brakes sticking
#1
brakes sticking
i have a '92 2 wheel drive 4 cylinder pickup. my brakes are sticking after about 10 minutes of driving. the truck pulls to the left and feels bogged down. when i brake the truck pulls to the right. the drivers side front brake gets hot.
i recently tried replacing my brake lines (and bleeding them) and lubing the caliper pins. one of the little covers that covers the end of the caliper pins is missing, so i figured enough dirt had gotten in there to cause the siezing. after i did these thngs the truck felt better until about 10 minutes of driving had gone by and then it started feeling all wrong again.
i'm trying to figure out if i most likley just need all new calipers of if something else may need to be looked at.. any ideas would help
thanks
i recently tried replacing my brake lines (and bleeding them) and lubing the caliper pins. one of the little covers that covers the end of the caliper pins is missing, so i figured enough dirt had gotten in there to cause the siezing. after i did these thngs the truck felt better until about 10 minutes of driving had gone by and then it started feeling all wrong again.
i'm trying to figure out if i most likley just need all new calipers of if something else may need to be looked at.. any ideas would help
thanks
#3
update ive replaced the flex hoses up front still the same issue. my rotor seems to be warped upfront. im thinking the pulsating of the warped rotor is causing this pressure. im having them cut this weekend ill let you know how it works out.
#4
With the calipers still installed on the vehicle try to compress the pistons. They should compress in with no binding. If the caliper pistons do not move you may have a sized caliper piston. Based on your description in may be on the drivers side. It is an easy fix just purchase a kit for about $5 and rebuild your caliper. There should be a write up available here. If you do not find one and decide you need help on the rebuild or replacing your caliper let me know.
#5
I any of your calipers are leaking they need replacing. Check fluid bleed all air out of system. Check rear brakes. Any wheel cylinders leaking they need replacing. If they are sticking out then i'd replace them.
#7
I discoverd something today.. I was doing the seafoam treatment through the vac brake hose. and it free'd up the brakes! I tried it again when I felt the truck dragging again. I pulled the hose and it let go! could this be my booster? we will see once I have the rotors turned. I really do think its the warped rotors causing the lock up.
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#8
Does your engine bog down upon pressing the brake pedal? If so your booster needs replacing. It may verywell be rusty inside your booster. And the vac diaphram in the booster may be damaged.... if so it needs replacing..... Without the booster you will not be able to brake worth a dam. front brakes will be totally gone.... without a functioning booster you will be braking 3 times the distance you were before and could not react to dangerous driving situations.... thus for wrecks......
#9
ok more progress i replaced the pass front rotor and the booster still slowly increases the what i like to call "sqeeze" on the rotor. now while driving i will tap the brakes and it seems to let go for a while then come back. im replacing the other rotor and rebuilding both calipers next. might as well.. the engine idle only comes down a bit if i pump the brakes. got the rotors for 21.50 woo hoo!
#11
By the way rebuilding toyota brake calipers is very easy and it doesn't take much. Just pop the pistons from the caliper following proper safety procedures. Use an emory grit paper if youdo not have a hone and replace the seals. Just gravity bleed your brakes before bleeding them manualy or with an air bleeder.
#14
I had the same problem. The brakes was normal during the early driving, then the brake pedal got harder and harder to push (15 to 20 minutes driving) until the car looks like loosing its power. I had to stop 30 minutes so the car can move again. And the problem recurring again.
I checked booster, master cylinder, pipe lines but everything seem normal. Until i read in the internet that the problem might be in the vacuum. There's a hose connecting the booster and the alternator. I opened the clip, released the hose with engine still running, i checked whether the vacuum pump was working (it sucked air) then i plugged back the hose. Taraaaaaaaa
The problem gone forever. There was a trapped air between the booster and vacuum pump that caused the brakes (front) sticking and dragging.
Hope it helps
Hilux surf 2lte. 2.4 diesel.
I checked booster, master cylinder, pipe lines but everything seem normal. Until i read in the internet that the problem might be in the vacuum. There's a hose connecting the booster and the alternator. I opened the clip, released the hose with engine still running, i checked whether the vacuum pump was working (it sucked air) then i plugged back the hose. Taraaaaaaaa
The problem gone forever. There was a trapped air between the booster and vacuum pump that caused the brakes (front) sticking and dragging.
Hope it helps
Hilux surf 2lte. 2.4 diesel.
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