imtxn

1989 sb truck! syncro between 1st & 2nd went. Bought 1990 with good body and drive train, but lousy chasis. Switched out body & gas tank, engine & trany, and harness to 1989 frame, JSYK, I am extremely anal. The detail and prep was performed to the best of my ability. Used per directions POR 15 and POR rust neutralizer to preserve frame and body. 3 months later, RUST is all ready showing on cross pieces of frame. I Undercoated and covered the back of the cab between cab and bed with Herculiner after the POR 15. That looks OK now.

Any opinions about RUST PREVENTION, products & Procedures. One thing I didn't know to do was to scour off the white ลลลล left from the phosphoric acid in the POR Neutralizer. Me

harpen123

I like this OSPHO stuff its green and really acidic. You spray it on the rust and let it dry it turns silver and then you paint over it.

vwfastg60

I have had really good luck with the sheap rust converter from Walmart. Its black spray can.

When i do it tho i take a wire wheel or a grinder to it to get as much as i can off. I Did a bay in a gti with it.W had media blasted it and it sat out for a year bare so i took a wire wheel to it and shot it with the converter fallowing the instructions.

Heres the bay a year later....still waiting on motor stuff but nothing coming back. after sitting forever. I guess thats a good thing.


The only problem i found is if you dont seal it well enough after your spray it and sand it then it will bleed through the sealer like my battery tray did in my 4runner yesterday.

imtxn

The sheap converter is new to me, will goto Wallmart to check it out. I live in Hawaii and work in the worst enviroment possible for rust. We have used Ospho many times, but it has always failed. I read somewhere to use a scrubby to get rid of the white powery stuff left from the Phosphoric acid berore you paint over it. I used to use LPS 500 inhibitors on metal at work, a/c's and motors. This was really great stuff, but not for automotive application. un fortunately no longer availiable. Esthetically YUCK!! it leaves a thick film which does protect, but collects grime, & etc. We have also tried Proceon a product used in the aircraft industry with the same results. A guy from Consolidated Labs is trying to sell me their product. Am wondering now if any of you might have tried it? He claimes it converts the rust to a polimer.

MMA_Alex

Im suprised you had issues with por-15. The only time i've ever heard of it rusting through is on marine applications like engine mounts in bilges that are constantly floating in saltwater and other crap, and even there it lasts several years.

There are other cheap spray on products on the market. I've used two that I can remember, but I cant remember the names.

One was a gray "rustproof primer" that goes on in one coat. I found that even with paint over it it starts to bubble in about 6 months when painted over rust. The other one was a black primer, but it is painted in like 10 thin coats. I used that to paint a completely rusted steel trailer hitch plate, and it lasted over a year with no paint over it before the thin spots on the edge started to rust through it. I believe I purchased both at Advance Auto Parts

Your best bet when dealing with rust is a grinder because paints just hide the rust, and slow it down.

Im taking the grinder to some spots on my truck this spring, and then painting the bare metal with por-15. I have some rust along the bottom of the doors which I intend to fix this way.

rdharper

Rust is FeO2, one Iron and two oxygen. In order for rust to occur, bare iron/steel must be exposed to air/oxygen. You can not get rust if you prevent oxygen from getting to exposed metal.

4runnerx3

I sandblast rust, then use metal etching primer from NAPA. For small areas I use a speedblaster, looks like a gravity feed spray gun. It hold about 2 pounds of sand.

SteelHound

tellin ya best stuff hands down is CHASSI SAVER, it dries hard as a rock and does not chip scratch, I highly recommend, you will never find anything like this. Check at your local car shop.
they have blk, silver and a few other colors and comes in flat gloss and satin, I used satin and I think thats the best to use.
Be aware that you must were gloves and old cloths when you use this, and it will not come off your skin for a week, and no paint thinner doesnt work they make a special thinner for it.

http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

mt_goat

Yeah I remember the body cancer when I was on your islands. Salt water spray is really bad. That's why testing for industrial coatings are measured in salt spray hours.

Sand blasting is the best prep for rust prevention period. It removes all the old rust and leaves little pits for the new coating to grab into. The draw back is you may not have much metal left afterward and you will have to paint quickly after blasting because new rust will form before you get it coated.

Look into a marine epoxy paint made by Dupont, I can't remember the name now but IIRC it would withstand about 1000 hours of salt spray testing before rust would form.

