irab88

iTrader: (4)

thanks rb. i'm focusing on a much larger task now: cleaning the garage

irab88

iTrader: (4)

update: now that i've driven 100+ miles on the engine, it has smoothed out a bit. i'll do a 500-mile check-up this weekend, but it seems to be doing just fine. the valve knock has gone down, and i can hear the exhaust leak. it's driving me insane. not that i have a leak, but that i don't know where it is.

on another note, i've been planning out one of my next mods; the e-fan. i've created some logic here. the fan only needs to run if there is flow through the radiator. the thermostat controls the flow, so it would make sense to put the temp sensor in the t-stat housing, right? i've seen some housings with a tapped section for a sensor, and was wondering either where to get one, or what to search for. anyone know?

(like the one in this pic: )

RBX

I thought that thermostat port was from a celica 22r engine(maybe 22re later) can't recall exactly, but i remeber seeing it when i was researching.
If you put the sensor to turn the fan on/off in that location, the fan will run whenever the coolant at the thermostat is at the prescribed temperature. So the sensor has no idea how cool the coolant in the radiator is. On the highway your fan will never kick on(around here at least) because the temperature sensor(if placed in the radiator) is getting air pushed over rad fins. In the set-up you suggest, your fan will kick on even if the radiator temperature is cool.I would stick with a temperature sensor/thermometer in the radiator. You could drill and tap for an NPT if you want it a little slicker setup.
read up on this site...i use this controller, and it is very nice.
http://www.dccontrol.com/

irab88

iTrader: (4)

wouldn't the t-stat housing have coolant flowing from the radiator? or do i have it reversed?

RBX

Not if it is closed.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

but the fan wouldn't need to run if the t-stat is closed. just if the coolant coming from the radiator is too hot

(i'm just thinking this through...)

RBX

If the fan doesn't turn on until the t-stat opens....you want cool coolant running into the engine when it needs it, not as it opens and then tries to cool the coolant from the block.

xxxtreme22r

^^^^ that is dead on. You want a cold shot of coolant going into the engine. Not luke warm. Got caught up in a technical question PM..... hmmmmmm. And RBX beat me to it.

RBX

Also, that sensor pictured above is a temperature sending unit for the guage, which is why it is placed there....it is simply telling you what temp the engine is. If you took that sending unit and moved it to the radiator, you would see your dash guage moving all over the place, and it wouldn't be a good depiction of your engine temperature.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I guess it depends on the motor-year. My Temperature Sending Unit is in the middle of the intake, facing upward.... The one in the thermostat housing, which I also have, is called the Thermostatic-Temperature Switch(at least in mine that's what it is)...and it's related to the ECU in some way(and I do NOT have an electric fan). Thought it was something to do with "When the Thermostat opens, it tells the ECU that it's done so"....Sorry, I can't remember the difference, but I KNOW when reading the FSM on my year and then having to order one because it snapped off at the top... so, at least from what I read and was told by the dealer foreman that helped me back last summer....."the one on top of the thermostat housing has some other EFI purpose, not so much for cooling system."

PLEASE, don't yell at me? hahaha. I'm not saying RBX is wrong, ....and I can't know if his 92 is different(I'm SURE it likely is, ...as MANY other things are! lol). Just sharing what came to mind from my own experience.

PS> And.... actually, the Sensor in the stat housing that I see in the pic above....it looks more like my Gauge's sending unit that's in the middle of my intake, and does NOT look like the one that is in my thermostat housing right now. The one in mine, now, is taller, more 'gold' but,... also has a single wire. I'll take a pic of both of mine, ....just for the heck of it, K? lol.

RBX

Mark there are two units...a sending unit to the dash in your case located on the passenger side of the 22re valve cover. And the water temperature sensor(themastatic thingy you mentioned), that sens the information to the ECU.Technically there are three, the third being the cold start injector timer switch. This one simply tells the cold start injector to fire if the engine is cold.
I seem to recall that the above picture is a housing from an older supra engine, but i could be way off.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

i knew it had to be for a simple reason like that. thanks, that makes sooo much more sense now.
which sensor would you recomend? one off the site you recomended? are you using one of those?

i'll go back and look at your build thread...

edit: looks like you're using one of these?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Oh, I know, on the "there are two, actually 3", ......after all my chasing of tail adventures over the last YEARRRRRRRRRRR, hahaha, ...I've had to figure out what some of them gizmo's in there, are, lol.

Yeah, the one in my thermostat housing, (Thermo-Temp-Time-Switch), ...sends signals to the ECU for fuel mixture, etc, due to temp of MOTOR, which is before the Stat... along with the Coolant Temp Sensor, etc., ..... and I think I remember the guy telling me, "The Coolant Temp Sensor is more important, but that one IS part of it, .....and is somewhat of a secondary reading. One reads below the thermostat and one reads above."....... I STILL don't know exactly what it does... which is my fault, for not WRITING IT DOWN, when i had originally looked it up! hahaha.

Far as I know, ...the gauge sensor is the one IN the Intake, center, between #2 and #3 intake ports. Which IS actually coolant running through the Head Channels, from the heater core, wrap around pipe up into the intake in the middle, RIGHT BELOW that sensor(That is that wrap around pipe that I had ONE HELL of a time with, Ian, ...and ended up having to replace..... The one I was just trying to give you an extra heads up on, "Maybe replace that rubber o-ring"..??)

Anyway, good luck with this, Ian, I'm watching, ...... contemplating this, like a couple other things in here!

BTW< with that new Alternator, are you noticing less bouncing of RPM and such? (can't remember if you said you have that issue)...??????

irab88

iTrader: (4)

i'll probably start a new thread for my e-fan stuff, just to keep this thread somewhat cleaner

btw> the new alternator does great. i drove with all the lights on today (lows and hellas), and the fluxuation was a lot less noticable. i had them on last night, and didn't see the lights dim when i went idle. it was well worth it to replace the old alternator. it should perform even better once i upgrade the wiring

RBX

Ian it is called the 2sp now. It was the fk35.
http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm
Top of page cheapest they make

irab88

iTrader: (4)

thanks. that seems like my best bet after reading through all the stuff

edit: it has mounting instructions for cross-flow and downflow. i assume ours is up-flow, and to place the sensor at the bottom? or still the top?

RBX

I placed mine at the top per theinstructions since ours is a downflow.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

and yours works fine? then that's good enough for me.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I think I'm going to be having mine, the new one, bumped up to 100AMP by this place down the hwy a bit from me. Still should replace all the wires I can though, lol.

Congratz, man, ....sounds like it's workin just great, that's AWESOME TO HEAR!

RBX

My works great, been using it since June last year. It was first installed in the 4Ruster, and now in the 4Wallet. I used a cheap hayden before that, and it couldn't take advantage of the hi and lo speed fan...just one, either you hooked up hi or lo.
The DCC is made for the Ford fans, and ramps up fan speed so it doesn't put a big initial draw on your electrics, unlike the hayden.