Going to pick up my autozone switch this afternoon. If it doesn't hold up I am going to rebuild my factory one per HappyAdventure's guide.

 

I did the same thing to my mother's corolla years ago... the contacts got hot enough to melt the plastic and the plastic coated the contacts making the switch useless

the copper didn't wear out, so I just cleaned it off real well with sand paper, put it back together and it worked

 

Thanks for the tip on the AutoZone part. I'm having the same problem with my switch - completely dead - and winter's comin...

 

If your factory harness plug is fried like mine was and don't want to go the soldering route some .110 22-18ga connectors shrink wrapped make a nice pig tail...

 

I have a '92 4Runner that I'm parting the better parts into my '93. I've been trying to remove the Heater Blower Fan Switches out of both vehicles, per your instructions. But without forcing the switch out, I can't get either one out. Is there some kind of plastic latch holding them from sliding? Do I need to push them back towards the engine harder?

 

I have a new switch, but what steps do I need to take to get to the damned thing? How much of the dash do I need to remove and in what order? This thing is like a maze!

 

I just replaced the blower resistor and my fan still doesn't work . After reading these posts I deduced that it was the fan switch. Took that out and it wasn't burned. A little discoloration in the plug from the wire harness. But not burned/ melted. Now what ??
I wanted to ask you folks before I bought a new switch. Could the switch just go bad without showing signs of melting / overheating???

Please help
Dave

 

Are you sure the heater relay works? http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2aircondi.pdf

More importantly, the heater fan is electrical, it not working is an electrical problem, and to find an electrical problem you must use a multimeter. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html Changing a $100 part just on a hope it might work is usually a waste of $100. Use your multimeter and schematic to find the problem, then start replacing parts.

 

What is the heater relay?? I went off other threads stating that most fan problems are due to the resistor. That is why I replaced it. QUOTE=scope103;52224351]Are you sure the heater relay works? http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2aircondi.pdf

More importantly, the heater fan is electrical, it not working is an electrical problem, and to find an electrical problem you must use a multimeter. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html Changing a $100 part just on a hope it might work is usually a waste of $100. Use your multimeter and schematic to find the problem, then start replacing parts.[/QUOTE]

 

ditto this...

 

I need help on a similar matter - my fan does not operate on a 1995 4Runner. Several years ago, it began making a chattering noise on cold mornings and then earlier this spring it began operating only on the two highest settings a couple of times and then fully quit within about three minutes. Finally it just would not start. I believe I have checked the correct fuse for heater, the fan works fine (without noises) when jumped to the battery, the multimeter shows about the same resistance on the various resistor positions as a new resistor (ceramic enclosed part), and he switch shows no heat damage (the grease is even present and clean and the copper is not corroded). What am I missing? The parts lady at the stealer tells me the looks and tests of the various parts is not important but that I should buy the parts and try them. The stealer's service people don't seem to have any bright ideas either. At least they will give a look at the various parts and service publications, but not seeing anything there.
BTW - I can't see the photos on this write-up but the description was a help. Thanks.

 

Here's another copy of the link from my 2014 post: http://web.archive.org/web/201102052...g/25heater.pdf

My advice to you is the same. You have the multimeter, keep using it. The parts lady is absolutely right about the first part; the electrons don't care what your switch (relay, resistor) looks like.

The heater fuse is in the high (12v) side between the motor and the relay. Pull out the fuse (check it when it's out!); with key-on the relay should close and you'll have 12v on one of the two socket pins. If not, pull the relay and follow the manual to test it. If you have 12v all the way TO the motor, you must have an open ground-side (which goes through resistor and switch.)

The parts lady is, sadly, wrong about the second part. If you worked as a tech at that dealership, she'd probably let you take the part and just plug it in to see if it worked. If no change, she'd put it back on the shelf. But once she sells an electrical part to you, she will NOT take it back. (Would you want to buy a part that had gone out the door and came back?)

 

Duck tape, it fixes all.

 

On 92 runner, blower fan switch lever is completely stuck/frozen in the off position.

 

So the price has increased about $10 over the past 9 years. Also that part number link from 2011 is no longer good. New link: https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...340/486379_0_0