4runnerx3

I've also used this stuff, Rust Encapsulator by Eastwood, on my Datsun Z-car.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=1130

mtrdrms

I have had really good luck with POR-15. I've had it on the frame of Chevy for 3 years now and it still looks new. Its expensive but tough as nails and looks good too.
http://www.por15.com/

rhah

I'd save your money on POR-15. I think it is completly overrated. I fell into that mindset that this POR-15 is the best stuff out there...blah..blah.. When I bought it at a High End Vechile Accessories Store I asked the owner, who I do not know, and he thinks..he goes " it ant what it's crank'd up to be".
It's one of those things you find your own truth to, so I bought it.

I completly had both rear and front end of my vechile in my basement. I refinished every part I took off except for the ones I planned on testing with POR-15. I cleaned up my rear axle and other larger parts, removing scally rust but leave the surface rust so i can apply that $20 POR primer... after about 30 min primer did what it was supposed to and completly frost over white. I apllied that POR-15 and followed the directions to a tee. When it cured I thought it was decent. Doesn't look any different than a High Gloss Tremclad or Rustolum but it's supposed to be tough. The other parts that I removed and painted I jsut used your Rustolum High Gloss Paint making sure I only applied as thick or maybe thiner then that of the POR. I also did certin parts of my frame while it was compleltly appart in my driveway. When I finally got the safety for my 4Runner and it was road worthly the 'usage' test began.

I use my yoat very serious in the bush like most you guys plus it's my daily driver. With all the ?…?…?…?… kickin my 4Runner takes running gravel roads a 5 days a week and the prospecing I do in the bush I was not at all impressed with this POR-15. With this magical $20 primer and $45 urine sample size of a container a High Gloss $17 gallon Rustolum held up the same and if not better on road ware areas. Also POR-15 softens when seasonally covered in Salt and esp calcium. In Northern Ontario the roads during the winter are disgustly covered in salt and mid winter I can scrap it off with a Putty Knife w/ not much effort. This POR-15 is very "enviroment spefic". I won't not use POR-15...not for that amount of money. Theres no Final Solution to rust, jsut hard work and replacement.

....Just my $0.02

fork

hot thread. I am also interested in figuring out how to prevent rust better. I also live in hawaii I don't know if it helps at all but I pressure wash my undercarriage and engine compartment all the time. It might be hurting it, I don't know. but it gets the mud off and i know mud definitely hurts after a while. I put new shocks on my truck in july 05 and theyre already rusty. i wish it was as easy as spraying a bunch of used oil all over but that cant be good either

rhah

I use a very light grade oil, put it in one of those Weedkiller/Pesticide hand pressurized sprayers you can get at Wal-Mart and undercoat and spray in my doors and anywhere else with that. Mud and all other road crap just falls off and is the best Rust Pervention for the buck.

CJM

Honestly I have used rustoleum on all sorta of stuff, it always works damn well.

I have a small utility cart for the lawnmower that was surface rusted completly out-it wasnt deep just covered about 75% of the thing. I wired wheeled the entire thing, then I took rustoleum rust primer and primed it with 2 coats then painted it with rustoleum paint and no rust 8 years later and we used it in the winter, let it stand with waterin it for about a month, etc.

I am gonna do some touch up to my frame and I am gonna use rustoleum.

fork

what's the downside?

rhah

Only downside is that you have to find someone elses drive way to do it. I say do it in the bush by I might stir some kind of massive 'Greenpeace, Funding someonebad...,Globalwarming, Magnetic Pole Shifting, Bird Immigration Changing, Shifting Tectonite Plate, Bush is a (insert here whatever you want, i'd like to have a beer with him personnally), GOD I LOVE THE SMELL OF HIGHOCTANE uprising"


No downside that I can think of. It doesn't weaken paint disovlve or break rubber down. It seeps into the smallest of crevisis and is dirt cheap. I'm sure some of you guys heard of Rust Check and some undercoating "solutions". Either Shops will apply it or you can buy the aerosole version...well the orginal 'Rust Check' was simple Automatic Transmission fluid sprayed on the undercarriage and anyhere else on your vechile. This along with any other type of oil had be used for years until someone figured they can make money off this simple service. Auto Tranny fluid is a extremly light oil and dirt cheap. It seeps everywhere possible which is the most benifical factor of this oil. I've use it to break free big Cat Diesel Engines when they have been siezed buy pouring through intake and leting sit.

dcg9381

Zincoxide primer... After cleaning and removing rust. Dupont product.

imtxn

Thanks for the opinions folks!! We bought a 1/2 case of the consolidated labs stuff. I cleaned and applied it to a blower we have at work, will let time do its thing and let you guys know. Me