2ToyGuy

[QUOTE]Which brings me to this question — I see two options for replacement. The CSF 2314 which is popular here, or OE. I found a local dealer that has the OE radiator in stock for about $280. I think it’s two core, vs. the three core of the CSF (which can be had for about $210), but I’ve heard of some quality issues with the CSF. I’m leaning towards OE at this point... Anyone have an opinion? [/QUOTE]
IMHO, for whatever it's worth, I would go with the CSF.
I had 3 core, all metal, radiators in both trucks. I used to live in Yuma, AZ. It's down in that little notch where Arizona, California, and Mexico all meet. W had to go north to get to California. I was less than 1/4 mile from Mexico, on my property. Anywho, we used to consider a 100° evening a nice, cool evening. Hell, maybe turn off the AC and open the windows if it got down that low.
Those 3 cores kept the trucks running down between 1/4 and 1/2 on the gauges.

Having said that, the one in the 4Runner DID blow the top tank off one day, while under-weigh. Maybe 20-25 years after I bought it. The radiator, I mean. The one in the pickup is STILL working fine, now 30 some years into owning the 3 core. I don't know the manufacturer of my radiators any more. Heck, I slept since I bought them. Once or twice, anyway. If the CSF are any way nearly as good, I think they're well worth the investment.

There my 2 cents...
Pat☺

Jimkola

The typical procedure we followed bitd regarding 22R# coolant/temp etc
1) check for signs of external leaks. No leaks then....
2) block test and pressure test. Passed, then...
3)remove thermostat, test, and replace. Then....(therm almost was never the issue, btw)
4)remove radiator and flow test at radiator shop. Rod out or replace. Rod out is probably a dead art nowadays.

I’d get the OEM radiator over CSF without a second thought.

Awaters54

I recently bought a 1990 Toyota pickup efi when I drive about 500 miles I lose about 3oZ of coolant notice the loss was around the radiator cap. Took it to the shop to have belts replace, new cap and check head gasket.
they said head gasket is fine issue was bad radiator cap. 500 miles later coolant loss from cap again replaced the thermostat, flushed the coolant system, burped the system of air bubbles.

now another 500 miles later I still have to add 3-6 oZ of coolant to reservoir. When I open the hood after driving on the freeway for about 45 mins I will notice small amounts of coolant on the top radiator hose and air intake hose as if you put water on your hands and flick it on the bathroom mirror. the truck does not over heat, no white smoke from tail pipe, no visible leaks at idle. Looks small amounts at high RPM’s

has anyone experienced this? Could this be a failing water pump?

swampedout

Have you replaced all your hoses and clamps?

Awaters54

I haven’t replaced my hoses that will be my next step as I was thinking maybe a pin hole leak when under pressure

Jimkola

Maybe the weep hole on the underside of the water pump? When it seeps the fan blade flings it up and around. You’ll need a mirror to see, but if it was seeping it’s pretty obvious

br549arkie

I would check the water pump closely. Look at or feel the water pump where the shaft goes into the water pump front housing also check the weep hole.

jay4runner

if your issue is coolant getting into the oil (and maybe a bit the other way as well) and you are driving a 22RE then maybe you need to check those timing chain guides. They break off at the bottom allowing the chain to rub against the inside of the timing chain cover. Eventually a groove is warn deep enough that coolant starts pumping into the oil. Many think it is a head gasket, however, it is a worn through time chain cover that allows coolant and oil to mix. It isn't that difficult to check if this is the problem - remove valve cover and using a flashlight have a look down along the outside of the chain on the driver side - you will see what is going on.