broke my timing chain guide, time to rebuild (pics)
#224
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Waukesha WI
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ah! your pictures are brilliant! I just did this to my '88 truck. the timing chain cover gasket failed. I figured I would swap out the old guides and chain and such for new. I didn't take the header off to do it though. you can sneak under the gear on the cam with a dual flex head end wrench and get that annoying bolt that goes down through the header into the top of the timing chain cover. I didn't drop the oil pan either. in short I cheated and wouldn't recommend doing it that way but it worked. cheers.
#228
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
I think i have a pic of my nice purdy pan all scratched up after arguing with it to get it back on.
HELPFUL HINT # 1,473,265
wear a long-sleeved shirt when applying FIPG to the pan and start from the back. once on your skin, the only way to get it off is amputation.(i'm typing with my nose)
HELPFUL HINT # 1,473,265
wear a long-sleeved shirt when applying FIPG to the pan and start from the back. once on your skin, the only way to get it off is amputation.(i'm typing with my nose)
#230
stacked wood under the shaft, bottle-jacked it up, put 2x4's under the mounts, then took all the oil pan bolts out. then i had to un-mount the pick-up tube. it was, um, interesting
yeah, i can hardly wait
thanks. i'll dig some up this weekend
nope. still waiting on a call back.
I think i have a pic of my nice purdy pan all scratched up after arguing with it to get it back on.
HELPFUL HINT # 1,473,265
wear a long-sleeved shirt when applying FIPG to the pan and start from the back. once on your skin, the only way to get it off is amputation.(i'm typing with my nose)
HELPFUL HINT # 1,473,265
wear a long-sleeved shirt when applying FIPG to the pan and start from the back. once on your skin, the only way to get it off is amputation.(i'm typing with my nose)
nope. still waiting on a call back.
#231
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
i was going to suggest the motor mount thing to get it back in. if you drop the diff and do the motor mount thing you can gain a whole lotta space. diff drop is a PITA though....says me.
#236
Registered User
the diff drop kit you mean is like the 4crawler one? if so all it does is space out the back two bolts. Basically tilting the diff. Leaving the front mount alone. The only diff drop I can think off that messed with that mount is the old rancho 3" UCA lift kit in which it replaces that whole cross member. But good luck finding one of those.
Now what no one really mentions as a side effect of the diff drops like 4crawler has, is the change in pinion angle. I don't think it's really a concern though as it's the front diff and you really aren't going fast enough in 4wd for it to matter on vibrations. Or at least I'm not when in 4wd.
Now what no one really mentions as a side effect of the diff drops like 4crawler has, is the change in pinion angle. I don't think it's really a concern though as it's the front diff and you really aren't going fast enough in 4wd for it to matter on vibrations. Or at least I'm not when in 4wd.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 04-21-2011 at 05:14 AM.
#237
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
and that^^
dropping the diff (for oil pan porpoises) is arduous but only because of a few factors...
1)the swaybar is truly in the way.......so "I" would NOT try to disconnect the swaybar......broke all 4 bolts....NO BUENO
2)disconnecting the 4 bolts from the front driveshaft to the diff is a PITA but totally do-able.......if you have air tools, this is one of those times I wish I did and would have used them......follow the FSM or my thread for that stuff.
3) the diff (all inclusive) articulates a few ways......so (as you can see by my pics) I had to support here, and here and here.
BUT....with that said, I would still do it......between that and lifting the motor to gain extra room, putting the pan on should be no big deal.
in case it wasn't already posted, the traditional "DIFF DROP" as Brandon mentioned is to make the angle of the CV's not as acute secondary to a BJ Spacer .....basically some metal hockey puck-ish spacers and similar sized spacers for the swaybar as well.
have fun.
dropping the diff (for oil pan porpoises) is arduous but only because of a few factors...
1)the swaybar is truly in the way.......so "I" would NOT try to disconnect the swaybar......broke all 4 bolts....NO BUENO
2)disconnecting the 4 bolts from the front driveshaft to the diff is a PITA but totally do-able.......if you have air tools, this is one of those times I wish I did and would have used them......follow the FSM or my thread for that stuff.
3) the diff (all inclusive) articulates a few ways......so (as you can see by my pics) I had to support here, and here and here.
BUT....with that said, I would still do it......between that and lifting the motor to gain extra room, putting the pan on should be no big deal.
in case it wasn't already posted, the traditional "DIFF DROP" as Brandon mentioned is to make the angle of the CV's not as acute secondary to a BJ Spacer .....basically some metal hockey puck-ish spacers and similar sized spacers for the swaybar as well.
have fun.
#238
Registered User
ok now I am confused, you got the pan out, are you dropping the diff to put it back in or are you talking about putting a diff drop in? bah not enough coffee for me I guess. I'm all kinda of confused here.
Oh yeah and don't get me on drop diff for pan or no drop. haha I ain't goin through that again. LMAO.
Oh yeah and don't get me on drop diff for pan or no drop. haha I ain't goin through that again. LMAO.
#239
not putting in a diff drop (just yet, anyway). just something that popped into my mind, along with a wrench. it slipped and hit me in the side of my face. more pb is in needed
oh, and no sway bar. i took it out looong ago
oh, and no sway bar. i took it out looong ago
Last edited by irab88; 04-21-2011 at 06:09 AM.