Junkers88

Sure wish you'd finish this so you can get back to work on your camper, it is almost camping season you know....

irab88

iTrader: (4)

then come on over! haha

trailer work won't be until after this is done. i might flip the axle, but not much else. besides, without the truck, the camper ain't goin' nowhere!

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

Just take the front diff out. Or just drop it down off the mounts (still attached to the CV's). I've heard of that working.
If not, just drop the front diff.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

got a bunch done today. took out the exhaust, upper intake, and p/s pump. more to take out, more to order, and more pictures to upload (later)

oh yeah, and i hooked up my g-ma with wireless

irab88

iTrader: (4)

so, apparently, the rear "d" plug fell out when i had checked the chain the first time. could that have been the source of an empty oil pan?



great. i drove up to 30 miles with no oil. that sucks.

oh well, now on to removing the smaller stuff. the last major part still on is the lower intake, and i'm hving the hardest time finding how to disconnect the wiring harness. well, i got 2 and a half days...

irab88

iTrader: (4)

picture time!

got a bunch done today

this is what i love about toyota trucks. no jacks needed to fit a 5 gallon bucket under the radiator. heck, i could almost do it for oil





reference shots (lots of these)





radiator out



not too bad looking for 18 years old



next up, power steering out

















intermission

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDjQLPXEDtA

my extension for the exhaust bolts (2 out of the 3, anyway)



the "cheater bar" for the other one. yeah, it's a 5 ¾ drop with a 1 7/8 ball



whole bunch of junk at the bottom of the coolant overflow container



that rail-thing off



mmmm... crud buildup



i didn't expect this. rather than the nuts come off the studs, or the studs break, the studs came out of the head



it's off





not glare, but white residue







and it looks like the alternator almost fits without the transition bracket i'll try it out later





skip a few frames for the upper intake







in order, 1-4









fuel rail next











at this point i realized the rear "d" plug was missing. probably somewhere in the middle of route one. might have been the source of my massive oil leak on the ride over here. just a hunch, though





more reference



and ready for cleaning and possibly paint



that's all i got to today. tomorrow i'll tackle the lower intake, make a trip home for more of my parts, and by sunday, maybe start on the head. maybe.

question: anyone know what to un-plug to get the big wiring harness out? it's going straight through my lower intake, and i don't want it to.

peow130

Heres a word of advice with those studs.
Remove the nuts from them.
I found this out the hard way, and stripped out an exhaust stud hole on the head.

twistedyota

iTrader: (1)

for tht harness going through the lower intake, i believe their is the oil pressure sender, starter wire tht is a plug in, and 2 plugs near the starter tht go back towards the tranny, also a plug going to the idle air control valve i believe is the name
i dont remember if their was any more, you would think i would know only torn my 22re's down 3 times i believe, last time i did it i cheated and sliped the fuel rail through the lower intake and left it connected

if you want i could post the pictures when i did my tear down i have 123 all together.

snobdds

If I was you, I would go buy new exhaust studs and nuts. They go through so many heat cycles that they are brittle and prone to breaking. Get a stud puller to get the rest out.

I would also get 2 new exhaust gaskets for the collector as well.

Exhaust leaks will drive a person nuts...

irab88

iTrader: (4)

thanks. i might get new ones, too
phooey. i was hoping for just one or two plugs. oh well, thanks for the info
ok, i'll bite. why use 2 exhaust gaskets?

irab88

iTrader: (4)

found the plugs that go through the manifold. not as long as i thought, the lower intake should be off by the end of today

RBX

I believe there are two types of exhaust collector gaskets. I seen one that was a single gasket that covers the two exhaust ports, but commonly I've used the two donuts, perhaps that is what he means.
Looks good Ian, that oil leak is most likely due to the d- gasket escaping.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeeeeehawwwwwww! lol.

Looks good, man, whoop'n arse!

Just curious..... you're not doing ANY SERVICING to the Head while it's out? Just doing the HG for now and then doing that FULL rebuild later, including the Head, when the time comes? .........sorry, just trying to remember, haha.

Looks like you're making great progress, Ian, CONGRATZ!

CHEF OUT! LOL

irab88

iTrader: (4)

rb- yup.

mark- yeah, just a hg for now. that's plenty for me. more work still to be done, but nothing i can't handle. thanks! and have fun on vacation

irab88

iTrader: (4)

lower intake is out!!!!

peow130

Don't use two exhaust gaskets.. doesn't make any sense.
Why are u removing the oil pan? You won't need to

irab88

iTrader: (4)

to get a nice seal on the timing chain cover, and get the broken guide out.


a few things that will happen whenever working on an engine:

-something will break
-you will get hurt
-the hardest bolt to get to is the hardest to remove
-it's grimy
-you'll spill fluids
-nothing is as easy as it seems, but it will come off/go on eventually

...so far

irab88

iTrader: (4)

anyone know how to loosen a stuck head bolt? it's #8 on the loosening chart (haynes manual, page 2a-6). i've tried ratchet, breaker bar, breaker bar with impact socket, with foot in the engine compartment, and with a ratchet strap pulling on a wrench. with the breaker bar, i managed to chip some of the corners of the bolt, along with a puff of smoke.

anyone know?

irab88

iTrader: (4)

never mind. i got it. i think i'll replace these bolts

edit:

i didn't actually get it. i stripped it.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

better yet: i actually sheared it