether it's worthwhile probably depends in part on how well the other repair was done.
Thanks for the reply. welding the break shouldn't be an issue. I've read that other people had problems with it just breaking in a different spot within months after a repair. The area that broke isn't flat at all so reinforcing it maybe a bit more difficult. I'm not in a huge hurry and have been busy with some other things. I have a decent mig and stick welder but to be honest, Im not that great at using them. Hopefully, I can have an experienced welder look at it next week sometime. It may be easier to reinforce than I think. The firewall isnt rusted at all but the holes for the clutch master cylinder studs appear slightly larger than they should be. This truck was originally an automatic, so whoever cut the holes didnt do a perfect job. Im thinking some large washers or a plate of some kind may be necessary.
that bracket looks pretty flat on the long side, and the top edge, but what is the alternative? is the factory new replacement reinforced over what came in the truck? the old one might have some fatigued metal in other places from moving around due to the crack, just reinforce that area as well... you could also try replacing and greasing the nylon bushings on the pedal arm.
as far as reinforcing the firewall, how much length do the pushrods for the pedals have? if you have plenty of freeplay adjustment room left you could build the firewall up... my '86 came with a thick metal spacer between the firewall and the booster, but i had to leave it off when i went with the t100 booster.
08-07-2024, 12:16 AM
