Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Odin has some great info... I like to put a thin coat of antisieze on my plug threads. With the steel plugs going into an aluminum head, two different metals automatically start fighting each other. I have pulled some plugs in older trucks and have been surprised not to see some thread damage to the heads.

Odin

There's a long standing debate over whether to use anti seize or not.
Alot of people like to use a little anti seize on the threads of spark plugs including some ASE mechanics. However all of the spark plug manufacturers say not to add any stating their plugs come with a thin anti seize treatment on them.


Most of the stripped thread problems I've seen come from over torqued plugs, plugs being left in way way passed their recommended service interval, or plugs installed into dirty threads. In time oil, fuel, and carbon deposits on the threads hardens up and can cause problems. It's a good reason to fix a leaking valve cover gasket when you see it.

If a wrench is needed to do more than break the old plug loose those spark plug threads need to have a spark plug thread chaser ran through them to clean out the deposits. At the same time, if I need a wrench to get the plug seated the threads need the chaser too.
If I have to chase one hole I'm doing all of them.

osv

i used to work on aircooled vw motors a lot, and you had to use antiseize back then, the heads ran a lot hotter, and spark plug technology wasn't what it is today.

i still put a very thin coat of antiseize on the 22re plugs, i can't help myself, even tho the plug manufacturers say that you don't have to.

spark plugs are heat sinks, they pull heat out of the combustion chamber and i guess sink it back into the head... antiseize is an insulator, so it blocks that heat sinking to some minor degree.

Odin

Some info from a previous post:


Porsche used to recommend using anti seize on the spark plugs that went into their 911 engines. They have stopped recommending it because of grounding problems. Porsche Technical Bulletin 9102, Group 2, identifier 2870
https://books.google.com/books?id=OB...202870&f=false


Wells VIDEO information on problems using anti seize on spark plugs

IF people chose to use it they should apply it "lightly".
By lightly I mean when you remove them you almost can't tell it's been applied.
I don't use it much myself on aluminum heads as I'd rather stick to factory torque specifications and interchange schedules. The longer you leave them in there the higher the chance of carbon and gunk being on the bottom of the plug. When you remove a carboned up plug it can eat up or open the threads making the plug fit looser or if it's real bad take your threads out.






Here's the NGK bulletin on it:
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...1antisieze.pdf
Tech Bulletin - Anti-Seize Compounds on Spark Plug Threads

Topic
The use of anti-seize compounds on spark plug threads that have a metal shell plating (i.e. Zinc or Nickel plating).

Issue
Applying anti-seize to the threads of spark plugs that have a metal plating allows the installer to mistakenly over-tighten the spark plug in the cylinder head; This stretches and fatigues the threads of the spark plugs, causing a much higher probability that the plug will break during installation or in some cases upon removal.
Example of 10mm thread spark plug broken during installation due to the use of anti-seize leading to over-tightening. (Note that plug gasket has been completely compressed, anti-seize can be seen on threads, and the break is in the direction of tightening).

Solution
For spark plugs with special metal plating simply do not use anti-seize on initial Installation; All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with a special trivalent Zinc-chromate shell plating that is designed to prevent both corrosion and seizure to the cylinder head; Thus eliminating the need for any thread compounds or lubricants.

Additional Information
NGK recommends only using spark plugs with metal plating on all aluminum head applications to prevent damage to the head and plug. Metal shell plating acts as a “lubricant� which breaks away from the main body of the spark plug during removal, preventing damage to the spark plug and or threads in the cylinder head.








Summary
All spark plugs that have a blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against seizing or bonding to the cylinder head and so it is with these spark plugs that anti-seize would be required. A spark plug that has a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicates that the plug is manufactured with metal shell plating and therefore will not require anti-seize."

millball

I am no expert on spark plug grounding problems, or temperature gradient issues, but there must be some anti-seize compounds that conduct well enough to satisfy both issues.

Anti-seize material is not any one simple substance.

Looking thru my cabinet I find: nickel based, graphite based, copper based, lead based, teflon based, and aluminum based anti-seize materials, As well as good ole Never-Seez brand which is copper/aluminum based.

Each one supposedly specially suited for use with different material combinations and different temperature ranges.

Mostly, I use the Never-Seez.

I guess I'll have to look into this spark plug business more deeply..

Odin

Exactly, most plug manufacturers use a form of Zinc or Nickel plating.
I figured because the plug manufacturers went with nickel and Ford went with nickel on their problem child engines..
If I was going to use anti seize on plugs on an aluminum head Nickel is what I would use.

Aaaand because of some say graphite isn't good with aluminum then I'd get something without it.
I found Nuclear Grade Nickle Anti Seize was going to be about the best but the price is a bit too high for my liking. I then found
Rectorseal Nickel Rich Anti Seize - Contains no lead, copper, graphite, chlorides, or other halogens, phosphorous, or silicones.
http://www.rectorseal.com/web-media/dsnicklrch.pdf


You brought up the use of different compounds in anti seize and there are different theories on that too. Mainly the use of copper and graphite on aluminum.

Look at post #6 on this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...une-up-283994/
Yes I'm a nut.

Odin

.....

Regency

Truck is down now. Waiting for time and money so i can just tear it down and just go through everything. 22RE Performance has the Toyota OEM gasket set for a decent price so im going that route unless i can get my local dealer to give me a better deal.
While its tore apart i will be doing the clutch also.
Basically just re-gasket the engine along with waterpump and timing chain.

Odin

Do your research on the hydraulic parts, Aisin is the way to go.
Hard parts good results vary with STOCK, Marlincrawler, and Luk.

Regency

Was planning to go with Marlincrawler for all the clutch parts. Also planned on a Aisin waterpump, NGK plugs, gasket set from 22re performance and also their stainless freeze plugs.
Doing a new radiator and plug wires also, that I have not decided yet what to use.

Also will maybe have the head milled and install a small cam to help get this little motor moving.