All shocks have oil. Some have nitrogen too. Shocks are viscous dampers and their damping force is a function of velocity or how fast you try to compress the shock.

Nitrogen can do two things. In many cases it cools the shock. It gets compressed into an external canister or into part of the shock that would normally not take part much in heat rejection. The cooler gas returns to the shock on extension to absorb more heat.

The other thing is it changes the shocks response by modifying the rebound damping response. Lots of gas charging means the shock will try harder to keep wheels on the ground often and the expense of a stiffer ride. I'll pick on Deotsch Tech since they have been in the discussion. You'll notice on their site that the high pressure nitrogen shock is the firmest with the prerunner second and standard 3000 series the softest.

Frank

 

I get you Frank..

What is the stinkin size since you got on the chart for our trucks they claim to be for 3-4" lift? extended/collapsed..

So what do you gain besides travel with BJ's then anyways... If the t-bars are cranked its higher thus you need a longer shock..

I dunno, its getting confusing here. All I want is to find a truck (t100 is no longer going offroad) and lift the front 3" or so and the rear 4" or so. Was gonna do it with the bjs and a slight 1" or so t-bar crank and thats where I run into the problems.. If I add the shocks you recommend my issues is do I get the travel I need?

Sorry for all the confusion and such, I trust your advice but it would really help if I knew what the chart said and all.

 

Ok, I'll check on the +4" specs. I had them on my last truck 'cause it had a 4" lift.

I think I found the source of misunderstanding. If your t-bars are cranked, you don't need a longer shock. They don't determine how far the suspension travels, just how much resistance there is to travel.

You have a stock truck and it is designed with bumpstops to limit the travel. You add spacers you allow the travel to go farther in one direction which means the overall travel is greater. If the shock cannot extend far enough, it becomes the limiting factor which is bad. Since the limits of travel have changed, you need to size the shock accordingly.

To summarize, you have to size the shock based on the travel limits of the front suspension, not where you decide to set the front suspension within those limits. This is of course a different approach than one would take with a solid axle where the shocks limit the droop.

Frank

 

EDIT 2: I purchased PN 317514

I'm not sure of the dimensions or the PN, but i just went to 4WP and ordered PC ES3000s for an 86-95 4Runner with 3-4" of lift.

EDIT: this got pretty confusing, since i didnt see the 2nd page and read it. as CJM said, i havnt had any problems running these shocks. I will try and take on off this weekend to get the Collapsed/Extended measurements.

 

Can you find the p/n? I have their catalog on my computer and you might have some issues with that shock. For example, Procomp lists the +4" (no +3" on their site or catalog) with a collapsed length of 11.52". The stock shock has a collapsed length of 9.25". I'm nearly positive you will find the +4" shock runs out of travel before the LCA hits its bumpstop which will trash the shock.

I have the 317514 (10.58"/17.08") recommended on our website because it has the more slender 1.75" body. However, I speak from experience, you can trim the bumpstop mount to accommodate a larger diameter shock very easily and it is worth the gain in performance.

Frank

 

Gotcha Frank..

So in other words I can do the Bj's and gain 1.5" if I dont relax the t-bar, then I crank the t-bar say at the most 1" and I gained 2.5" or so give or take of overall lift.

The shocks remain the same and I of course shim the bumpstops a bit to compensate for any longer travel then need be.

Oh and FWIW the reason my t100 wont see offroad is I found out just what happens when your shock limits the travel and your bumpstop gets the hit. I managed to bend the drivers side LCA, the pitman arm, and a bunch of other goodies and that DS upper bumpstop took a nice shot. All b/c the shocks were worn out took the hit bad on a washboard... Ya get what I mean, I am worried I could do the same b/c those suspension parts werent cheap and thats with my discount through my shop!

 

Here's some options.

Stock shocks measurements:
Upper Mount:Stem 3/8" x 16
Lower Mount:Loop Type 5/8" x 1 1/2"
Compressed Length:9.250"
Extended length:13.625"
Travel Length:4.375"

Longer front shocks for your 1.5" - 2.5" lift:'85-'96 Suzuki Samari,
Upper Mount:Stem 3/8" x 16
Lower Mount:Loop Type 5/8" x 1 5/16"
Compressed Length:9.625"
Extended length:15.375"
Travel Length:5.750"
Gabriel Pro Guard p.n. 61549 ($21.99@autozone) or Monroe p.n. 59002 ($16.99@checker)
I liked the Gabriels much better.

 

Frank,

How much do I need to worry about the shock dimensions for the rear, the dimensions I order were 13.0"-21.5"? Is this OK with 1.5" lift back there? Also, the part I got for the front is 10.0"-15.5" with your guys spacers. Willt his be OK?

Also, for the rear with that 1.5" lift do I need to do anything for the LPSV?

Thanks, Chris

 

The front shocks you have are fine.

I have to check on the rears, haven't dug into that yet but the dimensions sound correct. The rears need to be in the neighborhood of 4-5" longer than the fronts and yours are.

You can make a new bracket for the valve or just bend the lever a bit. 1.5" isn't a whole lot of lift. I bent mine some and it's good to go, stops fine.

Frank

 

Yes, some adjustment of the rear LSPV sensing are is a good idea to restore the rear braking pressure:



http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#LSPV_Bracket

 

Wow 4crawler,
I'm jealous, your axle, diff, uncarriage in general is a lot cleaner than mine. That's pretty. Thanks for the info. guys I'll have to look at that LSPV.

Chris

 

Oh, that picture was taken right after I installed the new springs and what not on my truck. I cleaned and painted everything underneath when I had it all apart. I don't think it has been anywhere near that clean since

 

At least you're honest. You could have lied. Ha.

Read: I apologize, thread hijack begins here.

Yeah, I'm replacing my rear shocks and coils next week probably, and was thinking of doing all that but the truck is my DD and can't be apart too long to get all that done and now that it's cold out (my garage isn't heated) I'm not sure that any paint would adhere properly anyhow. Do/have you ever used rust converter on under carriage stuff and what do you like to topcoat with? Thanks.

Chris

 

Yea depending on rear lift, any shock thats 3-4" longer should do. In my case my plans call for about 3" in the rear using new leaf packs or chevy rears so 3-4" longer is what I needed and hence why I originally went with 3-4" overall..

I totally appreciate your help Frank, its helped me so much. B/c otherwise I woulda just bought 3-4" all around and found out the hard way. I wonder if the best bet would be to use zuki samarui sized shocks as they fit the bill nicely.

 

For the front, the truth is you have a number of options many of which we've discussed and are on our website. Now I haven't checked if the Sami shocks work for the rear axle but it would be good to know.

If you want the same shocks all around you could just go OME all the way, or like me mix and match if it works best.

Frank

 

The zuk shocks for the front fit the bill I mean. As do several others.

Rears I was thinking of mixing and matching myself..

 

Ok so I have read and reread this thread....but i must admit that I am now more confused. In a recent issue of 4WD Toyota Owner (Volume 3 Number 5 Sept/Oct) they ran an article that show's them installing a BJ Spacer, Longer than stock shackle, and 1" BL.

My confusion is that they ran with Bilstein 5100 Shocks!?!?!? No where did I read that they had to shim the shock's, or did they encounter any trouble. This was on a 1990 Toyota Truck. So what gives?

Can anyone shed some light on this? Anyone from 4WDTO wanna chime in? I'm in the process of emailing them to find out the part numbers for the Bilstein's that they used.

Thanks
-=Morphine=-

 

Well shimming is needed if the shock is to short-aka a factory sized shock.

4" longer shocks are an issue b/c they have to much travel and are 4" longer, you can damage the shock when it comes back down and keeps on going b/c its longer..

Did I get it right Frank?

 

Let's just address the front end only. They instaled the SDORI BJ Spacer and used Bilstein shocks. I understand the concept of shimming but they made no mention of extra steps or concerns when performing the install. Did Bilstein release a new shock?

-=Morphine=-

 

I was talking about the fronts.

Frank @SDORI said the reason you cannot use 3-4" longer shocks is because the downtravel will kill them, basically to long the shock hits and gets crushed.

http://www.sdori.com/theory_of_operation.html