BIG problem with BJ spacer write ups
#21
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yeah your all talk and a whole lot of doing nothing. you make it sound so easy when its really not. "just go with the flow"?! i was just making a freaking point of how much i struggled to do this seemingly "simple" lift and give some other people some pointers on the things that i had to figure out on my own.
dude, it's called "constructive critisism"...
congrats on a job well done though; you got it done and put back together all by your self, and you're in one peice still...
and maybe if you lost the attitude a little you'd have a friend to help you out on projects like this, and then you wouldn't have to do them by yourself...
Last edited by aviator; 09-19-2008 at 12:13 PM.
#22
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Wow, that was really dangerous. There are many writeups on this.
I did it by myself and so have many others. Like said before the first one took awhile and the second one was a breeze.
I jacked up the one side removed the tire and put a jackstand under the front crossmember.
To get the upper arm up, I first put a floor jack right under the bottom balljoint and jacked it up till the arm no longer went up and started lifting the 4runner off the jack stand.
Then I took the stock bottlejack and put it upside down between the upper arm and the top of the bottom bumpstop mount. I used that to crank the arm up off the balljoint. This will get it up plenty high to put a block in there.
Cut the stuff out. I have a 4.5" angle grinder which doesn't fit in there too well, so I put a 4" wheel on it which fit much better.
Put the spacer on, pull the block, and start cranking the bottle jack down slowly and guide it onto the bjspacer and bolts.
Remember the bottle jack trick because you will need it if you ever have to change a cv while you have bjspacers.
I did it by myself and so have many others. Like said before the first one took awhile and the second one was a breeze.
I jacked up the one side removed the tire and put a jackstand under the front crossmember.
To get the upper arm up, I first put a floor jack right under the bottom balljoint and jacked it up till the arm no longer went up and started lifting the 4runner off the jack stand.
Then I took the stock bottlejack and put it upside down between the upper arm and the top of the bottom bumpstop mount. I used that to crank the arm up off the balljoint. This will get it up plenty high to put a block in there.
Cut the stuff out. I have a 4.5" angle grinder which doesn't fit in there too well, so I put a 4" wheel on it which fit much better.
Put the spacer on, pull the block, and start cranking the bottle jack down slowly and guide it onto the bjspacer and bolts.
Remember the bottle jack trick because you will need it if you ever have to change a cv while you have bjspacers.
yeah, i forgot to mention i tried using my bottlejack. did the same thing as when the pipe slipped and flew out. except that the bottlejack hit me. so i said screw this. and did the "seemingly" less dangerous route of the pipe and jack.
#23
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well good job, you want a freeking cookie?
dude, it's called "constructive critisism"...
congrats on a job well done though; you got it done and put back together all by your self, and you're in one peice still...
and maybe if you lost the attitude a little you'd have a friend to help you out on projects like this, and then you wouldn't have to do them by yourself...
dude, it's called "constructive critisism"...
congrats on a job well done though; you got it done and put back together all by your self, and you're in one peice still...
and maybe if you lost the attitude a little you'd have a friend to help you out on projects like this, and then you wouldn't have to do them by yourself...
#24
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because I steel pipe jabbing through my jaw and out the top of my head sounds MUCH more appealing than getting struck by a bottle jack...
#25
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Did you first use a floor jack under the bottom ball joint? I found that it lifts the uca enough that the bottle jack fits in there better and won't slide out. I've done it many times and never had it slip.
#26
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well good job, you want a freeking cookie?
dude, it's called "constructive critisism"...
congrats on a job well done though; you got it done and put back together all by your self, and you're in one peice still...
and maybe if you lost the attitude a little you'd have a friend to help you out on projects like this, and then you wouldn't have to do them by yourself...
dude, it's called "constructive critisism"...
congrats on a job well done though; you got it done and put back together all by your self, and you're in one peice still...
and maybe if you lost the attitude a little you'd have a friend to help you out on projects like this, and then you wouldn't have to do them by yourself...
i might say that i have a slight problem with stuck up losers who think they know everything and like to destroy others with their so called knowledge.
SO DONT TELL ME I HAVE AN ATTITUDE OR HEADS ARE GOING TO ROLL :chainsaw:
haha jk
i went a little crazy right there.
#27
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maybe your bottle jack is different than mine. mines huge at the bottom, it barely fit in there at all cranked all the way down.
#31
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btw ive had my runner for over a year now and i just found out that the seats come up, along with the mirrors folding in.
#32
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like i said before, i dont know why it didnt work, it just didnt. when i put the thing between the UCA and bumpstop and released the jack it just went back to where it was before.
#34
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i used a pressure treated piece of 2x6. it didnt do anything to the piece of wood. just put the UCA back to where it was.
#35
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i was thinking about doing the BJ spacers, but haven t decided yet. what exactly are you guys grinding on? and why is there not a long travel kit for less then 4k$.(complete that is) TC offers theirs but you have to buy some other stuff thats required to install it. WTF mate. BTW great thread
#39
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All rude and assinine posting aside, I too had an issue with the wood.
I had to use a block of metal, and place it where the punch is in the picture above. I found that putting anything on the bump stop was a waste of time because it just smooshed the bumpstop. Putting metal on metal seemed to help a lot.
I had a great deal of difficulty with the BJ's as well because one of my cam bolts was frozen. This is the bolt that attaches the LCA to the frame, and because of that, I could not move the LCA more than a few inches. It made the one side very difficult.
The other side was faster because I figured out the metal trick, and also the LCA swung down almost 6 inches.
When you take the truck in for an alignment, find someone who knows what they are doing, and have them tell you if any of the cam bolts are frozen. These are a real PITA, and will prevent the alignment from being done properly.
I say find someone who knows what they are doing because often times at these places (jiffy lube or firestone, etc), you have idiots who just push the buttons and turn the wrenches, and don't actually know whats going on.
I had to use a block of metal, and place it where the punch is in the picture above. I found that putting anything on the bump stop was a waste of time because it just smooshed the bumpstop. Putting metal on metal seemed to help a lot.
I had a great deal of difficulty with the BJ's as well because one of my cam bolts was frozen. This is the bolt that attaches the LCA to the frame, and because of that, I could not move the LCA more than a few inches. It made the one side very difficult.
The other side was faster because I figured out the metal trick, and also the LCA swung down almost 6 inches.
When you take the truck in for an alignment, find someone who knows what they are doing, and have them tell you if any of the cam bolts are frozen. These are a real PITA, and will prevent the alignment from being done properly.
I say find someone who knows what they are doing because often times at these places (jiffy lube or firestone, etc), you have idiots who just push the buttons and turn the wrenches, and don't actually know whats going on.
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