Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Exterior Guides
- Toyota 4Runner 1984-1995 How to Rust Proof Undercarriage
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Exterior Guides
best way to rust proof your undercarriage
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 884
Likes: 0
From: nanaimo British Columbia Canada
best way to rust proof your undercarriage
its getting a bit warmer these days and im thinking of spraying the whole undercarriage and protect it from rust. what do you guys recommend? i was thinking rubberized undercoating or rust paint.
#2
Rust paint is ok, but it does flake off/ chip etc. Rust bullet or POR15 is good, but its expensive. I think with rust paint, you'll want to touch up the chips every year or so, but other than that, its probably alright.
Cleaning the mud, dirt, salt off is a very good idea. Make sure the drain holes arn't plugged
Cleaning the mud, dirt, salt off is a very good idea. Make sure the drain holes arn't plugged
#3
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 884
Likes: 0
From: nanaimo British Columbia Canada
yeah, i got to clean up the whole truck. the undercarriage is coated with mud, the body is muddy. i used rubberized undercoating on my other truck to make it look good but now im worried about the rust eating through the frame and body.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
I live in the RUST BELT.. BEST way to spot rust dead is every spring just when it warms up wash all the salt off and then go get KROWN rust proofing done.. it displaces waters and is maintenance for your cars body.. seriously this WORKS 100 bucka a year. keep everything nice and lubed..o and wash your truck ever week in the winter.. get the salt off..
#11
KROWN WILL STOP IT!! it soaks in its made for the rust belt.
www.krown.ca
www.krown.ca
#12
KROWN WILL STOP IT!! it soaks in its made for the rust belt.
www.krown.ca
www.krown.ca
#13
hahaha just am a huge dan since i have seen cars used it since new now 15 years and they LOOK MINT.. like no rust...
my jdm hilux has gotten it and still look as good as when it leaft the factory in 91....
only thing they give me is a calender and a phone call to remind me my yearly appt is due!
my jdm hilux has gotten it and still look as good as when it leaft the factory in 91....
only thing they give me is a calender and a phone call to remind me my yearly appt is due!
#14
I started this post...havn't updated it...i have a few more things i got done painting that i need to post some pics up of. Thread has some interesting info and suggestions though, you should read it...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/s...25/index2.html
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/s...25/index2.html
#15
The key to rust proofing is in the prepping of the metal. You need to sand down to bare metal and prime it with a good oil, xylene or epoxy base prime and paint. You could clean it up good and coat it with the rust converter as well but in the long run it will come back. Use a paint that has a gloss sheen to it. This will seal it good and not allow mud to adhere as much as flat finish paint. I use the Rustoleum Hammer finish Xylene based paint. The spray can is like 7 bux here in Hawaii and the quart can is a lot more (I forget the cost). They come in black but it looks more like a dark grey color so you might want to test an area first. Read the directions as well. I think it said to put a second coat within 4 hours of the 1st coat. Once you put a coat and let it dry you'll see why it protects the metal. The sun and salt air here in Hawaii tends to kill the gloss finish in two years so you may want to recoat those areas. Some one also told me that they coat their under carriage with WD40 so mud won't stick, but I personally havn't tried it.
#16
I usually fill the frame with cheap gear lube twice a year... of course placing an oil pan below the drain holes over night. After an extensive rinsing of the inside of the frame.
Last edited by lftd_86_yota; 03-27-2009 at 09:15 PM.
#17
Listen - I will make this EXTREMELY EASY for you and I will SAVE YOU MONEY AND TIME.
Instead of coating it, painting it, sanding it, etc, which is time consuming, messy, and costly with various rust paints, plus it's not guaranteed to last or work do this:
Go out and buy 6-8 Aerosol cans of (Eureka) Fluid Film. Most Auto parts places carry it. Their website is http://www.fluid-film.com
This stuff IS the real deal (and I do NOT make and $$$ for posting this nor do I own stocks on the company).
What you do is pressure wash your undercarriage, preferabily on a lift (or get someone to do it for you). Let it dry. Then coat the entire undercarriage with this stuff. The fluid film is essentially WD40 on steroids. It will work on any surface rust effectively removing it (it removes oxidation), as well as displacing water and protecting the frame, sheet metal, and any other metal parts you choose to spray.
Do this once a year and your frame will look like new. In fact, in rainy Vancouver BC where I live, I still see fluid film patches that are still slightly wet even after a year when I go and do it the next time.
I also recently just invested in a case of Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal protector which I will use the next time I do my annual treatment instead of the fluid film just becuase it's cheaper than the fluid film and I have a wholesale account with Amsoil. So far I've sprayed a few things with it and it beads water very well and lasts a long time so I think I'll see as good of results with the Amsoil stuff as the Fluid film.
Anyways - best of luck with whatever you go with but keep in mind I was in the same dilemna as you and I dreaded the idea of painting the undercarriage with anything mainly because of how messy it is, how much $$$ rust paints tend to cost, and the fact that if you paint over something, some of the rust paints may seal water in if they are not fully done properly which can further the rust/corrossion instead of prevent it.
Instead of coating it, painting it, sanding it, etc, which is time consuming, messy, and costly with various rust paints, plus it's not guaranteed to last or work do this:
Go out and buy 6-8 Aerosol cans of (Eureka) Fluid Film. Most Auto parts places carry it. Their website is http://www.fluid-film.com
This stuff IS the real deal (and I do NOT make and $$$ for posting this nor do I own stocks on the company).
What you do is pressure wash your undercarriage, preferabily on a lift (or get someone to do it for you). Let it dry. Then coat the entire undercarriage with this stuff. The fluid film is essentially WD40 on steroids. It will work on any surface rust effectively removing it (it removes oxidation), as well as displacing water and protecting the frame, sheet metal, and any other metal parts you choose to spray.
Do this once a year and your frame will look like new. In fact, in rainy Vancouver BC where I live, I still see fluid film patches that are still slightly wet even after a year when I go and do it the next time.
I also recently just invested in a case of Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal protector which I will use the next time I do my annual treatment instead of the fluid film just becuase it's cheaper than the fluid film and I have a wholesale account with Amsoil. So far I've sprayed a few things with it and it beads water very well and lasts a long time so I think I'll see as good of results with the Amsoil stuff as the Fluid film.
Anyways - best of luck with whatever you go with but keep in mind I was in the same dilemna as you and I dreaded the idea of painting the undercarriage with anything mainly because of how messy it is, how much $$$ rust paints tend to cost, and the fact that if you paint over something, some of the rust paints may seal water in if they are not fully done properly which can further the rust/corrossion instead of prevent it.
#19
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 9
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Hey Scott, how much is that amsoil stuff? I really need to address the frame and drivetrain this summer. I need to paint the front end, front frame and the rear axle. Was going to do the whole thing..
I would like to try that stuff out once im done, added protection right...
I would like to try that stuff out once im done, added protection right...
#20
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 9
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada