Best rust inhibitor?
10-12-2020, 11:24 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Best rust inhibitor?
Hey, I have a 1990 Pickup and i live in Nebraska where salt is used to de-ice and really rusts out vehicles. I got my pickup from montana and there was virtually no rust when i got it in 2016. Rust has developed on the frame and chassis in general and i'd like it to not end up like the newer tacomas. My father has tried POR-15 on his 87 but the rust seems to always make its way through. Does anyone have any experience with rust inhibitors or any brands you guys swear by? I can provide pictures if needed.
Thanks a bunch.
Thanks a bunch.
10-13-2020, 12:49 AM
#2
I prefer Fluid Film:
https://www.fluid-film.com/
https://www.fluid-film.com/
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10-13-2020, 10:52 AM
#4
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I have had no luck with POR-15. It is a durable coating but the problem is if any rust gets behind it, the moisture is trapped behind the coating and it actually makes it rust faster. It would probably work great if you could dip the whole frame in it, but if there is any exposed edge, or it gets scratched, it's worse than nothing at all.
I'd recommend against any sort of hard or rubberized coating like that because moisture that gets behind it cannot get out.
What I recommend is any oil based inhibitor. Fluid Film is my choice too.
I'd recommend against any sort of hard or rubberized coating like that because moisture that gets behind it cannot get out.
What I recommend is any oil based inhibitor. Fluid Film is my choice too.
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old87yota (10-14-2020)
10-13-2020, 01:29 PM
#6
Back in the good old days I had some friends that applied used motor oil all over their vehicles, going back to the 50's! Some added kerosene so it would seep into crevices. One guy by the name of Bob had a Ford pickup which was a daily driver, 25 years old and not a spec of rust in Buffalo NY, the heart of the rust belt.
I am sure getting caught using old oil would bring a huge fine. So I am in the Fluid Film camp. The downside to FF is it needs to be reapplied every year or so. FF can be put on one side of leaf springs and in a week it will seep through to the other side!
Por 15 is great product. How would you do the inside of a frame or inside anything with it??
I am sure getting caught using old oil would bring a huge fine. So I am in the Fluid Film camp. The downside to FF is it needs to be reapplied every year or so. FF can be put on one side of leaf springs and in a week it will seep through to the other side!
Por 15 is great product. How would you do the inside of a frame or inside anything with it??
10-13-2020, 01:44 PM
#7
same with fluid film. i apply it every autumn. no way i'd expect it to last longer than a year, thus the retreatments. this year, i bought a 5 gallon pail and a sprayer kit to use with my compressor, rather than use the aerosol cans of FF. much cheaper, and better coverage. coated the dodge on sunday.
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5 Fists (10-13-2020)
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10-13-2020, 02:02 PM
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Oil based is the way to go.
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old87yota (10-14-2020)
10-13-2020, 02:32 PM
#9
They make long wands with 360 degree spray heads just for this, but even so, I would not recommend POR-15. If you don't get 100% coverage, like on lap joints, or around screws, or behind parts that are bolted to whatever you are coating, or inside a hollow shape, then there is a way for moisture to cause rust. POR-15 is pretty tough stuff, and that means if water gets behind it, then the water will not be able to get out or evaporate. So you end up with rust actually being accelerated. I've tried it, and I regret it.
Oil based is the way to go.
Oil based is the way to go.
10-14-2020, 03:15 PM
#10
sprayed the chassis on #1 '87 today, inside and out, with fluid film. handy having the sprayer for the compressor to apply the "bulk" fluid film from the 5-gal pail. i've used maybe 1.5 quarts to do most of the dump truck and the frame of the runner.
1.5 4runners, 2 volvos, and a camry to go.
beats using 12 to 14 or so 12-oz aerosol cans to do the job.
1.5 4runners, 2 volvos, and a camry to go.
beats using 12 to 14 or so 12-oz aerosol cans to do the job.
Last edited by wallytoo; 10-14-2020 at 03:47 PM.
10-15-2020, 09:33 AM
#11
Registered User
Montana take a look at KBS coatings. They make the gas tank sealing product line that cleans the tank, neutralizes the rust (i.e. a naval jelly phosphate derivative) and then epoxy coats the inside of the gas tank for a complete restoration. When I got my 1973 Jensen Healey the first thing I did was to toss the full length rubber floor mats in the trash only to find that the entire floor pan was damp, orange with rust and a couple of holes were already present in the DS area where your feet reside while driving. After repairing the holes and rebuilding the floor pan under the seat mounting rails, I used the leftover KBS RustBlast product to neutralize the iron oxide on the surfaces from orange to a rather nice black phosphate coating which the phosphate in the RustBlast does to the rust. I then painted the interior sheet metal of the entire car with a silver Hammerite paint from Rustoleum.
KBS also sells an aerosol can with the RustBlaster in it with a tube and radial dispersion nozzle which I have used to treat the inside hollow area of my Jensen's unibody constructed sills under the doors which are hollow like our 4Runners frame. The Rust Blaster unlike navel jelly is a liquid and it will seep into cracks and gaps if the rust hasn't already gotten there? Once that is dry then a paint or some sort of sealer is needed if the steel is showing signs of surface corrosion. Cosmoline is what LandRover uses which makes servicing the undercarriage difficult until you chip it off the painted surfaces and fasteners but it is impact worthy and tough stuff which might prove to be a worthwhile alternative from just paint?
When my family moved from the UK to the USA and growing up in Connecticut in the late 60's my father purchased a brand new white Dodge Coronet station wagon with a posi in the rear end and a set of studded snow tires with wheels for the winter. I remember the freeze plugs in the block failing one year and the entire body areas adjacent to the rear of the wheel wells were completely orange with holes in the body work only after 4 years time. We left the dodge in CT when we moved to California 7 years later. My mom had a beetle and a Fiat 850 both of which rusted to pieces. I could see the road through the floor when I sad in the back seat of the beetle. The 1974 Fiat 124, 4X door sedan (Lada) that we obtained just before we left had a rust free life in CA and became my first car some number of years later as I finish high school. It was a great contrast to see how well a car likes it in CA with the dry climate and no real precipitation to deal with. I so wanted a 131 Super Brava back then with the 2.0 L engine and then I could dream and aspire to FIA group B status because the 80's were ahead!... But instead I traded in the Fiat and I got a brand new 1982 beige 4X4 Long bed Deluxe Hilux ($9,200) with the wing windows and split rear window. The 22R was less than stellar performance as I recall heading out of the dealership with my dad who had graciously co-signed and up the first hill on the way home. It was spotless 16 years later and I had to repaint it because I had polished through the original paint at about year 14 when I finally replaced the windshield because it was so heavily pitted.
KBS also sells an aerosol can with the RustBlaster in it with a tube and radial dispersion nozzle which I have used to treat the inside hollow area of my Jensen's unibody constructed sills under the doors which are hollow like our 4Runners frame. The Rust Blaster unlike navel jelly is a liquid and it will seep into cracks and gaps if the rust hasn't already gotten there? Once that is dry then a paint or some sort of sealer is needed if the steel is showing signs of surface corrosion. Cosmoline is what LandRover uses which makes servicing the undercarriage difficult until you chip it off the painted surfaces and fasteners but it is impact worthy and tough stuff which might prove to be a worthwhile alternative from just paint?
When my family moved from the UK to the USA and growing up in Connecticut in the late 60's my father purchased a brand new white Dodge Coronet station wagon with a posi in the rear end and a set of studded snow tires with wheels for the winter. I remember the freeze plugs in the block failing one year and the entire body areas adjacent to the rear of the wheel wells were completely orange with holes in the body work only after 4 years time. We left the dodge in CT when we moved to California 7 years later. My mom had a beetle and a Fiat 850 both of which rusted to pieces. I could see the road through the floor when I sad in the back seat of the beetle. The 1974 Fiat 124, 4X door sedan (Lada) that we obtained just before we left had a rust free life in CA and became my first car some number of years later as I finish high school. It was a great contrast to see how well a car likes it in CA with the dry climate and no real precipitation to deal with. I so wanted a 131 Super Brava back then with the 2.0 L engine and then I could dream and aspire to FIA group B status because the 80's were ahead!... But instead I traded in the Fiat and I got a brand new 1982 beige 4X4 Long bed Deluxe Hilux ($9,200) with the wing windows and split rear window. The 22R was less than stellar performance as I recall heading out of the dealership with my dad who had graciously co-signed and up the first hill on the way home. It was spotless 16 years later and I had to repaint it because I had polished through the original paint at about year 14 when I finally replaced the windshield because it was so heavily pitted.
10-18-2020, 11:34 AM
#13
Registered User
A leaking front seal will coat the whole under carriage.
I do hope y'all realize I'm joking...
Pat☺
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coopster (10-26-2020)
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jazz1 (10-25-2020)
10-20-2020, 07:45 PM
#15
Registered User
actually, as i've read but don't recall where (maybe bobstheoilguy?), somewhere/when in europe light oil leakage was encouraged if not designed into the vehicle for this purpose. not kidding. just the details fail me at the moment
10-25-2020, 04:17 AM
#16
Napa carries a product called TONY,,same as Fluid Film at a fraction the cost. I have sprayed my vehicles for many years with these products. Just make sure they not oil base. I had to weld panel on truck that had oil base rust protector applied and fire started between panels. Was quick to extinguish but live and learn
I use Shotz gun to spray large areas and have proper spray gun, wand and hoses for spraying inside frame rails, panels etc
I use Shotz gun to spray large areas and have proper spray gun, wand and hoses for spraying inside frame rails, panels etc
